replacing the pinion seal

replacing the pinion seal

Postby paintdrying [OP] » June 25th 2011, 11:27pm

I noticed that my pinion seal is slowly leaking and would like to replace it. My first question is, how hard is the yoke bolt to get loose? Also, do I just tighten the yoke nut after replacing the seal, or does that effect backlash. How technical of a job is this?
1999 chevy astro van awd ls 108,000 miles
parts van 2000 astro rwd 279,000 miles
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Re: replacing the pinion seal

Postby chevymaherchevymaher is online! » June 26th 2011, 1:35am

Removal & Installation
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
NOTE
The following procedure requires the use of the Pinion Holding tool J-8614–10, the Pinion Flange Removal tool J-8614–1, J-8614–2, J-8614–3 and the Pinion Seal Installation tool J-23911.
Remove driveshaft from the pinion flange. Matchmark the driveshaft prior to removal.
Remove driveshaft from the rear axle pinion flange and support the shaft up in body tunnel by wiring it to the exhaust pipe.
NOTE
If the U-joint bearings are not retained by a retainer strap, use a piece of tape to hold bearings on their journals.
Mark the position of the pinion stem, flange and nut for reference.
Use an inch lbs. torque wrench to measure the amount of torque necessary to turn the pinion, then note this measurement as it is the combined pinion bearing, seal, carrier bearing, axle bearing and seal preload.
Remove pinion flange nut and washer, using a Pinion Holding tool J-8614–10 and a Pinion Flange Removal tool J-8614–1, J-8614–2, J-8614–3, as applicable.
Remove pinion flange.
Remove pinion oil seal by driving it out of the differential with a blunt chisel; DO NOT damage the carrier.

Removing the pinion nut using a pinion holding fixture tool
pinion seal tool.jpg
pinion seal tool.jpg (111.55 KiB) Viewed 2563 times


A puller and adapter should be used to withdraw the pinion from the housing
pinion flange 2.jpg
pinion flange 2.jpg (110.19 KiB) Viewed 2563 times


Use the appropriately sized installation tool to drive the new seal into position.
installer.jpg
installer.jpg (108.15 KiB) Viewed 2563 times

To install:
Examine the seal surface of pinion flange for tool marks, nicks or damage, such as a groove worn by the seal. If damaged, replace flange.
Examine the carrier bore and remove any burrs that might cause leaks around the O.D. of the seal.
Apply GM seal lubricant 1050169 to the outside diameter of the pinion flange and sealing lip of new seal.
Install new pinion oil seal using a seal installer tool.
Install pinion flange and tighten nut to the same position as marked earlier. Tighten the nut a little at a time and turn the pinion flange several times after each tightening in order to set the rollers.
Measure the torque necessary to turn the pinion and compare this to the reading taken during removal. Tighten the nut additionally, as necessary to achieve the same preload as measured earlier.
NOTE
If fluid was lost from the differential housing during this procedure, be sure to check and add additional fluid, as necessary.
Remove the support then align and secure the driveshaft assembly to the pinion flange.
NOTE
The original matchmarks MUST be aligned to assure proper shaft balance and prevent vibration.
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Re: replacing the pinion seal

Postby paintdrying [OP] » June 26th 2011, 2:04am

this is what I was afraid of. Plan b- keep an eye on the fluid level, look for a used rear end
1999 chevy astro van awd ls 108,000 miles
parts van 2000 astro rwd 279,000 miles
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Re: replacing the pinion seal

Postby WoodButcher » June 26th 2011, 4:06am

paintdrying wrote:this is what I was afraid of. Plan b- keep an eye on the fluid level, look for a used rear end

LOL, yeah, me too. I want to change gear ratio also so this is the road I'm going.
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Re: replacing the pinion seal

Postby 'cudapaul » June 26th 2011, 4:30am

First, it has been my experience that replacing the pinion seal usually causes more problems than it fixes, even when the DEALER has done the work.

Also, a leaking pinion seal is an indication that the front or rear, or both, pinion bearings are worn enough to cause runout which places additional wear on the seal (think loose pinion shaft wobbling).

Unfortunately, the front bearing is too small for the loads that the differentinal carries, and usually wears out first, and that often causes the rear pinion bearing to wear, but either one can and will fail.

YMMV!
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Re: replacing the pinion seal

Postby luckybodog » May 25th 2012, 2:49am

I have got woobling in mine I just replace the seal . Unfortunately i just read your post . So if replacing the seal does not help what can you I do? I just replaced the wheel seal as well . Man that stuff is work for an old Guy. Does it need an all new rear end or at least a newer one. What a dog to do? luckybodog.
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Re: replacing the pinion seal

Postby chevymaherchevymaher is online! » May 25th 2012, 3:00am

Did it have the wobbling before? Only way to get rid of that is to rebuild.
I rebuilt mine. The bearing races were about shot. How many miles you got? Only way to get rid of that play is to crush the crush bearing more. But if it is because parts are wore that not a good idea. You would have to use a big impact to do it.
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Re: replacing the pinion seal

Postby paintdrying [OP] » May 25th 2012, 3:08am

I ended up finding a really good place to rebuild my rear end. They wanted 500 dollars total. If i needed new axle bearings it was going to be extra.
I ended up junking the van for other reasons, never did become a problem
1999 chevy astro van awd ls 108,000 miles
parts van 2000 astro rwd 279,000 miles
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Re: replacing the pinion seal

Postby luckybodog » May 25th 2012, 5:05am

chevymaher wrote:Did it have the wobbling before? Only way to get rid of that is to rebuild.
I rebuilt mine. The bearing races were about shot. How many miles you got? Only way to get rid of that play is to crush the crush bearing more. But if it is because parts are wore that not a good idea. You would have to use a big impact to do it.


I have 144,000 miles on it,but it was a Florida state van . It spend count less hours beside the highway idling i would think anyway. I never had this leak until recently. The transmission seal upfront was changed last year at the dealership and they don't miss nothing . Their mechanics get pay by the job. They try to find things wrong. I don't drive it that much its a family van and now they have their own vehicles. Were should I start the rebuild or should I look for a low mileage rear end? I just did this job including the wheel seals on the ground. I have not poured the floor or gotten power in my garage I just build and I do not have a real air compressor just the pancake with no syrup. Your help is appreciated. Luckybodog.
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