If your van has air conditioning, there may come a point when the compressor dies or the clutch goes. At that point it can lock and shred your serpentine belt. In the case of my friend, his clutch went. We suspect the compressor had locked as well based on the fact the belt squealed and smoked before the clutch went. Then it made a horrid grinding noise as the clutch rattled and shredded itself against the pulley. Since cash was a little short, and it's closing on winter, a bypass was decided as a temporary fix. So, here goes:
On first glance, this looks like an incredibly daunting task. Almost like some better left to a garage who will happily charge you several hundred dollars. Here's what I'm talking about:
It's not so bad, lets break it down step by step again.
The first thing you'll want to do is to drain and collect your coolent. Many auto parts store sell kits for this, and they cost a couple hundred bucks. It may be worth it to buy. In any case, your access point for draining the coolent is here:
The following photo is supplied only to demonstrate what NOT to do. I'll also add, that you should never even consider doing this on Ozone Action Day:
Okay, now that you've used the proper kit and actually collected your coolent, you'll need to remove a few things to access the compressor.
Since the models are very similar under the hood, refer to the air intake housing removal procedure here:
http://www.astrosafari.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1142
Here's a tip: In this model we found 3 attachment points under the air filter. Also, use a punch to hold the centers in place as you pry up with a screwdriver. You'll avoid breaking them this way.
Next refer to the fan housing removal procedure, here:
http://www.astrosafari.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1143
Okay, you should now be able to work with the A/C Compressor. And you should be looking at something like this:
Remove the serpentine belt, as shown here:
http://www.astrosafari.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1144
There are four bolts holding it in, 2 in the front and 2 in the back. They all have 13 mm heads. Remove the front passenger side bolt first and get that cross member out of your way.
Remove the bolt holding the oil addition tube, and move the tube out of your way. I can't remember, but I think it's 10 or 11 mm. Either way what I'm talking about is behind and below the cross member in this photo:
Don't worry if you knock the oil addition tube out of its hole. It fits into a rubber gasketed hole on top of the engine. You'll be able to slip it back in once the compressor is out of the way.
There are two coolent lines going into the top of the unit, and they are held in by a bolt with a 15mm head. Better to loosen this bolt prior to pulling the 4 bolts holding the compressor in. It is tight, as is the space to do this. You'll want to move oil addition tube out of the way, and pull the lines away as far as you can. No photo, sorry.
Again, there were four bolts holding it in, 2 in the front and 2 in the back. The bolt heads are 13 mm heads. Space is incredibly tight, and you'll need extentions and a universal socket joint (swivel socket). Break the bolts loose with WD40 or PB Blaster if you need to, and use a straight socket with breaker or pipe. Then you can use the extensions and universal joint to just spin them out.
Next pull out the unit, and you'll a wiring connection on the back of it. Dislodge it with a screwdriver (depressing the clip). Then remove the unit.
Save all your bolts, and the compressor for when you actually wish to replace it. You'll need the bolts for then, and there will be a core charge on the new compressor--you don't want to eat that... Also make sure you have the correct size bolts--the ones that come with may not fit. An assorted bolt kit may be worth the purchase so you don't get stuck in the middle of the job. Luckily, I had enough bolts laying around the garage. Also, remember that bolt from the tubing in the top of the unit? It fits in the mounting holes too...
Re-seat the belt, put it all back together, and your done!
On first glance, this looks like an incredibly daunting task. Almost like some better left to a garage who will happily charge you several hundred dollars. Here's what I'm talking about:
It's not so bad, lets break it down step by step again.
The first thing you'll want to do is to drain and collect your coolent. Many auto parts store sell kits for this, and they cost a couple hundred bucks. It may be worth it to buy. In any case, your access point for draining the coolent is here:
The following photo is supplied only to demonstrate what NOT to do. I'll also add, that you should never even consider doing this on Ozone Action Day:
Okay, now that you've used the proper kit and actually collected your coolent, you'll need to remove a few things to access the compressor.
Since the models are very similar under the hood, refer to the air intake housing removal procedure here:
http://www.astrosafari.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1142
Here's a tip: In this model we found 3 attachment points under the air filter. Also, use a punch to hold the centers in place as you pry up with a screwdriver. You'll avoid breaking them this way.
Next refer to the fan housing removal procedure, here:
http://www.astrosafari.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1143
Okay, you should now be able to work with the A/C Compressor. And you should be looking at something like this:
Remove the serpentine belt, as shown here:
http://www.astrosafari.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1144
There are four bolts holding it in, 2 in the front and 2 in the back. They all have 13 mm heads. Remove the front passenger side bolt first and get that cross member out of your way.
Remove the bolt holding the oil addition tube, and move the tube out of your way. I can't remember, but I think it's 10 or 11 mm. Either way what I'm talking about is behind and below the cross member in this photo:
Don't worry if you knock the oil addition tube out of its hole. It fits into a rubber gasketed hole on top of the engine. You'll be able to slip it back in once the compressor is out of the way.
There are two coolent lines going into the top of the unit, and they are held in by a bolt with a 15mm head. Better to loosen this bolt prior to pulling the 4 bolts holding the compressor in. It is tight, as is the space to do this. You'll want to move oil addition tube out of the way, and pull the lines away as far as you can. No photo, sorry.
Again, there were four bolts holding it in, 2 in the front and 2 in the back. The bolt heads are 13 mm heads. Space is incredibly tight, and you'll need extentions and a universal socket joint (swivel socket). Break the bolts loose with WD40 or PB Blaster if you need to, and use a straight socket with breaker or pipe. Then you can use the extensions and universal joint to just spin them out.
Next pull out the unit, and you'll a wiring connection on the back of it. Dislodge it with a screwdriver (depressing the clip). Then remove the unit.
Save all your bolts, and the compressor for when you actually wish to replace it. You'll need the bolts for then, and there will be a core charge on the new compressor--you don't want to eat that... Also make sure you have the correct size bolts--the ones that come with may not fit. An assorted bolt kit may be worth the purchase so you don't get stuck in the middle of the job. Luckily, I had enough bolts laying around the garage. Also, remember that bolt from the tubing in the top of the unit? It fits in the mounting holes too...
Re-seat the belt, put it all back together, and your done!