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Safari AC compressor ports

1K views 7 replies 3 participants last post by  gordo999 
#1 ·
I have a thread going on various components of the 2001 Safari AC components I am inspecting and overhauling but this is an issue specifically related to the compressor.

The compressor I have is a Four Seasons H6 replacement, model 57949. When I installed it, I did it from the front of the vehicle. Besides the mounting bolts, the 12 volts power connector for the clutch, and the high pressure switch on the back, the only other connection to the compressor is the mechanical assembly that mounts the tubes carrying refrigerant to and from the compressor.

The suction side inlet port, as it is called, is the low pressure intake from the accumulator/dryer. It's on the right as you view it from the front of the vehicle. The outlet port, or high side port, connects directly to the condenser via a hose/tubing conduit. Where the outlet meets the inlet port, they are connected mechanically by a rigid piece of metal that has a bolts hole in the middle by which the tubes are clamped to the inlet/outlet ports.

So, you have to attach both the inlet and outlet ports as a unit. Installing from the front of the van my sight lines were not good. However, both tubes seemed to go on OK and I just tightened the retaining bolt. There were no apparent leaks during more than a year of operation.

Today, as I took the inlet/outlet combo off from the doghouse end, I noticed the inlet port end was sitting higher than the outlet port by close to 1/8th inch. That immediately concerned me, thinking I had not installed it correctly in the first place. However, when I pulled the tubing/hose assembly right out, it became apparent that the inlet/outlet is offset.

Here's a photo of the entire compressor:

Safari AC compressor.jpg


Here's a close up of the ports from the side:

Safari AC compressor Hi_Lo ports.jpg


And here is an overhead of the ports:

Safari Hi_Lo ports above.jpg


Note on the side-view close up of the ports that the well in the outlet port is significantly deeper than the well on the inlet (suction) port.

I have never seen engineering like this before and I am wondering if the re-manufactured compressor is different than the AC Delco H6 with respect to the inlet/outlet ports.

Anyone know?

Also, there doesn't seem to be any O-rings used in either port.
 
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#3 ·
WoodButcher said:
IIRC my '93 was like that. The new compressor came with two sets of sealing washers of different thickness for different applications.
Thanks for info, Woody. Mine did not come with anything, although it was seal-wrapped with minimal instructions.

There was nothing about the high pressure switch on the back, I had to figure that out for myself. There's a C-ring on the back and reveals an open cavity when removed. I noted the same opening on my old one with a C-ring, so I took it out and removed what was in there, moving it to the new unit.

All this done at my 6" high workbench by the side of the road.
 
#5 ·
WoodButcher said:
Why do the AC on the road?

I had to find the 4 seasons website, got a phone number and spoke to someone about that high pressure switch.
I'm living with people and the driveway has priorities. It's a long story.

I have been on the 4 seasons website and they do supply a lot of useful info. I spoke to one rep but he was not from 4 seasons according to his email addy. He also supplied useful information about adding PAG oil, suggesting half (4 oz) in the compressor inlet port and the rest in the accumulator dryer, for a bone dry system. After adding oil to the compressor, it has to be turned manually a dozen times to move the oil around. Otherwise it could cause pooling problems.

I was dubious about pouring oil into the accumulator since there is a dessicant bag in there for drying the refrigerant but an article on the 4S site confirmed that. I have also seen advice suggestion the compressor be drained and the volume measured, then adding a certain amount to the compressor with the rest divided between the evaporator, condenser, hoses, and accumulator.

BTW...took my condenser out last night and found a pinhole leak while swishing solvent around inside it. I was holding it upside down after swishing, with my finger over the inlet where I had poured the solvent, and solvent was running out of the joint between the inlet pipe and the condenser body.

Don't want to mess with a flame around there after using solvent (there are aluminum brazing rods available that work with a propane torch) so I am looking at JB Weld or better. I'm thinking of cleaning up the aluminum with a wire brush to remove oxide, roughening it, cleaning it with brake cleaner then applying a generous patch of JB Weld right around the area.
 
#7 ·
Zebediah III said:
WoodButcher said:
IIRC my '93 was like that. The new compressor came with two sets of sealing washers of different thickness for different applications.
Exactly as I have seen on many older ones.
I checked with a local parts retailer today and he was stymied by the fact that they don't even list an AC O-ring/gasket kit for the 2001 Safari.

I was at a Canadian Walmart the other day because they were selling single tire quantities for winter tires. I just need the one. However, he said they don't install the 215/75R15 tire anymore. I thought he was full of beans. Why would a tire dealer not install a tire on a 15" rim?

I'll check with NAPA on Monday for an o-ring kit.

A local GM dealer has the o-rings but you have to ID each o-ring you want.

Here's a photo of the system that shows each o-ring/gasket. The layout is mainly like mine except for the condenser. Mine has a crosspipe from the hose/tube marked 1 going through gasket marked 8. in other words. on my condenser, both the inlet and outlet ports are on the same side.

Safari AC showing o-rings.jpg


Note at the compressor inlet/outlet ports there are gaskets marked 7. Mine has no such gaskets unless they are pressed into the seats in the compressor. O-rings marked 8 and 13 at the condenser are small black o-rings on mine. Same for o-ring (13) on other side of pipe with high pressure Schrader valve going to the evaporator.

The only other o-ring I can see is 3, between the accumulator and the vertical canister muffler on the end of pipe 1. There is one marked 11 on the high pressure Schrader valve but I was not about to monkey with it.
 
#8 ·
Now I'm even more confused. Went to the GM dealer and they gave me a part (15-338980) marked as a seal. There are two seals in the package, both with ID = 0.62", OD = 0.92" and thickness about 0.04", tapering up to a ridge of about 0.07" on either side of each seal.

The ridge on either side of each washer has an OD = 0.075" and the ridge tapers from the 0.75" OD up to a maximum height at about 0.07" diameter, then tapers back down to the ID of 0.62". It seems obvious that the ridge is designed to compress.

Looking up the part # alone, there are reference to the evaporator seal but the instructions with the seals are clearly talking about the compressor.

Here's what the instructions say:

1)Install sealing washer onto pilots of suction/discharge block fitting. Washers must bottom against surface of block fitting.

my question...what are pilots? I have seen them referenced elsewhere and they seem to be inserts that are pressed into something.

2)Install hose block to the compressor making sure the sealing washers are seated within the compressor machined surfaces.

3)Hold block in place, hand tighten hose block fastener.

4)Torque hose block fastener to 34 Nm (25 ft-lb). If correct washer kit was used, there should be a 1.2 mm space between the suction/discharge hose block and the compressor rear head.

my question...how can there be a 1.2mm space left after torquing when the seats are already more than that distance different to begin with?

Then it says:

Inserts:

1)Rigidly support suction/discharge hose block and tap aluminum inserts into block until seated.

2)Install sealing washers per above instructions.

Then there is a note to see reverse side:

On the reverse side the instructions may as well be written in Greek. There is a table with sealing washer kit part numbers and not one corresponds to the numbers on the package from a GM dealer.

The only reference I can see is one to a 5/8" sealing washers 52418596. That is referenced as sealing washer part number 6571623 and 52390927. It's for all compressors starting 1992 with 5/8" suction ports.
 
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