A/C clutch

[a2l1]

Is it possible to pull the clutch assembly while the compressor is still bolted up and connected? Do you have to pump down the system or can one simply pull the clutch assembly and replace it with another unit without having to recharge the system. Now that I am thinking about it is there even enough room to get the clutch off the compressor while it is still bolted to the motor/ Anybody done this? Im all ears ----


A J

[longyard]

The clutch can be removed with the compressor still attached to the engine, however, is it wise to do so? If a clutch has reached the end of its duty life, there is a good chance the compressor is nearly finished, too. A new clutch from Rockauto is about $89. However, a new compressor with new clutch $200-$289 depending on quality.

Making all of this more complicated is the fact that should you go the new compressor route, you'll need to change the receiver/dryer and orifice tube at the same time, and then get the system recharged. If you do this yourself (not hard to do) you'll have about $400 in parts and $40 in recharging. If you pay someone it'll be $600-1000.

SO... if you decide to remove the clutch itself, you'll only need a simple tool (http://bernardembden.com/xjs/comclutch/index.htm) the ability to reinstall the serpentine belt. Budget an hour to do this.

[kennyj]

Replacing the clutch parts is not too difficult and doesn't require evacuating the system. You could even get by with using junkyard parts for $10 or $20. You'll need a special clutch puller tool which you should be able to rent from an auto parts store.
Here is an old thread that covers the subject:
viewtopic.php?f=34&t=9053

[a2l1]

Thanks all, especially for the link, most helpful. I appreciate it.

A J

[a2l1]

Several of the locals have compressors (pulls) for sale cheap. None of them have covered or taped the openings so I can assume the com pressors are pretty much junk. I want to be sure of one thing before I spring for one of these elcheapo "was working when I took it off" (right) compressors. If I jumper the clutch switch on the used one on the bench with 12 V and the clutch clicks can I assume that it is a working clutch? I dont want to go to all the trouble to pull it and then have exactly what I have now, --- a clutch that wont engage. I even jumped the pressure limit switch to be sure it was the clutch alone not kicking in.
Appreciate anyt input.

Thanks,

A J

[chevymaher]

There are 3 different types of compressors Ive run into and they all look about the same,and one that is so different you would never mistake it.one has a different plug where the clutch plugs in.one has no high pressure switch.and two identical ones except manifold connection different,one the manifold level the other offset by 1/8 inch.One side deeper than the other.that one cost me an extra trip to the junk yard.Put it on and manifold different Yippee just wasted alot of time and gas there.As long as you pull a vacuum and let it sit a half hour and pull vacuum again system being open not a biggie.All moisture and acids are gone they boil out after that amount of time.You lose a little vacuum as it boils out looks like a slight leak.Second time it will hold a vacuum if it sealed correctly.The differences are by year I am sure but in the scrap yard there alot of years that look the same.checking the clutch you dont have to worry about the pressure switch.pressure switch interrupts the voltage somewhere else in the wiring.At two contacts at clutch it go or no go works or not.

[a2l1]

I figured as long as the clutch clicked(engaged) it would be good but I wasnt sure. Thanks Now back to my tranny problem.

[a2l1]

Here is the update, I charged the A/C and started with a can of stop leak after I traced down all the electricals, relays,etc. Got it all working. Checked the pipes and fittings and found the inlet to the condenser was not on at all. Fixed that, fixed the rear air, Thought I took care of everything. Added two cans of 134 after the stop leak and was cold for about 15 minutes then the system pumped dry. Im thinking it is the compressor seal at the clutch.
Here is the 64 dollar question -- Is it possible to replace the seal on the compressor without removing the compressor? I know I will have to pump down whats left of the system but if I pull the clutch assy can I replace the seal with the compressor in place or is it a real bear job and should be done on the bench?
Its not that I am lazy ---- well yes it is --- but mostly because with this advanced RA it takes me awhile to get anything done when I am actually able to work on it at all so saving a step or two is something I really appreciate. If it has to come off so be it but if it is being done on the vehicle without a major hassle thats what Im looking for.

Thanks,

A J