Bad Ast Project

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Re: Bad Ast Project

Postby astroracer [OP] » January 11th 2017, 3:00pm

Thank You Sir! Much appreciated! I will not call myself a "PRO" either but I know what you are saying. :banana:
That nice little bend will have to come out after I move the engine mount down. It won't be there anymore to get in the way... :rockon:
Mark
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Re: Bad Ast Project

Postby chevymaher » January 11th 2017, 3:08pm

I watch your thread quietly. You do good work. Just letting you know it isn't being ignored and I am interested. Nice job. I know that helps when you doing stuff like this.

Your van is like my chev. Does more hogging up space than actually getting done. But that is why it is a hobby right?
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Re: Bad Ast Project

Postby Lumpy » January 11th 2017, 3:44pm

astroracer wrote:
Making the inverted flare side is easy. A 3/16 drill and 90degree c'sink work perfect for that.



I'd enjoy hearing/seeing more about how you did that.


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Re: Bad Ast Project

Postby astroracer [OP] » January 11th 2017, 4:57pm

chevymaher wrote:I watch your thread quietly. You do good work. Just letting you know it isn't being ignored and I am interested. Nice job. I know that helps when you doing stuff like this.

Your van is like my chev. Does more hogging up space than actually getting done. But that is why it is a hobby right?

Thanks bud, I'm glad you are watching and enjoying the show. You are right though. A project like this eats up a LOT of space. When this one is done my barn will almost half empty (or half full) take it as you will. :)

And Lump? It is pretty easy to do with the lathe. After facing off the end to square it up I hit it with a center drill. Then I run a 3/16th's drill into the part about 3/16th's deep. A 90 degree C'sink is ran in about .09 inches to make the chamfer. I can get some detailed pics if you want to see the process. :)
Mark
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Re: Bad Ast Project

Postby Lumpy » January 11th 2017, 5:20pm

astroracer wrote:
And Lump? It is pretty easy to do with the lathe. After facing off the end to square it up I hit it with a center drill. Then I run a 3/16th's drill into the part about 3/16th's deep. A 90 degree C'sink is ran in about .09 inches to make the chamfer. I can get some detailed pics if you want to see the process. :)
Mark


OK. I see what you did. An alum threaded blob. These tiny parts always seem so simple when we describe them. Typically much more complex when we're building them. We use $10k worth of equipment to make a simple, little gizmo. It's what you have to do. Lots of people would say "Over my head". I thorougly enjoy seeing people figure out how to make a part.

Sure - Pics of the steps would be boneriffic!


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Re: Bad Ast Project

Postby astroracer [OP] » January 11th 2017, 5:45pm

Yup, you nailed that! I'll put together a tutorial. :cheers:
Mark
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Re: Bad Ast Project

Postby astroracer [OP] » January 27th 2017, 12:57am

Well, I did some serious thinking, looking back through all of my build pics and came to the conclusion the engine is staying where it is. Too many other issues when I start lowering it more. Alternator, oil pan clearance, trans mount, etc. I am leaving it where it sits and I will deal with the air cleaner/dog house issue when I get to it.

I've been working on the brake line routing. Like the rear suspension I mocked up both of the front suspensions so I could bolt up the soft lines I got from Tobin at Kore3.
Everything looks pretty good, I have the spots for the weld-on tabs marked out and am looking at steering stops, stab bar attachments and a few other issues that need to be rectified before the chassis is painted.
Here are a few pics from the last few nights.
One tab needs a cut out to fit on the rear crossmember.
Image
Cut out with the bandsaw and cleaned up with the grinder, fits like a glove...
Image
This is where the tab will go. On the drivers side right above the shock mount.
Image

I hung the front suspensions & brake corners.
Image
Image
With the lines bolted to the calipers I could move the corner through left and right steer to see where the lines wanted to fall naturally. This is important to avoid twisting the lines during steer. Twisting will weaken the lines AND MAY loosen fittings over time. Not a good thing.
With no steer, going straight, the hose is relaxed and in a good spot to stay out of the coil-over AND the wheel as it is spinning rapidly next to it. (I hope)...
Image
RH corner at right lock. The hose curls up in a linear arch with no twist.
Image
At full left lock the hose still has some length so it is not pulling against either fitting.
Image

The LH side line is pretty much a mirror image of the right side. I thought it would be but I still had to mock it up to verify my "think so".
Image

Next step will be mounting the rack and developing the steering stops. Is there a rule of thumb for how much to leave at the end of rack travel? I was thinking about a 1/4" or so. Anybody?
Well, that's where I'm at with it. Lots to do to get this thing wrapped up and paint ready.
Mark
2004 Astro
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2000 Monte Carlo SS
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1994 Formula V8 Firebird
1988 Astro (the BadAst Project
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Re: Bad Ast Project

Postby Lumpy » January 27th 2017, 4:04pm

Man I dig looking at builds when they're all clean and in the shop and you can see all sides of it. Nice job.

And nice job on the ..."mock it up to verify my "think so""...

I'm VERY sure my right and left wheel spaces aren't equal. Basing everything off one side only and trying to apply it to the other side, without verifying, can very well turn out to be a grief causer.

Nice fit up on the brake tabs.


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Re: Bad Ast Project

Postby nonhog » January 27th 2017, 6:54pm

Enjoy watching your work! Why don't I have a neighbor like you. LOL
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Re: Bad Ast Project

Postby astroracer [OP] » January 28th 2017, 2:20am

Thanks guys! I don't know as if you would want me for a neighbor... Things can get pretty noisy in the shop at times.
I got a bit done tonight. Worked on the steering stops. I bolted in the rack and got the steering "wheel" centered (it's a pair of vise grips...). Full lock to lock on the Corvette rack is 2.63 turns, just shy of 2 3/4's. Turning the wheel to full lock and then backing out of that by about 1/4" of travel (on the knuckle) should get me a good starting point for setting up the stop bolts.
I took some pics but it's kind of hard to see. I used a magnet to set the bolt where I want to hit the LCA and measured for a piece of 3/8th's plate I will use to fab the bolt tab.
This is the right lock stop bolt on the passenger side.
Image
This is the right lock bolt on the drivers side.
Image
Using these positions I came up with 4 stop tabs that just happen to all be the same size. 1" wide by 1 1/2" long. I laid them out on a scrap piece of 3/8th's and chunked them out with the bandsaw.
Image
I laid out the hole in each one and drilled and tapped for a 3/8-16. The tap I used is out of the original Craftsman tap and die set I bought with graduation money in 1974... It has cut a LOT of threads and I have never broken any of the taps. :)
Image
I'll round these over a bit before I weld them to the knuckles. I will also flatten that edge on the control arm to give a better target for the bolt head.
Image
I got SOMETHING done tonight. ;)
Mark
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1995 GMC Sierra (the show truck)
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Re: Bad Ast Project

Postby Lumpy » January 28th 2017, 2:52pm

Once again, I dig seeing the very small steps. That's very helpful for people that fab stuff. The idea that you'd take an entire day and a thousand pics to build a little square of metal probably seems horribly labor intensive to most. But once you get going it's this tremendous Zen thing, knowing that the part you're building looks very much like, and is nearly the exact dimensions of the part you initially envisioned. It's satisfying just knowing that you're doing each of the 400 steps in the right order!

3/8-16, probably my current most used taps/dies. Bumper, ladder, now I'm learning - Engine block.


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Re: Bad Ast Project

Postby astroracer [OP] » January 29th 2017, 1:35am

Thanks Lump, I'm glad you are enjoying my narratives. If you have ANY questions just holler.
I didn't work on the stops ALL day though. I get home from work at 3 in the afternoon. I usually get right out to the shop and, yesterday, I spent about 2 1/2 hours out there building the blocks. So it didn't take that long to do. I usually work that way during the week 2 or 3 hours a day unless I really get into something.
Today I was out there for about 3 hours also. Spent the morning with the better half doing some errands and going to breakfast. I got out there about 2 and got a lot done.

I picked up a junction block for the front brake lines. It will split the line from the prop valve out to the left and right front calipers.
It will sit on the driver side inner frame rail.
Image
I grabbed a chunk of NiCop (my last bug piece) and started looking at getting it routed from the junction block to the passenger side rail.
The best route was running back a bit to the last crossmember that runs right under the front of the engine. After getting a few bends done it started looking pretty good.
Image
Dinking it around all of that tubing took some time but I got it ran and I didn't destroy it in the process. :)
Image
This is the passenger side. It runs forward a bit once it gets back to the rail and will drop down under the rail to reach the weld-on brake tab. I won't finish this end until the tab is installed.
Image
The line is still loose, I haven't added the clips yet. I will center it and tweak the fit as I install the clips.
Image
I also got the line built from the junction to the left front tab. This was a no brainer as it was only about 4" long with one bend.
I took some quick measurements and did a layout so I could get the bend and the lengths out to the tab correct.
Image
Once I had that figured out I put a flare on each end and a bend in the middle. Done!
Image
Fits like a glove!
Image
Thanks for watching!
Mark
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Re: Bad Ast Project

Postby Lumpy » January 29th 2017, 2:17am

Yeah.........


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Re: Bad Ast Project

Postby astroracer [OP] » January 30th 2017, 2:57pm

Didn't get a lot of time out in the shop Sunday but it was enough to get the clips mounted for the Right Front hardline.
I started in the middle of the crossmember. Once this was tightened up I could center the line and determine where to put the end clips.
Image
I mounted the outer clips so they captured the tangent of the bend radius on each end. This keeps the line from itching around between the clips.
Image
This is the driver side bolted up.
Image
And the passenger side. I'll finish routing this end after the brake tabs are welded on.
Image
Mark
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Re: Bad Ast Project

Postby astroracer [OP] » February 5th 2017, 2:55pm

I was working on another project during the week so I didn't get much done on the van until Saturday morning. I rolled the tubing bender out and got the rear anti-roll bar bent up.
I made a drawing of the bar in CAD with dimensions so laying it out took no guess work. The 4.71 dimension is the arc length of the "centerline" of the bend. This is the length of tubing used to make the 90deg bend between the tangents.
Image
Using the roller jig to mark the tubing. I laid out the tangent lines just like the drawing said. Rolling the tubing in the jig gives me a perfectly straight line, all around the tubing, at each tangent point. makes setting it up in the bender easy.
Image

Image
Here you can see the two tangent points laid out for one bend.
Image

Getting the bender set up. Having it on the cart AND automated, sure does make this less of a chore. The rear bar is 1" O.D. x .095 wall 4130 Chrome Moly. It bends pretty easy anyway but this makes it fun. :)
Image
Set up for the 1st bend and about 1/2 the way through it. The air/hydraulic cylinder works well and is very controllable.
Image

Out to 90 degrees. I am sneaking up on 90 here. To get "90" the tubing needs to be over bent so that, when it springs back, it stays at 90. I over bend it a bit, stop, loosen the jack screw to let the machine relax, measure the bend then bend a bit more if needed. I did this twice for the first bend and once for the second. Knowing what it takes helps with the second bend.
Image
getting the second bend done.
Image
Part of doing this correctly is making sure the second bend is on the same plane as the 1st bend. Having one leg point up and the other pointing down is not a good thing.
This is the bar after bending. Setting it on the floor tells me if I got it right or not. No rocking in either direction means I got it right.:)
Image
In this pic you can see the tangent points and where they fell in the bend.
Image
All trimmed up and ready for the endlink tabs to be welded on. I won't do that until I get the rest of the system mocked into place so I can tack everything at one time.
Image
This is how the bar looked in my CAD model.
Image
Thanks for following.
Mark
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Re: Bad Ast Project

Postby Lumpy » February 5th 2017, 3:26pm

:clap: :clap: :clap:

- Roller pipe marking jig

- End links with Heims and adjustment points

Excellent ... :rockon:


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Re: Bad Ast Project

Postby sixsix » February 5th 2017, 3:59pm

Mechanic / Engineer / Craftsman at Work and using CAD.

Does not get much better than that. ( seems like deja vu )
And there is not many better.



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Re: Bad Ast Project

Postby WoodButcher » February 5th 2017, 4:35pm

How did you arrive at the 7" length for the legs? Will that allow enough travel for the axle and enough flex for articulation?
I realize the point of it is to eliminate the articulation or body roll but some allowance is needed for road conditions so that every pothole or stone won't break the suspension.

As usual, nice work.
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Re: Bad Ast Project

Postby astroracer [OP] » February 9th 2017, 2:28am

The 7" length was determined by running the suspension thru jounce and rebound after I had it built and mocked up the first time. The suspension only has about 6 inches of total travel in the coil overs at full tramp so the 7" length will be good.

Got a few things done in the last couple of days. Tonight I got the tabs welded onto the stab bar and got that mocked up.
Image

[img]https://images12.fotki.com/v1641/photos/5/904975/14233327/MVC027S-vi.jpg
[/img]

Image
I need to clean up the spatter but the old Airco did a good job.
Image

Mocked up on the stands with bushings.
Image

Image

Thanks for watching.
Mark
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Years of Membership: astroracer has been a member for 7 full yearsastroracer has been a member for 7 full yearsastroracer has been a member for 7 full yearsastroracer has been a member for 7 full yearsastroracer has been a member for 7 full yearsastroracer has been a member for 7 full yearsastroracer has been a member for 7 full years
Posts: 508
Topics: 6
Joined: January 2010
Location: Mid-Michigan
Gender: Male
Alias (AKA): astroracer
Year: 1988
Van Make/Model: Chevrolet Astro
Extra Info: Major renovation

Re: Bad Ast Project

Postby astroracer [OP] » February 9th 2017, 2:29am

I got around to ordering the springs for the coil overs this week. Got them thru Speedway, they were on sale and, with free shipping, I saved a bit of cash.
Image
Mocked up on a shock. I also got the Thrust bearings that go between the spring and lower seat.
Image

Instead of welding on the brake tabs I decided to go with these bolt on guys. I think this will be a lot cleaner on the frame. As you can see I have them bolted down already.
Image
Image
I did have an issue with these though. As received the hole for the brake line was to small. I had to drill them out with a 5/8ths bit to get the line to go in.
This was one of the straight tabs I had been using.
Image
This was the hole size in the new tabs...
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.025 makes a big difference here.
Mark
2004 Astro
2001 Astro (the wifes)
2000 Monte Carlo SS
2000 Astro Conversion Van
1995 GMC Sierra (the show truck)
1994 Formula V8 Firebird
1988 Astro (the BadAst Project
1956 Chevy Station Wagon
Original Poster [OP]
User avatar
astroracer
Firing on 5 Cylinders (L1)
Firing on 5 Cylinders (L1)
Years of Membership: astroracer has been a member for 7 full yearsastroracer has been a member for 7 full yearsastroracer has been a member for 7 full yearsastroracer has been a member for 7 full yearsastroracer has been a member for 7 full yearsastroracer has been a member for 7 full yearsastroracer has been a member for 7 full years
Posts: 508
Topics: 6
Joined: January 2010
Location: Mid-Michigan
Gender: Male
Alias (AKA): astroracer
Year: 1988
Van Make/Model: Chevrolet Astro
Extra Info: Major renovation

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