Chevy Astro and GMC Safari Forum banner

Wiggle the key

11K views 46 replies 12 participants last post by  gunbunny119 
#1 ·
I just started have a problem where I have to get the key in just right in the ignition before it will turn and start. After about a month of this I am thinking maybe I should fix it. If I disconnect the Battery will that disable the air bag? I probably need to replace the lock cylinder. Is this a hard job. I am a little worried about some factory security system that I might break.
 
#2 ·
Chiltons says unhook battery ground to disable air bag.I went and looked at my van.They come out different than they used to_Older cars put key in on accesories there a hole put a paper clip it it and tumbler slides out.Any way I hunting now to see how they come apart.
 
#3 ·
I hope this is right .It was listed as being to a 2000 astro I tried for ya IGNITION & KEY ALARM SWITCH ASSEMBLY
Removal & Installation ("S", "T" & New Style "C" & "K" Series
Remove upper and lower steering column trim covers. Disconnect steering column bulkhead connector and slide turn signal and multifunction switch connectors form bulkhead connector.
Using small screwdriver, gently pry retaining clip on key alarm. Rotate alarm switch 1/4 turn, and remove alarm switch. See Fig. 4 . Slide ignition key and alarm switch assembly out of lock module assembly. On New style "C" and "K" series, use Ignition Switch Connector Release Tool (J-42759) to release ignition key alarm assembly.
To install, reverse removal procedure. Tighten screws to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS .
Fig. 4: Removing Ignition & Key Alarm Switch Assembly
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Removal & Installation ("G", "L", "M", "U" & Old Style "C" & "K" Series)
Remove ignition lock cylinder. See LOCK CYLINDER (FUNCTIONAL) . Remove upper and lower steering column trim covers. Disconnect steering column bulkhead connector and slide turn signal and multifunction switch connectors form bulkhead connector.
Using small screwdriver, gently pry retaining clip on key alarm. Rotate alarm switch 1/4 turn, and remove alarm switch. See Fig. 4 . On "U" series, pull PASS-Key(R) off of lock module assembly. On all models, remove 2 key alarm switch mounting screws. Remove ignition and key alarm switch assembly.
To install, reverse removal procedure. Tighten ignition switch mounting screw and key alarm switch screws to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS .
LOCK CYLINDER (FUNCTIONAL)
Removal & Installation
Disconnect negative battery cable. Position steering wheel half way between upper and lower tilt stops. Remove steering wheel. See STEERING WHEEL . Roll back shift lever seal from upper and lower steering column trim covers. Remove tilt wheel lever. Remove lower steering column trim cover. Remove screws retaining upper trim cover. Lift trim cover to gain access to lock cylinder access hole.
Hold ignition switch in START position. Using a bent tip awl, push on lock cylinder retaining pin. Release ignition switch to RUN position, and pull lock cylinder set from lock module assembly. See Fig. 5 .
To install, insert key into lock cylinder and turn to RUN position. Ensure sector in lock module assembly is in RUN position. Insert lock cylinder into lock module. Align locking and positioning tabs with slots in lock module assembly, and press lock cylinder into position. To complete installation, reverse removal procedure.
Fig. 5: Lock Cylinder Removal
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.



LOCK CYLINDER (NON-FUNCTIONAL)
Removal
Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove steering wheel. See STEERING WHEEL . Remove tilt lever. Remove 2 lower shroud screws. Tilt lower shroud down and slide back to disengage locking tabs, and then remove lower shroud. Remove upper shroud retaining screws.
Remove retaining ring. Remove SIR coil assembly. See appropriate AIR BAG RESTRAINT SYSTEMS article. Remove wave washer. Using Lock Plate Compressor (J-23653-SIR), remove and discard retaining ring. Remove shaft lock shield assembly. Remove turn signal cancel cam.
On models with park lock cable, ensure lock cylinder is in OFF-LOCK position and gear shift is in Park. Insert small screwdriver into slot in lock module assembly, push against locking tab on end of cable, and remove park lock cable.
On all models, remove 3 screws, and remove lock module assembly with upper shroud. Remove backing plate from lock module assembly. Mark 2 sector gears at OFF-LOCK position for reassembly reference. See Fig. 6 . Remove both sector gears.
Using an 1/8" burring tool, remove positioning tab on end of lock cylinder. See Fig. 7 . Remove all burrs in and around lock module assembly and lock cylinder. From inside lock module assembly, push on locking tab and pull out lock cylinder. Clean debris from lock module assembly.
Installation
NOTE:Ensure 2 sector gears are properly aligned in OFF-LOCK position, or lock cylinder and ignition switch will be improperly timed.

Install sector gears and backing plate to lock module assembly, ensuring reference marks are aligned. Ensure sector in lock module assembly is in OFF-LOCK position. Insert key in lock cylinder, and turn ignition switch to LOCK position. Align locking and position tabs with slots in lock module assembly and press lock cylinder into position. Turn lock cylinder to ACC position, and check alignment of arrows on sector gears (arrows should be pointing at each other). Turn lock cylinder back to OFF-LOCK position.
To complete installation, reverse removal procedure. When installing turn signal canceling cam, lubricate lower brass surface with synthetic grease. Use NEW shaft lock retaining ring. Tighten all screws to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS . Adjust park lock cable, if necessary. See PARK LOCK CABLE under ADJUSTMENTS.
 
#4 ·
This is a great reference. Actually it is not as bad as I thought. I new cylinder is around forty dollars. I wonder if there is a door on the cylinder for re keying or if it is sealed. I went to re key the dead bolt on my front door of my house, the thing was sealed so I had to buy a whole new dead bolt.
 
#5 ·
Is the key that you are using a copy of a copy of a copy ??? Or is it an original ??? If it is a worn out copy, then have a locksmith make an original if you have the keycode. You can also try some Lockease lubricant
(it has graphite in it) to see if the pins in the tumbler will loosen up. Otherwise, figure that the tumbler is toast, and replace the lock assembly as laid out above.

Bob
 
#6 ·
If you have some cigarette lighter fluid you can try that first before replacing the cylinder. Shoot some in the lock & work it with the key, then remove the key and wipe the loose dirt off on a paper towel.
 
#9 ·
Just called the dealer ship. 15 bucks to run the vin, and 9 dollars for the key. Thats 24 bucks verses just replacing the whole thing for around forty. On top of all this someone just stole all my clothes from the laundromat. Now I have to drive all the way to wal mart for a twelve pack of wife beaters. What next?
 
#10 ·
The keycode should be in with the owners' manual package. It is possible that a good locksmith would be able to help you out, if they are equipped to originate GM keys. Try clean and lube first though.

Does your key have the "GM" logo, or a plain fingerhold, possibly something like "Ilco", or "Bobs' Lock" or the like ???

Bob
 
#11 ·
I call around a dozen locksmiths today. The number for most did not even work. The ones that did answer were some centrally located answering service that will send a locksmith from your area out. What the heck happened to all the locksmiths.
 
#13 ·
paintdrying said:
Just called the dealer ship. 15 bucks to run the vin, and 9 dollars for the key. Thats 24 bucks verses just replacing the whole thing for around forty. On top of all this someone just stole all my clothes from the laundromat. Now I have to drive all the way to wal mart for a twelve pack of wife beaters. What next?
Wow! 24 bux is cheap....every dealer I talked to about making a key for the Safari wanted 50 for the first key, and like 5 for each additional.
 
#14 ·
paintdrying said:
Just called the dealer ship. 15 bucks to run the vin, and 9 dollars for the key. Thats 24 bucks verses just replacing the whole thing for around forty. On top of all this someone just stole all my clothes from the laundromat. Now I have to drive all the way to wal mart for a twelve pack of wife beaters. What next?
that is the best choice. my van uses one key for everything. if i were to change the ignition switch, then i would have 2 different keys.... i would surly lose one or the other...lol.
 
#15 ·
I think it is the lock cylinder itself. I would hate to spend the cash and find out I have to replace the cylinder anyway. At this point I am hoping to be able to put new tumblers in the cylinder itself. Does anyone know if the cylinder is sealed or not. And do I have to buy the tumblers at the dealer. I am looking at the money and I am considering a slide hammer at this point
 
#16 ·
unless your cylinder was messed with i doubt that it would be the cylinder. when the cylinder fails, it usually lets you take the key out when the van is running. but that's just me. what is the current condition of your key? the tumblers are hardened steel, the key is always the first to go. the only reason i say this is because A: i have 3 keys that have all systematically worn out, B: your van is newer than mine. what does a new cylinder cost? if it's more than the cost of a key, it would be to your advantage to try the least costly first. what if you replace the cylinder and find there is nothing wrong with it? also, you should have one key for everything...i do. if you find that it is your cylinder, get it from the dealer, you will be able to keep the one key option.
 
#17 ·
one other note. with 2 of my keys, neither of them will allow me to turn the cylinder backwards. i have one key that does, but sometimes i have to flip it. it would seem that one side of that key still works...lol. i can use all the keys to start the van
 
#18 ·
That makes a lot of sense, as I studied the keys you can see a lip on the edge of the key, indicating the key has worn. My cylinder will not turn backwards. I tried another key that came with the van, it looks to be fairly new, it does the same thing. Probably a copy of a copy. I tried to pull the key when the van was running. No luck, tight as could be. I could install a new cylinder and key in the van for 50 dollars. That is with me doing everything.
I found a re keying kit on line, it would cost me around 50 dollars to rekey it. The advantage to that is I would still have one key for everything. The other option I am thinking is to remove the cylinder and start taking out tumblers until I find the one that is sticking. Remove only one tumbler and reassemble. That would be free accept for my labor. I would also have a locking ignition just a little less secure.
If I can get a few blank keys fairly cheap I am going to try and file a key by hand, filing little by little until it fits. I can use the old key as a template.
 
#19 ·
Best bet is to take it to a REAL locksmith, not the 13th grader at Walmart. An old time hardware store would be a good second option, I'd lean toward a mom & pop place, then an Ace/True Value, big box stores last. If the key is worn down it can be compensated for when it's being cut. It may take a few tries to find the right offset/shim under it when it's being cut, but it is possible: I've done it.

What number is on the blank? I have some old GM blanks laying around.
 
#20 ·
I tried the locksmith route first. Not sure what is going on in the locksmith business, but basically there are none where I am at. The key copiers at the big box are like self serve machines with no real brain. I am going up to Cleveland in a week, I personally know a few locksmiths that can help me. The blank says 14R3.
 
#23 ·
cowboydan said:
when the cylinder fails, it usually lets you take the key out when the van is running. but that's just me.
Not necessarily true. My cylinder was completely worn out; I could stick the key in and turn it and get all the lights, but no actual start - and I could not pull out the key while it was in RUN. Once I replaced the cylinder, everything works as it should (I did replace the ignition switch and the housing part because there was chafing and wear, but they weren't the cause of the no start).

The new cylinder wasn't perfect, but the tumblers are indeed accessible. I had to file down a poorly cut down plug (both top and side) to get the cylinder to turn in the housing bore at all (and allow the little piece that allows the cylinder to turn to move up and down) and lube it, to boot.

There is a section in the FSM that deals with re-keying cylinders to make them match the others. I just wanted my van to start NOW and not fiddle with little tiny pieces of metal and even smaller springs that tend to go sproing at the worst possible time. I did keep my OEM cylinder for a later date, if I so wish.
 
#24 ·
i know Leeann. it's just the only experience i have had with the gm ignition switches. 3 times on 3 different gms. as for my van, i just went to the dealer and had the keys made. now i can move my ignition switch counterclockwise. going to the lock smith is the same as going to walmart. they only patern the keys off the original. if they can do it better, it is more than 15 bucks. a girl at my work went the lock smith rout and she got hosed 40 bucks for one key. i got 2 for 30....lol at the dealer no less
 
#25 ·
My '99 was getting like the OP's, I could pull it out while the van was running, and it wouldn't turn back to accessory. I got one of the spare keys I had made back when I worked for GM, and it eliminated all the issues I was having. ( Employee price was 5 dollars each, I had them make 3 spares, all done off the VIN, not copying the original)
 
#26 ·
As tempting as it is to have neat things dangling off your key ring, a good way to increase the life of the ignition cylinder is to have as little weight as possible hanging off your key ring. I have my 2000 keyfob and key, 87 key, house key, and tool-box key. That's it. My mailbox key and hitch lock key are in the ash tray in my van.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top