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Can I run more then one heater core in series?

3K views 22 replies 11 participants last post by  TaxiVan 
#1 ·
2002 camper van
I was thinking of building a insulated box , putting water jerry cans in it , pumping some heat In now and then from a thermostat controlled propane heater , also would have 2 thermostat controlled 12 volt headlights to generate heat in the box .
started thinking I could also include about 10 heater cores and fans in series controlled by one switch to use and store some of the heat that would've gone to waste when idling or driving .
This is' nt going to cause no problems is it?
I would also have a switch to cut off the water flow to all these heater cores in the summer.
 
#2 ·
Why not try a piece of baseboard heat ? or something like a radiator from the same type of system ?

Think out of the box...

Uncle Bob
 
#5 ·
So it sounds like you do not believe Al Gore aye? You must be from the frozen north (sorry).
More than heater core can be put in series but remember to insulate the lines going back if run under the vehicle as driving in the snow will cool the stuff before it gets to the back heater. If you make the back first come first served with hot water then your front core will be getting the cold return.
I know some of the old Antique cars and trucks had a nice heater that would just bolt to the fire wall and had two lines going through to the engine. You can also get different degree thermostat.
With an astro van the fire wall is already stuffed with too much stuff. The old VW vagavans had a gas heater in the rear drivers side if you can find one in a use auto parts yard (politely saying junk yard)
Do not put a wood stove as it will burn up the oxygen and cause too much film on the inside of your windows resulting in loss of vision. you could run with the windows down to prevent above problem but I think that would defeat the purpose of an auxrillery heater.
 
#7 ·
97cargocrawler said:
Say whaaaaat? What's the purpose? You want hot water for something?

Of course you can put 10 heater cores ins series....if you want 10X the leak possibilities and tons of heat when you don't really want it.
I'm trying to come up with a system to keep my water from freezing when boondocking/camping in the winter.
 
#9 ·
Are you talking about drinking/ shower wash water? there are many camper vans of many makes with water heaters like a small hot water tank I had one in a van I bought for parts it too the water from the fresh water tank under the van and would heat it via 12volt element. I guess it worked ok? I never used the van except for the motor transmission steering box ect I did save the fresh water tank to compartmentalize to separate the hydrogen and oxygen chambers to use never finished the project but have all the parts to finish. No time ARRRGGGGHHH!!!. to keep your water from freezing I would use the foil bubble bubble foil insulation I have my complete shop covered with it and my AC/ heating bill is very low I believe if you use that inside a box that would hold you water bladder it wouldn't freeze just use a small resistance heater with good adjustable thermostat to keep the area inside at least 40 degrees it would drain your battery quickly with out some kind of temp control.
The foil bubble bubble foil insulation can be found at about any farm supply and is cheap on line I bought 5 rolls for about $30.00 a roll to completely cover my 24X24 foot garage. I hope this helps with out my usual wize cracks.
I can send a simple schematic of the electrical with parts identified as soon as wife gets out of hospital next month (we hope)
 
#11 ·
Astrosport said:
How about just using one engine radiator instead of all the heater cores?
You would have one HELL of a time trying to burp the system, if you could burp it at all.

Old Barney said:
...via 12volt element.
This is FAR more feasible, and more realistic.

Personal opinion:
If you are trying to insulate the water from the element, I would use a regular cooler. Or design something similar. Even though we call them "coolers", the insulation in those things can be equally handy for keeping things warm. Who wants a beer from the "heater"?? That should keep the water from becoming an ice cube. A showering system, in general, is going to be challenging. A showering system to withstand freezing conditions, is going to be hard, no matter how you look at it. If you do a little searching CargoCrawler has a shower system, a VERY complex system, installed. I don't know if he planned on showering in the snow, but it is an eye opener if you haven't thought of the whole process. My planned shower system will be basic, but effective.... Admittedly, I never thought about showering in the snow, even thought I have planned on being able to play in it. That is a factor I will have to think over, WHEN i'm ready to build my shower system.

Best of luck with your design, and keep us posted. I'm bound to learn from it,
~Junior
 
#13 ·
Lumpy said:
The British.
Lump
I've been told from my roommate, who is from The Netherlands. Not to knock the warm British beer, he says it's actually good. Not like a Belgium beer, or German. But it is good.

So i'm told,
~Junior
 
#15 ·
jrsride2002 said:
Lumpy said:
The British.
Lump
I've been told from my roommate, who is from The Netherlands. Not to knock the warm British beer, he says it's actually good. Not like a Belgium beer, or German. But it is good.

So i'm told,
~Junior
Indeed it all depends on the beer.
 
#16 ·
jrsride2002 said:
Astrosport said:
If you do a little searching CargoCrawler has a shower system, a VERY complex system, installed. I don't know if he planned on showering in the snow, but it is an eye opener if you haven't thought of the whole process.
Actually I have been pondering ways to melt snow while the engine is running and heating my water. Nice fresh water refill. I suppose the exhaust pipe could be useful for this. A little tray with a drain bolted to the CAT or muffler outta do it. Only trick is to find some moron willing to shovel pile after pile onto the tray. All of my hoses and tanks are conveniently above the exhaust pipe...so if they freeze, hopefully I can heat them up easily. I am contemplating heating blankets in the near future to help...but those F'ers cost as much as gold.

Anyhow, a simple heat exchanger using the engine coolant should heat any amount of water you want. Obviously with any system you chose keeping the water from freezing while the engine is off might be impossible. For that you may need heating blankets and a lot of house battery. Or keep all the water pipes inside the van and run the coolant hoses from the engine up into the cab. With two shutoff valves you can keep the heat out of the cab when not needed. I suggest tapping into the heater core hoses like I did. You can buy premade heat exchanger or look on youtube on how to make your own.

My system is complex because I wanted to be able to suck water from puddles to refill my tanks. Even then its fairly simple, just creates a huge mess of hoses and valves.
 
#17 ·
I don't think you are going to store enough heat from the engine in a bunch of heater cores to make the space used worth the outcome. You'd be adding a tonne of extra weight and complexity to a system that could be made much more simple. Why not just get yourself the heater element used for seat heaters and put them on the bottom of the tank ( underneath it ) with appropriate cushioning so you don't damage it. Then it's just a matter of running the elements off of the battery ( a separate one ) so you don't end up stuck with a dead starting battery.
 
#21 ·
I just remembered there are use RV parts yards also. I have one about 8 miles from were I live you may want to ask around your area for an RV bone yard. There you could tear one apart and observe the water system used in one of those things. I have seen a few wrecks involving RV's so there should be a used parts place near you maybe? Here in Floiduh we have "snow birds" rich folks who retire buy a huge house and drive to Floriduh and inexperienced RV drivers are occasionally involved in a serious mishaps.
 
#23 ·
On the semis I drive, we use what they call an "Espar" heater. These are primarily battery powered, though I think the electricity powers a secondary system. I can tell you from experience they work well and are reliable. They seem to be fairly plug-and-play, though I'm not sure what it would take to set it up. Might check to see if any semi salvage yards are in your area. I would call a reputable dealer of manufacturers that use them (such as Freightliner, Peterbilt, Volvo) to see what the specifics are. If you go this route, look for an "over-the-road" truck that has a sleeper. A "day-cab" without the sleeper will not have this option. Most trucks have a battery protection that cuts off power when voltage is getting critical to allow the engine to be cranked, which could also possibly be swapped.

Espar Heater.gif


There is another type of system that employs what is called an Automatic Power Unit (fancy name for a generator). It provides power for a standalone climate control system that usually is built into the back of the sleeper, which may be another option for transplant. Internationals will have these on the passenger side of the sleeper. Other manufacturers will have it on the back of the sleeper near the exhaust. Hope this gives you an idea that will be less headache and more efficient... :)
 
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