Rear end Banging '91 Safari w/ '88 Safari rear end

[brandonschultz1]

Hello,

I have had a '91 Safari for 8 years that I still use as a light duty work truck for painting. When I bought it in '03, I swapped out the rear end with one from an '88 Safari. I already was aware of a whirring sound in the '88 before swap and it has been tolerable all these years.

Symtoms:

--after shifting into 2d gear, a banging noise begins--intermittent and in a distinct rythymatic pattern similiar to a going over road seams, or bridge seams.

--Noise increases with intensity (louder) as acceleration increases,

--Noise does not occur while coasting in any Forward gear; reverse or nuetral.

--When brakes are applied to stop, the noise stops, but returns as a rather loud metalic (click/thunk) immediately before the vehicle halts.

I did the best inspection I could with limited resources: loose fastener check, crack check, failed welds, u-joint play and checking wheel play and other things I though to be relatively useful on this website.

I discovered that structural fasteners and welds are sound; that u-joint play appears to be normal; there is more play in the passenger rear wheel than I think there should be (when on the jack, i grabbed wheel at the 12 - 6 points and found that there was play both up and down, and back and forth when I grabbed it at the 9- 3 position).

I also discovered that the shock absorber grommets were worn where each is affixed to the axel housing mounts resulting in myself being able to twist and freely move the shock along the bolted-pin--there are no shims, or spacers rather, to keep the lower mount of the shock from sliding back and forth on the "bolt pin".

I'm miles away from either the bone yard or a parts store. This is the only vehicle in my household.

I'm trying to avoid wasting money, miles of walking on foot, and most of all, the double or triple amount of work that this can entail.

One more thing, the rear suspension includes a heavy-duty leaf-spring---the clam mounts are secure.

Thanks for the help

[Jasen]

I would say you've got something giving out in the diff. You might think about picking up some gear oil and some RTV, pop the cover and see whats going on in there. The last time I had one doing something like this, it wasn't far from letting loose when I opened it up. Once you know whats going on, but most likely it's either find another diff or put a new carrier in it. I think I paid $350 for an Eaton trutrack posi carrier for the Wrangler when it went out.

Seeing your in the sticks and this is your only rig, it's something you should look at ASAP

[Lumpy]

My 89 had what sounds like exactly the same sounds/symptoms. Broken gear teeth in the diff. Wish I could say it's just a loose bolt. But I had to replace the rearend.


Lump

[brandonschultz1]

I'm not surprised by your responses, Jasen and Lump. Perhaps if I were to use ear plugs, then maybe it would go away! LOL!

Very well then--I'll pop off the cover and inspect the diff, and just deal with it. A used rear end from the boneyard by me is $250--nuts! Nor do I see anything on craigslist in my area (racine WI)

Thanks

[Lumpy]

If you can get the entire rear axle with diff, brakes etc for 250, then you've got it made. Doing the actual replacement isn't a monster job. Hardest part is getting the rearend home from the bone yard and getting it onto the ground. I haven't done a replacement (I had it done) but I've certainly had my entire rear axle disconnected and rolling free. Took maybe an hour absolute tops to get it disconnected from the time I placed the first wheel chock till it was out. Hardest part was disconnecting the parking brake cable because it's adjuster sleeve thingie was rusted and in a tight spot to turn.


Lump

[brandonschultz1]

Lump,
Your right about what I have to face with a swap. When I first did this I was fortunate to still have my '88 Safari when I bought the '91. Complete change out time for that was about a day--both vehicles and air tools to assist me. I don't have that luxury anymore. I recall the parking brake cable as well--that seemed to take more time than it should.

The boneyard's price does not include brake guts and wheels--I already know that my wheel cylinders are shot, and that this whole thing is going to turn into a costly project once begun.

I've considered scrapping it, but changing out vehicles is an impossible option, due to the finances involved with buying someone else's problems after a paid-in-full purchase, upfront. Not to mention loss of work/income.

Guess I have to rule out JB Weld and duct tape to fix this one---lol

Brandon

[Jasen]

Just put a $2,000 stereo in it and crank it up, problem solved.

If a JY diff were $250 I'd look at replacing the carrier and the wheel bearings, then your basically good as new.

Scroll down the page http://www.ringpinion.com/DiffWizard.aspx

[Lumpy]

Brakes, esp rear drums, are cheap, and easy.

If you're getting the axle and diff, that simplifies things immensely. If you're getting just the diff gears to go inside your pumpkin, there's a lot of exacting measuring, crush washers, shims, ft/lb torque wrenches and all that.


Lump

[BillyJoBob]

I have the exact same problem, 3 broken teeth on ring gear.

My question is ... how can I determine the exact ratio of my rear end without taking the cover off and counting the teeth on the ring and pinion gears, not sure how to turn the ring gear to count accurately anyway.

TIA

BJB

[chevymaher]

I have the exact same problem, 3 broken teeth on ring gear.

My question is ... how can I determine the exact ratio of my rear end without taking the cover off and counting the teeth on the ring and pinion gears, not sure how to turn the ring gear to count accurately anyway.

TIA

BJB

There is no easy way.A vin search will tell you what it came with.If the rear been worked on or changed that tells you nothing.Spinning the wheels and counting drive shaft revolutions will get you in the ballpark of what it has.That takes 2 people one on each wheel spinning them in unison.

[BillyJoBob]

Thanks chevymaher, jogged my memory enuff that I called the head of a Chevy parts dept I know and he ran the vin for me, gonna get the whole print out in tomorrows mail