That time of year where it's getting hot, and I'm noticing my a/c doesn't work. Threw in some 134 with dye and busted out the uv. Compressor was cracked at the seam. So, get a new compressor, put that in, fill and charge, and now there's a very glowy puddle right under the van. Crawled under to take a quick look, and it seems that the leak is pretty high up from that way, dead center over the front driveshaft...or at least running and dripping right there. Guessing I'd have a good view if I took the cover off again, but I just got done with putting it on, lol. Asked my a/c guy, and he just recommended eliminating the rear, but he's not the kind of guy to talk you through it unfortunately.
So anyways, wondering if anybody else has eliminated the rear, or fixed this problem. Think it's a hard leak to get to? I'd rather repair it, but like keeping my options open if it's starting to look too pricey.
Better pull cover back off so you can see where the leak is exactly. I wouldnt remove the rear a/c, a new line if necessary isnt all that expensive. The lines out the back of the compressor would be above where the front driveshaft is.
The rear ac suction line ( the larger line of the 2) would be the easiest to replace the 1st connection is in the dog house at the rear left of the engine and the 2nd one is under the van on the drivers side of the transmission . Now the high side line ( the smaller of the 2) would be a pain to replace. the first connection is under the hood by the heater box. It follows the rear heater hoses routing from under the heater box to over the trans bell housing and has another connection over the drivers side rear of the trans. You may or may not have the 2nd connections over the rear of the trans. Mine is a conversion van so it may a little be different.
From the little I've looked at under the car, I've seen that there are sections of lines. Browsing part stores, I'm not seeing saying anything like that. Just seeing the two lines off the compressor, one has one line on one side, one on the other, the other one has the Y on one side.
Going to have to dig up a full diagram when I get to my computer tomorrow before I get back into it...never have don't much with ac before
To keep cost down your best bet would be a salvage yard. Most all auto parts stores stock the rubber hose sets, but very few stock the metal lines. You might be able to source a set online pretty cheap though.
Hit 90 today, so I just went the easy way, eliminate the rear. Doorman parts 900-885 and 900-883 I believe, total cost of $50 and went that route. Took about 45 minutes to cut, plug, charge and test lol
Well that good you got it going. If you don't really haul around a lot of passengers in the rear it wont really matter anyway. I used to run my rear ac when it was just me in the van but I couldn't really notice much difference in cooling. Besides running it took away from the front cooling. I get colder temps out the vents with the rear ac turned off. But then again mine is also a up fitter supplied pro-air brand rear ac.
Hit 90 today, so I just went the easy way, eliminate the rear. Doorman parts 900-885 and 900-883 I believe, total cost of $50 and went that route. Took about 45 minutes to cut, plug, charge and test lol
I have had the same problem and the local garage capped off the smaller "high side" aluminum tube. They soldered the end of the tube where they cut if off. The soldering has failed twice now and they are going to try a 3rd time. Is there another (better!) way to do it?
I have had the same problem and the local garage capped off the smaller "high side" aluminum tube. They soldered the end of the tube where they cut if off. The soldering has failed twice now and they are going to try a 3rd time. Is there another (better!) way to do it?
I shoulda checked with the forum after the first failure. As cheymaher suggests the best way to do this job is to just replace the whole premanufactured manifold and lines. The truck is back at the same garage now and they're going to try a Dorman 800-993 cap instead of soldering. Hope this works but if not, I'm not going to mess around anymore and buy the manifold system ....and take it to another garage for the install and refridgerant work.
Here is a photo of the failed repair. The garage said that they crimped the line and soldered the end. I didn't think that silver solder worked with aluminum.
Exactly what I thought...copper only. I don't think there is a "solder" that works with aluminum. There is an aluminum brazing rod but unless the aluminum surfaces are absolutely clean, there will be no bond. How would you get the inside of the tube wire brushed? Also, you've got to heat the aluminum to 750 F.
When you take your vehicle to a garage you hope that they know what they are doing or at least give them the benefit of the doubt. But looks like I put my trust in the wrong place. All I can say is when you hear "we are trying to this to save you money", that's a red flag. There are garages that replace too much and there are garages that mickey mouse things. Dealers don't want to work on the old stuff because of the challenges. I really wish I could find a knowledgeable, trustworthy garage!
By now, with all the leaks and rework, it seems like getting rid of the hose that you wanted plugged is a good idea.
I don't know if this would work here...but it should.
If the threaded fitting were still on you could have found a threaded cap. More than likely it's a tapered or flared connection.
If the pipe were straight with no bends in it you could use a micrometer to measure the outside diameter of the tube then cross reference to a compression fitting. One with a 'nut' that goes on first, followed by a brass ring...on the tube. Then the cap goes on. Gas lines are done this way.
You could flare the end like for soft copper or double flare like for brake lines.
Or...take some time going over the diagrams at Rock Auto and find the hose/tube setup for your vehicle that doesn't have the rear AC. If I recall yours should be around $80 brand new. I wouldn't be likely to get a junkyard setup for something like this...that's just me.
Sorry, but I (personally) think this would be very unfortunate... especially for just a bad hose.
I find my rear A/C extremely beneficially on cooling down my van on a hot summer day!
Mage42384 said:
I'd rather repair it, but like keeping my options open if it's starting to look too pricey.
Sadly... sometimes we just have to do the best we can ... good luck.
Side note: I've read it is suggested if you have dual front/rear air, that the front will actually run colder if you run the rear as well. This has been the case for me.
For those that say the rear doesn't do much... my own experience says that is ridiculous. My front and rear air can really bring down the inside temps on a hot summer July day! When it starts getting too cold in my van (with ice cold air blowing directly on you) ... I often run the front on low defrost and run the rear mostly. This usually provides a GREAT balanced environment. I've known people who went to great measures to ADD a rear unit... but never knew anyone who would remove one. Maybe we're different here in South Florida where A/C is a blessed essential!
Exactly most of the time you are talking to the service writer. Not the actual mechanic
Ive found they dont communicate very well
Service writer tells you what you want to hear
While the mechanic is saying different to the service writer!
Here is a photo of the failed repair. The garage said that they crimped the line and soldered the end. I didn't think that silver solder worked with aluminum.
Off topic, but could anyone tell me what the pipe running inside the coiled spring is next to the crimped off A/C line in GuyS's photo? I have several short sections that vibrate under my van when I hit small bumps, looking to wedge something against it like a small piece of hose, wasn't sure what the function of the coil was. Thanks
Off topic, but could anyone tell me what the pipe running inside the coiled spring is next to the crimped off A/C line in GuyS's photo? I have several short sections that vibrate under my van when I hit small bumps, looking to wedge something against it like a small piece of hose, wasn't sure what the function of the coil was. Thanks
True that - The Spousal Unit hangs a side of beef in The Van sometimes when we're on the road, but if we have to run Rear Air, she'll protect it from freezer burn with a burlap Bag.
:2:
Mike
ps: now if I could just get that Vacuum line fixed, I could feel my toes again ...
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