Wiggle the key

Wiggle the key

Postby paintdrying [OP] » February 25th 2011, 1:49am

I just started have a problem where I have to get the key in just right in the ignition before it will turn and start. After about a month of this I am thinking maybe I should fix it. If I disconnect the Battery will that disable the air bag? I probably need to replace the lock cylinder. Is this a hard job. I am a little worried about some factory security system that I might break.
1999 chevy astro van awd ls 108,000 miles
parts van 2000 astro rwd 279,000 miles
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Re: Wiggle the key

Postby chevymaherchevymaher is online! » February 25th 2011, 2:08am

Chiltons says unhook battery ground to disable air bag.I went and looked at my van.They come out different than they used to.Older cars put key in on accesories there a hole put a paper clip it it and tumbler slides out.Any way I hunting now to see how they come apart.
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Re: Wiggle the key

Postby chevymaherchevymaher is online! » February 25th 2011, 2:37am

I hope this is right .It was listed as being to a 2000 astro I tried for ya IGNITION & KEY ALARM SWITCH ASSEMBLY
Removal & Installation ("S", "T" & New Style "C" & "K" Series
Remove upper and lower steering column trim covers. Disconnect steering column bulkhead connector and slide turn signal and multifunction switch connectors form bulkhead connector.
Using small screwdriver, gently pry retaining clip on key alarm. Rotate alarm switch 1/4 turn, and remove alarm switch. See Fig. 4 . Slide ignition key and alarm switch assembly out of lock module assembly. On New style "C" and "K" series, use Ignition Switch Connector Release Tool (J-42759) to release ignition key alarm assembly.
To install, reverse removal procedure. Tighten screws to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS .
Fig. 4: Removing Ignition & Key Alarm Switch Assembly
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Removal & Installation ("G", "L", "M", "U" & Old Style "C" & "K" Series)
Remove ignition lock cylinder. See LOCK CYLINDER (FUNCTIONAL) . Remove upper and lower steering column trim covers. Disconnect steering column bulkhead connector and slide turn signal and multifunction switch connectors form bulkhead connector.
Using small screwdriver, gently pry retaining clip on key alarm. Rotate alarm switch 1/4 turn, and remove alarm switch. See Fig. 4 . On "U" series, pull PASS-Key(R) off of lock module assembly. On all models, remove 2 key alarm switch mounting screws. Remove ignition and key alarm switch assembly.
To install, reverse removal procedure. Tighten ignition switch mounting screw and key alarm switch screws to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS .
LOCK CYLINDER (FUNCTIONAL)
Removal & Installation
Disconnect negative battery cable. Position steering wheel half way between upper and lower tilt stops. Remove steering wheel. See STEERING WHEEL . Roll back shift lever seal from upper and lower steering column trim covers. Remove tilt wheel lever. Remove lower steering column trim cover. Remove screws retaining upper trim cover. Lift trim cover to gain access to lock cylinder access hole.
Hold ignition switch in START position. Using a bent tip awl, push on lock cylinder retaining pin. Release ignition switch to RUN position, and pull lock cylinder set from lock module assembly. See Fig. 5 .
To install, insert key into lock cylinder and turn to RUN position. Ensure sector in lock module assembly is in RUN position. Insert lock cylinder into lock module. Align locking and positioning tabs with slots in lock module assembly, and press lock cylinder into position. To complete installation, reverse removal procedure.
Fig. 5: Lock Cylinder Removal
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

266999_lock_1.jpg
266999_lock_1.jpg (22.35 KiB) Viewed 4169 times


LOCK CYLINDER (NON-FUNCTIONAL)
Removal
Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove steering wheel. See STEERING WHEEL . Remove tilt lever. Remove 2 lower shroud screws. Tilt lower shroud down and slide back to disengage locking tabs, and then remove lower shroud. Remove upper shroud retaining screws.
Remove retaining ring. Remove SIR coil assembly. See appropriate AIR BAG RESTRAINT SYSTEMS article. Remove wave washer. Using Lock Plate Compressor (J-23653-SIR), remove and discard retaining ring. Remove shaft lock shield assembly. Remove turn signal cancel cam.
On models with park lock cable, ensure lock cylinder is in OFF-LOCK position and gear shift is in Park. Insert small screwdriver into slot in lock module assembly, push against locking tab on end of cable, and remove park lock cable.
On all models, remove 3 screws, and remove lock module assembly with upper shroud. Remove backing plate from lock module assembly. Mark 2 sector gears at OFF-LOCK position for reassembly reference. See Fig. 6 . Remove both sector gears.
Using an 1/8" burring tool, remove positioning tab on end of lock cylinder. See Fig. 7 . Remove all burrs in and around lock module assembly and lock cylinder. From inside lock module assembly, push on locking tab and pull out lock cylinder. Clean debris from lock module assembly.
Installation
NOTE:Ensure 2 sector gears are properly aligned in OFF-LOCK position, or lock cylinder and ignition switch will be improperly timed.

Install sector gears and backing plate to lock module assembly, ensuring reference marks are aligned. Ensure sector in lock module assembly is in OFF-LOCK position. Insert key in lock cylinder, and turn ignition switch to LOCK position. Align locking and position tabs with slots in lock module assembly and press lock cylinder into position. Turn lock cylinder to ACC position, and check alignment of arrows on sector gears (arrows should be pointing at each other). Turn lock cylinder back to OFF-LOCK position.
To complete installation, reverse removal procedure. When installing turn signal canceling cam, lubricate lower brass surface with synthetic grease. Use NEW shaft lock retaining ring. Tighten all screws to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS . Adjust park lock cable, if necessary. See PARK LOCK CABLE under ADJUSTMENTS.
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Re: Wiggle the key

Postby paintdrying [OP] » February 25th 2011, 3:08am

This is a great reference. Actually it is not as bad as I thought. I new cylinder is around forty dollars. I wonder if there is a door on the cylinder for re keying or if it is sealed. I went to re key the dead bolt on my front door of my house, the thing was sealed so I had to buy a whole new dead bolt.
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Re: Wiggle the key

Postby RECox286 » February 25th 2011, 3:53am

Is the key that you are using a copy of a copy of a copy ??? Or is it an original ??? If it is a worn out copy, then have a locksmith make an original if you have the keycode. You can also try some Lockease lubricant
(it has graphite in it) to see if the pins in the tumbler will loosen up. Otherwise, figure that the tumbler is toast, and replace the lock assembly as laid out above.

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Re: Wiggle the key

Postby Big_kid » February 25th 2011, 5:51am

If you have some cigarette lighter fluid you can try that first before replacing the cylinder. Shoot some in the lock & work it with the key, then remove the key and wipe the loose dirt off on a paper towel.
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Re: Wiggle the key

Postby paintdrying [OP] » February 25th 2011, 6:05pm

Where would I get a keycode from? The dealer? The key came with the van, that is all I know. Yeah, I should go to cleaning it. Had not thought it would be that simple.
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Re: Wiggle the key

Postby chevymaherchevymaher is online! » February 25th 2011, 6:07pm

paintdrying wrote:Where would I get a keycode from? The dealer? The key came with the van, that is all I know. Yeah, I should go to cleaning it. Had not thought it would be that simple.

It was stamped on the original key.Which dont help much.
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Re: Wiggle the key

Postby paintdrying [OP] » February 25th 2011, 6:24pm

Just called the dealer ship. 15 bucks to run the vin, and 9 dollars for the key. Thats 24 bucks verses just replacing the whole thing for around forty. On top of all this someone just stole all my clothes from the laundromat. Now I have to drive all the way to wal mart for a twelve pack of wife beaters. What next?
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Re: Wiggle the key

Postby RECox286 » February 25th 2011, 6:28pm

The keycode should be in with the owners' manual package. It is possible that a good locksmith would be able to help you out, if they are equipped to originate GM keys. Try clean and lube first though.

Does your key have the "GM" logo, or a plain fingerhold, possibly something like "Ilco", or "Bobs' Lock" or the like ???

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Re: Wiggle the key

Postby paintdrying [OP] » February 26th 2011, 12:33am

I call around a dozen locksmiths today. The number for most did not even work. The ones that did answer were some centrally located answering service that will send a locksmith from your area out. What the heck happened to all the locksmiths.
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Re: Wiggle the key

Postby chevymaherchevymaher is online! » February 26th 2011, 1:48am

paintdrying wrote:I call around a dozen locksmiths today. The number for most did not even work. The ones that did answer were some centrally located answering service that will send a locksmith from your area out. What the heck happened to all the locksmiths.

Probably got caught and doing time LOL
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Re: Wiggle the key

Postby rev_les » February 26th 2011, 2:02am

paintdrying wrote:Just called the dealer ship. 15 bucks to run the vin, and 9 dollars for the key. Thats 24 bucks verses just replacing the whole thing for around forty. On top of all this someone just stole all my clothes from the laundromat. Now I have to drive all the way to wal mart for a twelve pack of wife beaters. What next?

Wow! 24 bux is cheap....every dealer I talked to about making a key for the Safari wanted 50 for the first key, and like 5 for each additional.
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Re: Wiggle the key

Postby cowboydan » February 26th 2011, 2:23am

paintdrying wrote:Just called the dealer ship. 15 bucks to run the vin, and 9 dollars for the key. Thats 24 bucks verses just replacing the whole thing for around forty. On top of all this someone just stole all my clothes from the laundromat. Now I have to drive all the way to wal mart for a twelve pack of wife beaters. What next?

that is the best choice. my van uses one key for everything. if i were to change the ignition switch, then i would have 2 different keys.... i would surly lose one or the other...lol.
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Re: Wiggle the key

Postby paintdrying [OP] » February 27th 2011, 1:54am

I think it is the lock cylinder itself. I would hate to spend the cash and find out I have to replace the cylinder anyway. At this point I am hoping to be able to put new tumblers in the cylinder itself. Does anyone know if the cylinder is sealed or not. And do I have to buy the tumblers at the dealer. I am looking at the money and I am considering a slide hammer at this point
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Re: Wiggle the key

Postby cowboydan » February 28th 2011, 2:04am

unless your cylinder was messed with i doubt that it would be the cylinder. when the cylinder fails, it usually lets you take the key out when the van is running. but that's just me. what is the current condition of your key? the tumblers are hardened steel, the key is always the first to go. the only reason i say this is because A: i have 3 keys that have all systematically worn out, B: your van is newer than mine. what does a new cylinder cost? if it's more than the cost of a key, it would be to your advantage to try the least costly first. what if you replace the cylinder and find there is nothing wrong with it? also, you should have one key for everything...i do. if you find that it is your cylinder, get it from the dealer, you will be able to keep the one key option.
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Re: Wiggle the key

Postby cowboydan » February 28th 2011, 2:17am

one other note. with 2 of my keys, neither of them will allow me to turn the cylinder backwards. i have one key that does, but sometimes i have to flip it. it would seem that one side of that key still works...lol. i can use all the keys to start the van
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Re: Wiggle the key

Postby paintdrying [OP] » February 28th 2011, 3:52am

That makes a lot of sense, as I studied the keys you can see a lip on the edge of the key, indicating the key has worn. My cylinder will not turn backwards. I tried another key that came with the van, it looks to be fairly new, it does the same thing. Probably a copy of a copy. I tried to pull the key when the van was running. No luck, tight as could be. I could install a new cylinder and key in the van for 50 dollars. That is with me doing everything.
I found a re keying kit on line, it would cost me around 50 dollars to rekey it. The advantage to that is I would still have one key for everything. The other option I am thinking is to remove the cylinder and start taking out tumblers until I find the one that is sticking. Remove only one tumbler and reassemble. That would be free accept for my labor. I would also have a locking ignition just a little less secure.
If I can get a few blank keys fairly cheap I am going to try and file a key by hand, filing little by little until it fits. I can use the old key as a template.
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Re: Wiggle the key

Postby Big_kid » February 28th 2011, 5:55am

Best bet is to take it to a REAL locksmith, not the 13th grader at Walmart. An old time hardware store would be a good second option, I'd lean toward a mom & pop place, then an Ace/True Value, big box stores last. If the key is worn down it can be compensated for when it's being cut. It may take a few tries to find the right offset/shim under it when it's being cut, but it is possible: I've done it.

What number is on the blank? I have some old GM blanks laying around.
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Re: Wiggle the key

Postby paintdrying [OP] » February 28th 2011, 6:54pm

I tried the locksmith route first. Not sure what is going on in the locksmith business, but basically there are none where I am at. The key copiers at the big box are like self serve machines with no real brain. I am going up to Cleveland in a week, I personally know a few locksmiths that can help me. The blank says 14R3.
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