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Air Conditioning Compressor Removal and Bypass - 1996 Astro

56K views 27 replies 20 participants last post by  sixsix 
#1 ·
If your van has air conditioning, there may come a point when the compressor dies or the clutch goes. At that point it can lock and shred your serpentine belt. In the case of my friend, his clutch went. We suspect the compressor had locked as well based on the fact the belt squealed and smoked before the clutch went. Then it made a horrid grinding noise as the clutch rattled and shredded itself against the pulley. Since cash was a little short, and it's closing on winter, a bypass was decided as a temporary fix. So, here goes:

On first glance, this looks like an incredibly daunting task. Almost like some better left to a garage who will happily charge you several hundred dollars. Here's what I'm talking about:


It's not so bad, lets break it down step by step again.

The first thing you'll want to do is to drain and collect your coolent. Many auto parts store sell kits for this, and they cost a couple hundred bucks. It may be worth it to buy. In any case, your access point for draining the coolent is here:


The following photo is supplied only to demonstrate what NOT to do. I'll also add, that you should never even consider doing this on Ozone Action Day:


Okay, now that you've used the proper kit and actually collected your coolent, you'll need to remove a few things to access the compressor.

Since the models are very similar under the hood, refer to the air intake housing removal procedure here:
http://www.astrosafari.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1142
Here's a tip: In this model we found 3 attachment points under the air filter. Also, use a punch to hold the centers in place as you pry up with a screwdriver. You'll avoid breaking them this way.

Next refer to the fan housing removal procedure, here:
http://www.astrosafari.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1143

Okay, you should now be able to work with the A/C Compressor. And you should be looking at something like this:


Remove the serpentine belt, as shown here:
http://www.astrosafari.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1144

There are four bolts holding it in, 2 in the front and 2 in the back. They all have 13 mm heads. Remove the front passenger side bolt first and get that cross member out of your way.

Remove the bolt holding the oil addition tube, and move the tube out of your way. I can't remember, but I think it's 10 or 11 mm. Either way what I'm talking about is behind and below the cross member in this photo:


Don't worry if you knock the oil addition tube out of its hole. It fits into a rubber gasketed hole on top of the engine. You'll be able to slip it back in once the compressor is out of the way.

There are two coolent lines going into the top of the unit, and they are held in by a bolt with a 15mm head. Better to loosen this bolt prior to pulling the 4 bolts holding the compressor in. It is tight, as is the space to do this. You'll want to move oil addition tube out of the way, and pull the lines away as far as you can. No photo, sorry.

Again, there were four bolts holding it in, 2 in the front and 2 in the back. The bolt heads are 13 mm heads. Space is incredibly tight, and you'll need extentions and a universal socket joint (swivel socket). Break the bolts loose with WD40 or PB Blaster if you need to, and use a straight socket with breaker or pipe. Then you can use the extensions and universal joint to just spin them out.


Next pull out the unit, and you'll a wiring connection on the back of it. Dislodge it with a screwdriver (depressing the clip). Then remove the unit.

Save all your bolts, and the compressor for when you actually wish to replace it. You'll need the bolts for then, and there will be a core charge on the new compressor--you don't want to eat that... Also make sure you have the correct size bolts--the ones that come with may not fit. An assorted bolt kit may be worth the purchase so you don't get stuck in the middle of the job. Luckily, I had enough bolts laying around the garage. Also, remember that bolt from the tubing in the top of the unit? It fits in the mounting holes too...



Re-seat the belt, put it all back together, and your done!
 
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#3 ·
I hope nobody takes this wrong, but it is much simplier than this.

Just below the AC compressor pulley there is a threaded boss at about 7:00 o'clock (looking at your last picture) that is there for the AC delete pulley. You can buy the pulley for about $30 and get a non-AC serpentine belt and install them in about 1/2 hour WITHOUT removing the AC compressor. You will have to remove the air filter box and upper fan shroud to do the work, but that's about all.

Hope that helps.
 
#5 ·
chemist ,,,,Do you have a part # for this AC delete pulley ?
I imagine having this part on there also makes it easy to remove the drivers side valve cover if needed.
I hate having to loosen the accessory belt bracket and pull it forward to get the valve cover off because the AC compressor is in the way
Thanks
 
#7 ·
'cudapaul said:
I hope nobody takes this wrong, but it is much simplier than this.

Just below the AC compressor pulley there is a threaded boss at about 7:00 o'clock (looking at your last picture) that is there for the AC delete pulley. You can buy the pulley for about $30 and get a non-AC serpentine belt and install them in about 1/2 hour WITHOUT removing the AC compressor. You will have to remove the air filter box and upper fan shroud to do the work, but that's about all.

Hope that helps.
Here's a picture of it
 

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#8 ·
Just a side question.... Any noticable performance increase with it gone? I am going to go electric on the fan and have entertained the the idea of removing the A/C too to free up drag there too. I know.... I wont have defrosters. I'm in LA....I havent used my defrosters in years and havent used the A/C ever. I'm 5 miles from the beach for cryin out loud!
 
#9 ·
Woodweasel said:
Just a side question.... Any noticable performance increase with it gone? I am going to go electric on the fan and have entertained the the idea of removing the A/C too to free up drag there too. I know.... I wont have defrosters. I'm in LA....I havent used my defrosters in years and havent used the A/C ever. I'm 5 miles from the beach for cryin out loud!
What "drag"? Go take your belt off and spin the pulley - see if you feel much drag. Manufacturers are pretty careful about their bearings by this point because smooth ones let them run higher CAFE numbers.

Obviously the belt has to compress slightly as it bends around the compressor pulley, but replacing it with a similar pulley will not eliminate that issue. It also takes a certain amount of energy also to keep the compressor pulley rolling - a lighter and smaller "delete" pulley would require a little less energy to spin, but owing to the smaller radius the belt would have to change direction over less linear distance and the belt-compression thing would lessen the benefit somewhat.

Basically, yanking your AC Comp will net you about as much Awesome Performance Gain as swapping out your platinum plugs for $15 iridium ones... or, in other words, nothing in the least bit significant. I have a little suspicion you don't have access to a refrigerant recovery machine, and any attempt you make to improve performance by deleting your compressor will 1. not help 2. waste money 3. harm the environment and 4. lower your vehicle's resale value.

If you want heightened performance, yank all your back seats, the carpet, the headliner, the stereo system, etc. and never drive around with more than a quarter tank of gas. The reduction in energy lost to friction, in addition to the lower net kinetic energy the engine must impart to the van to reach a given speed, will make for a somewhat "peppier" Astro.
 
#13 ·
chevymaher said:
Yea that sounds pretty gruesome.Hose that baby down with some PB Blaster spray oil of any kind see if it settles down.Yea I would be fixin that quick.Before it eats the belt.Stuff like that it could take a while to finnish itself off, or it could be tommorrow.
The sound come on and off... I've made a 5-10 minutes ride and the sound went away... I'll order the bypass pulley to replace the AC compressor. Would Jig-a-loo be OK to hose that baby down?
 
#14 ·
kylegap said:
chevymaher said:
Yea that sounds pretty gruesome.Hose that baby down with some PB Blaster spray oil of any kind see if it settles down.Yea I would be fixin that quick.Before it eats the belt.Stuff like that it could take a while to finnish itself off, or it could be tommorrow.
The sound come on and off... I've made a 5-10 minutes ride and the sound went away... I'll order the bypass pulley to replace the AC compressor. Would Jig-a-loo be OK to hose that baby down?
It silicoln that would work.Mine was like that rusted from being in a junk yard in a van with no hood or fenders.It made a full recovery.If it locks up the compressor will just turn.Being empty thats when your time running short.It will shred that pump inside.Really it should be good for a while I have run em that way.Till the wheels fall off as they say.
 
#15 ·
chevymaher said:
kylegap said:
chevymaher said:
Yea that sounds pretty gruesome.Hose that baby down with some PB Blaster spray oil of any kind see if it settles down.Yea I would be fixin that quick.Before it eats the belt.Stuff like that it could take a while to finnish itself off, or it could be tommorrow.
The sound come on and off... I've made a 5-10 minutes ride and the sound went away... I'll order the bypass pulley to replace the AC compressor. Would Jig-a-loo be OK to hose that baby down?
It silicoln that would work.Mine was like that rusted from being in a junk yard in a van with no hood or fenders.It made a full recovery.If it locks up the compressor will just turn.Being empty thats when your time running short.It will shred that pump inside.Really it should be good for a while I have run em that way.Till the wheels fall off as they say.
What you mean exactly? What do I need to do for a full recovery like you said? I just have to jig-a-loo the pulley? Or I need to do something more?
 
#16 ·
kylegap said:
What you mean exactly? What do I need to do for a full recovery like you said? I just have to jig-a-loo the pulley? Or I need to do something more?
Mine was rusted to where it would not disengage when I got it.I smacked it with a hammer and it broke loose.But it sounded horrible when the air was off.Knocking screaming type sound.I had planned on just running the air all the time till summer over then putting back the original non-working compressor.I sprayed it repeatedly with PB Blaster and silicon spray and it finally got quiet as a mouse.That was 2 years ago and it works perfectly now.It a fluke of nature I am sure.I just saying lubing it will limp yours along till you can fix it right.Really I am as confused as the next guy why mine still working knock on wood.20 bucks for a literal junk compressor worked for me. I would not count on it fixing it though. If it does it would be 2 miracles because I never expected it to work on mine.
 
#17 ·
OK, I spent a cold day on Oct 5 replacing my water pump as it gave out with NO warning. SO, I decided to do the A/C bypass thing as well.
Well, when you purchase the idler pulley from parts places, at least here in Canada (this would include Canadian Tire, Napa Canada, and Lordco) it does NOT come with the spacer/bolt hardware. The pulley was 22 bucks, but NOTHING to put it in with. At our local GM Dealership they wanted 70+ bucks to get the WHOLE Kit. SO, I travelled to the local wrecker and discovered that the OTHER idler pulley, the steel wheel pulley, used the same hardware. Bolt, Spacer which goes in back of the pulley, and front concave washer all fit the new pulley just beautiful.

Here's a pic


Here's the link to the pic if it doesn't show.....

 
#20 ·
#24 ·
A few months a ago my A/C clutch started going on my '98 Safari, then last week the pulley started grinding :(. So this morning I did this a/c bypass with the delete pulley and belt on my van. I'm very pleased with the results and just how fast it was to complete the task!

:text-thankyouyellow: For this great solution guys to a broken and almost seized up A/C pump!
 
#25 ·
deleteitall said:
trader969 said:
does anyone know the model number of the ac delete pully and the non ac serpentine hose, I want the pully that screws into the ac compressor, so i dont have to remove it. Thanks
non-a/c idler pulley - ACDelco 12580772 (comes with bolt)
http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-12580772- ... o+12580772" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

non-a/c serpentine belt - ACDelco 6K870 88932770
http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-6K870-Fan ... 0+88932770" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Thanks for these links. Does anyone know the torque specs for the pulley bolt?
 
#26 ·
I want your Original Compressor, I've been rebuilding them. My success has been excellent with regards to the Compressor Function, The rest of my system (Dual Zone AC) needs additional repairs. The CORRECT part numbers for the replacement AC Lines are difficult to track down. I have big box (New AC lInes) arriving tomorrow $$$
, Hide it from the "Wife"!!!
While the AC repairs aren't cheap, I want My AC!
God Bless the United States of America. Happy and Safe 4th of July everybody.
MattB.
 
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