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hotrodding the 4.3 V6 (tips & tricks)

224K views 190 replies 52 participants last post by  sixsix 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
G'day, mates!

For those of you who have the venerable 4.3 v6, but want more power as well as throttle response this post is for you.

First off, I know how frustrating it is to have to work with all of the limitations built into the Astro engine: the small choked up t.b.i., or the weirdo c.p.i. "spider" intake manifold, mild cams, and weak ignitions, etc. :crying: There isn't one day that goes by that I don't think about how can I make my engine PERFORM better.

I will admit, a v-8 option SHOULD have been offered. As well as a turbo (look at the syclone/typhoon), or at LEAST take the tuned port intake (instead of cpi) and chop two ports off of it and tune it! (Would make an awesome project). But, since I rent an apartment, most projects HAVE to be done within a day or two.

So, most of these tips are Very doable with minimal downtime. 🍌 Also, throwing big money at hipo parts doesn't always pay off. (Not in this day and age, anyways) Only the parts that are reasonably priced will be mentioned.......

1. Ram-air: bringing in COOLER air makes it easier for the engine to make power. (Try driving your van without a/c with the windows up on a 90 degree day, your engine is in the same scenario ) This can be made at home with dryer ducting with an aluminum sheets and some clamps. Cheap Cheap! :dance:

2. K&N filter: (8-10 horsepower). If you are in a dusty area, add a foam filter as a buffer. Paper filters restrict your airflow and most people forget about them and they get progressively dirty.

3. Morosso or Proform Air cleaner base: smooths out the airflow and allows removal of the stock "restricter" ring underneath it. This thing is TERRIBLE for performance.


0000tbi choker.jpg

















4. Raise the TBI injector pod: this allows more air to get in past the injectors. Turbo city has some goodies. View attachment 4 This spacer/gasket raises the injector pod 1/4". I raised mine to 1". :layrubber:

5. Adjustable fuel pressure regulator: Add more air, add more fuel. Raising your fuel pressure on late models is akin to changing jets on a carb.

0 1000 cfm adjregulator.jpg


6. Fuel pressure gauge: for proper fuel pressure tuning. I set mine to 15 psi. these are fairly cheap.

7. Throttle spring modification: Removal of the stock throttle spring, and replacing it with a SOFTER old-style return spring(s) will increase the opening speed and improve overall throttle response.

8. Throttle enhancer: Casper electronics has a piggyback sensor that when the throttle is at 70% open, it tricks the computer into thinking it's at 100% open, increasing throttle response. (This product DOES work very well, I have one on my Fiero as well)


0 1000 tps enhancer.jpg


9. Bigger TBI: Stick with the stock one...UNLESS you add an edelbrock aluminum intake with a 7.4 liter TBI with the 2" bores. ( This is just a backburner idea at most)

10.1" Throttlebody spacer : (fits under TBI) will add torque by increasing the intake volume. Swirl-type spacers also help mix the fuel and additional air before it's combusted. Unfortunately, swirl types don't work on CPIs....they're port-injected already. I currently have the helix 1 1" spacer. I thought I remembered seeing a 2" trandapt spacer years ago but, I think they discontinued it. Just a while ago, found out CFM technologies has a spacer that's supposed to allow the engine to pull air/fuel from either tbi bore (if it's a duel-plane), offering a more balanced air/fuel mix resulting in more power. Not sure if ours is a dual or single plane, but it's worth mentioning.

0 1000 supersucker.jpg


Most of these parts , together as a whole and with tuning, should net 20+ horsepower. :rockon:

This concludes part ONE for now..........stay tuned for more.

Thank you
 

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#2 ·
You know, I appreciate your efforts here. There are two very important things that should be mention, first.

Most importantly, proper maintenance. Not enough can be said for staying on top of the maintenance. That includes all fluids, tune-ups, tires, and just keeping everything clean.

Second, the exhaust. The most restrictive part of these vans (and many other cars out there) is the exhaust. It doesn't matter how much air and/or fuel you shove down the intake, if the exhaust holds it up, its all for not. Its the hourglass effect, weakest link in the chain, etc. A lot of people don't like headers but they are the best bang for your buck, period. But there is something else that can be done, replacing that stock catalytic convertor with an aftermarket version. All catalytic converters do the same thing but aftermarket versions flow 3, 4 or 5 times as much as the cheap stock equivalents.

:2:
 
#187 ·
You know, I appreciate your efforts here. There are two very important things that should be mention, first.

Most importantly, proper maintenance. Not enough can be said for staying on top of the maintenance. That includes all fluids, tune-ups, tires, and just keeping everything clean.

Second, the exhaust. The most restrictive part of these vans (and many other cars out there) is the exhaust. It doesn't matter how much air and/or fuel you shove down the intake, if the exhaust holds it up, its all for not. Its the hourglass effect, weakest link in the chain, etc. A lot of people don't like headers but they are the best bang for your buck, period. But there is something else that can be done, replacing that stock catalytic convertor with an aftermarket version. All catalytic converters do the same thing but aftermarket versions flow 3, 4 or 5 times as much as the cheap stock equivalents.

:2:
I like this idea..
 
#3 ·
Whats the recommended size exhaust piping for a mild 4.3L? 2.5" duals? Headers w/X-pipe or Y it into single exhaust?

Don't forget weight reduction! Remove those seats before you take on a C5 Corvette... :lol:
 
#4 ·
2.5" would probably work well enough.

I over-killed mine because that's what I had in the shop- shorty headers(unknown make) with 2.25 y-pipe into 3" pipe to the Cherry bomb extreme muff., and dual 2.5" out the back. It's noisy as ****, and the wife hates it!
 
#5 ·
gtkane said:
2.5" would probably work well enough.

I over-killed mine because that's what I had in the shop- shorty headers(unknown make) with 2.25 y-pipe into 3" pipe to the Cherry bomb extreme muff., and dual 2.5" out the back. It's noisy as ****, and the wife hates it!
:cheers:
 
#6 ·
I over-killed mine because that's what I had in the shop- shorty headers(unknown make) with 2.25 y-pipe into 3" pipe to the Cherry bomb extreme muff., and dual 2.5" out the back. It's noisy as ****, and the wife hates it!
TRUE THAT!!!! It sounds almost as bad as headers with sidepipes on a ASTRO...OH WAIT NEVERMIND! :rofl: just kidding 355, i had to say it cause i have headers with 2 1/2" with 24" turbotubes that goes straight out the back and i LOVE the sound, of course im not running one of the 4.3's..Id say a v-6 with large dual exhaust does sound like a obnoxious v-6 with dual exhaust...my :2:
 
#7 ·
Yes but the exhaust would have to be done right. True dual exhaust for a 4.3L would make it run worse. The exhaust flow would decrease because the exhaust would cool too quickly and slow down in the pipes. You would need a X-pipe at best to help with the scavenging and maintain some of the heat. The same thing would happen if too large of pipes were used.
 
#8 ·
Thanx 4 the props, astro 355! Actually, I mentioned that this was PART ONE of a series. Exhaust upgrades are TOO obvious (next to air filter upgrades). I'd rather start off with fairly low-buck tricks that are often over looked on a late model (sort of late ). :lol: As far as exhaust size 2 1/4 is the best. I like big exhaust too, but v-6s NEED that back-pressure for torque! Thankfully, my vans emissions exempt here in Michigan , dont need the cat. :dance: But, duals can help open her up. Avoid "turbo" mufflers of dubious design , as well as "one in two out" types (unless its from SLP)............STRAIGHT THRU only! A thrush "cherry-bomb" (25-30 bones), works very well with y-split duals on the year. I've used this set up for four years now, and its JUST now wearing out!!! Soundwise, sat right next to johnny 5 oh in traffic.....never pulled over for sound. :D I think the second "y" in the exhaust , muffles the sound a bit more before exiting. Anywho, onto part 2. :sci-fi-beamup:
 
#9 ·
The second wave of engine mods are fairly easy to do as well. (autozone, murrays's, advance auto etc. parking lot approved) :mrgreen: I'll cover fluids next..... (1.) Engine oil : ROAL PURPLE synthetic oil is a prerequisite for performance. (at least 8 horsepower.) Already tried MOBIL one, Amsoil, not impressed. :snooty: First day I used R.P., you could tell a difference. Albeit not earth shattering, but better! (2.) Engine coolant additive : REDLINE "Water wetter"
0 1000 water wetter.jpg
First used it in my 79 firebird back in 92'.....awesome. Dropped temp 20 degrees. Plus, it keeps your water pump lubed as well. Used it in my 86 fiero gt , and my 91 astro.......this stuff works! :thumbup: (3.) Fuel additive: REDLINE s1-1 fuel system cleaner.
0 1000 fuel system cleaner.jpg
Its measurable at fuel fill ups so you can use it over a longer time period. It keeps your engine clean, and upper cylinders lubed when running. It also lubes your injectors and fuel pump. (4.) FUEL: MOBIL or SHELL....I prefer MOBIL, all though both use high quality detergents in ALL there petrols. There are other brands that have additives in them as well (marathon/STP, texaco/ techron), but could be iffy. :mrgreen: (5.) TRANSFLUID : currently, using dexron 3, plus alittle LUCAS trans additive. Plan to upgrade this year to DEXRON 6 SYNTHETIC plus the NAPA brand trans lube additive. Read on a truck forum a trans mechanic, in passing. said that this is the BEST additive bar none for transmissions. Sorry, cant remember the actuall name......but NAPA makes it. ( A deeper t-pan and cooler would also benefit) (5.) GEAROIL : ROYAL PURPLE
0 1000 max gear oil.gif
duh. Synthetic 'nuff said. :blah: On to part THREE.
 
#10 ·
Welcome to the inner sanctum, mates.....this is your mission if you choose to accept it. PART THREE. Factory parts removal, and or enhancement. Stock IS a compromise. This is a fact. Most engine emissions systems ( IE: EGR, crankcase vent to filter/ NOT pcv, catalytic converter, etc) are designed to choke and or WEAR your engine down over time. All EGR does is introduce part of your exhaust back into your engine for reburning. Take a lot at a your exhaust pipe and run a finger in there. Or better yet ( if you have any free time unbolt your EGR and look inside. What do you see??? CARBON BUILD-up! :eek: This crap eventually builds up on your valves, rings, pistons etc. The crank case vent hose ( that goes to your airfilter ) is just as worst! It has a direct path way for oil vapers to be burned and potentially cause carbon build up. Take a look at your TBI once and awhile....see how dirty it is? Carbon is one of the main causes of power loss. This is probably why people want to use " seafoam". ( Or maybe they just like making smoke signals,and killing small animals, I dont know...) :shrug: :?: Regardless, removal of the two already mentioned items would allow a cleaner burn....... thusly, gaining more power. I made a block off plate from some spare aluminum from a bike project ( 25 gauge, I think). Some metal shears, some drilling, some hi-temp RTV, shazam. For the crankcase vent (drivers side valve cover), I used a stand alone valve cover filter. Unfortunately, due to the PCV valve, you can't totally eliminate ALL the potential carbon-build up :banghead: At least you can minimize it. The CAT is a no brainer. Either cut it off with a exhaust cutter tool, or pay some $$$ and get a hi flow after market cat. Try SLP (street legal performance), I remember ACCEL used to sell one awhile back. Google is your friend (sometimes) :text-google: For "enhancement", TURBO-CITY has an adjustable MAP sensor that piggybacks on your stock one
0 1000 adj map sensor.JPG
It has three fixed fuel settings: economy, stock, performance. I tried it out, works pretty good! Bought one for the fiero too........ ( helped the lean out issue of exhaust on it) The "performance" setting just adds additional fuel, but its legit. :thumbup: One last mod that SHOULD be done.......factory clutch fan removal ( plus shroud). By adding an E-FAN (dual fans are the bomb!), you'll net a cool and easy 15-17 horsepower! Additionally benefits: MORE engine bay room, more access to engine , looks better, LESS load on the water pump (!!!!), dead weight ETC. ETC. It did'nt cost me nothing but a little elbow grease due to the fact I had taken it (plus the MSD 6a), off of the 79 firebird before getting rid of it (rustbucket). :rockon: Save your useable parts whenever possible , mates. Also, I prefer using a simple, light-up toggle switch for fan activation. No thermo stat. or circuit-breaker. Just a 30 amp fuse.Less wiring. Its been working for 4 years now, no probs. Almost forgot, the 4.3 also uses a 160 degree stat ( bought that to use the stupid HYPERTECH chip). When the engine runs cooler, it will make consistent power. With it running cooler, I installed a "heated" O2 sensor from a 95' astro (It mainly increases the accuracy of the O2 sensor), but even then I knew this sucker needs a better chip. Although you're gonna be look n at $400 for a reburn!??! :crying: The van runs really hard in part and full throttle with the crap chip, but it feels like it should be cleaner on idle to low throttle. (lil soft due to computer no doubt) Next chapter..... PART FOUR: COMPUTER FUEL REMAPPING! (the other fuel enhancing stuff WAS just affordable bandaide solutions. GOOD, but not the BEST) :sci-fi-beamup:
 
#11 ·
PART FOUR: COMPUTER FUEL REMAPPING! Just found this gem recently......
ebl flash ecm.jpg
pretty damn cool! This is a EBL FLASH ECM upgrade.
ebl flash.jpg
Its supposed to do away with the "burning" of chips and allows a choice of EIGHT "bins" (fuel maps) that can be chosen from a laptop (which i dont have, but could get used )
ebl flash whats up display1.jpg
, OR you can read your past engine data on your PC!
ebl flash whats up display.jpg
You can do hi speed datalogging ( how your engine runs, what it is doing etc.)
ebl flash whats up display2 ve table.jpg
ebl flash whats up display3 trip table.jpg
ebl flash whats up display5 analysis.jpg
ebl flash whats up display6 performance.jpg
, has an optional port mod for mpfi tuning, (my 86 fiero), you can tune it with the engine running as well. :dance: Not much of a tech geek..... but, tuning your computer as well as engine is outstanding! You can eliminate the EGR, change the open loop/ close loop peramiters , as well as mph, rpm,and tps thresholds. They also have a "flash switcher"
ebl flash switcher.jpg
which can select one of the eight "bins" (fuel curves) WITHOUT the laptop or computer. :mrgreen: On the 411 tip, the PCM (programmable computer memory) on later vehicles (95-up, I think), you can send them your pcm for modification for just $150! The PCM mod was mentioned ALOT on various forums. Nothing but glowing praise......which led me to find the EBL FLASH for ECMS. It still costs roughly the same as a reburn chip...... but, if you want to modify more in the future....... you dont have to keep buying chips EACH time. :banana: Also, sorry about not figuring out how to post links. The EBL flash home page is alot more articulating and would of taken less wording. Regardless, I'm intrigued. THIS product is worth saving up for! Hope this info helps in some way form or fashion. G'day :greetings-wavingyellow:
 

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#12 ·
madmax said:
Thanx 4 the props, astro 355! Actually, I mentioned that this was PART ONE of a series. Exhaust upgrades are TOO obvious (next to air filter upgrades). I'd rather start off with fairly low-buck tricks that are often over looked on a late model (sort of late ). :lol: As far as exhaust size 2 1/4 is the best. I like big exhaust too, but v-6s NEED that back-pressure for torque! Thankfully, my vans emissions exempt here in Michigan , dont need the cat. :dance: But, duals can help open her up. Avoid "turbo" mufflers of dubious design , as well as "one in two out" types (unless its from SLP)............STRAIGHT THRU only! A thrush "cherry-bomb" (25-30 bones), works very well with y-split duals on the year. I've used this set up for four years now, and its JUST now wearing out!!! Soundwise, sat right next to johnny 5 oh in traffic.....never pulled over for sound. :D I think the second "y" in the exhaust , muffles the sound a bit more before exiting. Anywho, onto part 2. :sci-fi-beamup:
Well, the obvious upgrades are the ones that should be done first. The aftermarket for any vehicle or engine is overloaded with "low-buck tricks" that often don't work because the obvious upgrades are skipped.

Secondly, dual exhaust is the worst thing you can do if you are concerned about backpressure. Catback exhaust "one in two out" are a very effective way of increasing torque.

Listen, I'm not trying to rag on you. Its just that somethings you are saying I don't agree with and other things have been mentioned over and over. If you do a search in the archives, you can find it there.

:2:
 
#14 ·
No beef, astro 355...but "the obvious" upgrades ie: 4 bbl carb, edelbrock v6 intake,cam, v6 headers (long, or shortie style) ARE expensive, questionable that the part will even FIT in the space its meant for ( headers) , and the amount of down time to install it. The after market is flooded with OVER-PRICED parts as well. Selling products for YEARS that have little to no improvements in them based solely on their name. Yeah you could try flea bay for bargains, but then theres the modern axiom ..."you MIGHT get what you pay for." Parts could be warped, pitted, missing something etc. No offense....but I actually did a few searches on this forum, and most of the parts previously mentioned kept turning up for v8s. I dont hate on v8's, there cool. I just like to see big power out of a small package.Also, the only reason torque was even mentioned was because someone else stated they had an issue with a bigger exhaust causing problems. My 91' runs very well due to these simple modifications, which can be done by yourself and bought one at a time when money is available. Just offering a different perspective on how to make some linear, affordable power. Unfettered, I'd do a 4.3 with a custom DEMON carbs, tri power set up. (3 two bbls belong on a six anyway), with A hotter roller cam, ported vortech heads, 1.6 roller tip rockers, forged crank/pistons ,and JBA headers. No computer, w vac adv distributer.
 
#15 ·
Also, I didnt say to use TRUE duals, I meant to say use a good straight thru muffler after the factory "y-pipe",followed by a "y-pipe" terminating into dual outlets. Most custom exhaust shops around here do a very good job with this scenario. Very typical. My bad if you misunderstood my intent.
 
#16 ·
Ok, but the first obvious upgrade you would do to any vehicle would be to make sure its in tip top shape. You can't just start throwing performance mods and expecting to get the full advertised benefits out of them if your engine is running at only 75%. That's the reason I said something in the first place.

We can debate this forever, there just needs to be consistency. You can't suggest that an "obvious" mod would be a carb (old school) when you talk about modding a throttle body, reprogramming the ecm or adjusting the fuel pressure. Sure, we can get away with that in our older vans but suggesting that OBD II vehicles (which have the majority on this board) change over to carbs is not feasible or legal.
 
#17 ·
Astro 355, I agree with you that I may have jumped the gun by going straight to the TBI upgrades......mainly because I wanted to let people know they dont have to be limited by stock engine management. basic tune-ups ( distributer cap w rotor, sparkplug wires and spark plugs) ARE a fundamental , prerequisite for over all good, engine driveability. I probably SHOULD have started the thread with just that aforementioned sentence. Again, my apologies......When I get passionate about a problem, I gets tunnel vision. Actually, I was gonna do a short PART FIVE on ignition.....most folks are already aware of whats available. But, what to AVOID should be beneficial to all.
 
#18 ·
Also, I wasnt trying to tell the obd II guys to swap out their manifolds for carbs OR tbi's...................just offering info I found that may help someone who feels limited performance wise, like I did when I first bought my astro. ( it was SOOOO slow!) Besides, dont obd II 4.3's have more aftermarket programming options as well as the highest horsepower rating anyway, right? (200hp I think.)
 
#19 ·
Now this is what I call good healthy debate. I like reading both of your views. Nobody is all-knowing when it comes to this topic, just express your suggestions and let the people decide what they want to do. Great information either way you choose to go about it. :2:
 
#23 ·
Part FOUR 2nd chapter: PCM UPGRADE for obdII astros. Almost forgot that WAIT4MEPERFORMANCE.com has the PCM obdII tune, EBL FLASH does obd1. :oops: With WAIT4meperf. , you have a choice of keeping OR sending in your original PCM ............... ($160 you keep your original, get additional PCM) ($75. you send PCM, they send it back) WAIT4ME will retune it based on what vehicle you have, mods if any, and what grade of fuel you want to run. if I recall properly, you get THREE "fuel grade tunes": reg (baseline), mid grade (sport), and premium ( max power). :layrubber: From all the forums I skimmed, about 90% rave about the work done for them. The other 10%, mostly had a small glich of some sort that was correctable over the phone or the pcm was reprogrammed. The most common problem was a SES(?) light / code. I'm not familiar with obdII, but apparently this code requires a crank relearn session . ( it's supposed to be cleared by a snap on scanner) Also, I did a double check on some forums.........it seems the crank relearn code (IF you get it) , has a higher probability of happening on the 99-00 (or newer) PCMS. Regardless, $160. is flipp'n awesome! Makes me wish I had obdII. :crying: With the re- tune you get: 30-24 REARWHEEL horsepower (24 rwh with 87 oct) , at least 20 horsepower min, firmer shifts, reduced trans temps, and supposedly, 2-2.5 mpg. Hope I'm not sounding like some salesman but, customer input keeps checking VERY consistently. Damn, that rocks hard for that kind of scratch. :rockon: One last thing, there is also a DUAL OCTANE tune available as well. I guesstimate thats a sort of coverall for variable grades of gas across the country. There is hope for the older vans (obdI)............I only saw two posts but Jesse (Wait4meperf.) can go back past '89 as well. :mrgreen: Its not an EBL flash, but you get a lifetime warrenty for future tunes. You just pay the shipping only. More choices for the masses.......
 
#24 ·
PART FIVE: IGNITION UPGRADES Sorry 4 the wait..... but, I procrastinated for a reason. EVERY car I first bought, after a tune-up, DIDNT improve performance much. My car would start, run alittle better, and keep my plugs clean and thats it. :shrug: Dont get me wrong.........a good basic tune-up (dizzy cap/ rotor/ wires/ and sparkplugs) DOES prevent problems like slow starts, sluggish performance, and low MPG. However, SOME stock ignition pieces are mediocre at best. Dont let me discourage you for being honest! Theres alittle room for improve ment without losing dependability. :dance: I tried ACCEL 300+, JACOBS power coil, and MSD 6a ignition boxes. They worked well and allowed bigger sparkplug gaps for POWERTUNING. Although not earth shaking, throttle response was better and I NEVER had any fouled plugs or breakdowns. You're all wondering WHY are you buying all this stuff? Mainly, I didnt have a computer to research crap back in the day like I do now . But, I read ALOT of hotrod mags and wanted to see if the part was good or not. Thusly, enuff :blah: drivers.......... START YOUR ENGINES!!!!! :auto-car: GM stock distributers, and ignition modules are good......but, IF you have the money, the MSD dist. is a GREAT upgrade..........
msd hipo dist..jpg
It has larger roller bearings, bigger, more direct oil ports , and precise firing accuracy ( notice the copper terminals for BETTER conductivity). Drool. The MSD coil...
msd coil.jpg
puts out 48,000 volts. Stock coils usually avg. 38,000. The MSD 6a...
msd ignition box.jpg
is a MULTISPARK c.d. ignition. (110 millijoles????) (what they dont tell you is that it goes to single spark above 3,000 rpm) still.... very dependable IF you mount it in a COOLER part of the engine compartment . (I mounted mine above the a/c box) I mentioned MSD first because the quality is on par, they still make it in the USA, (as far as I know), and the price isnt too bad, Plus, its easy to install with the GM ext. coil wire kit. MSD wires are top shelf....
msd spark plug wires.jpg
8.5 SUPER CONDUCTORS offer 40-50 ohms resistance. Low resistance means you dont lose alot of spark energy getting to the plugs. Only prob with it is the price. Dont worry, Ill offer the BEST, AFFORDABLE options for ya very soon.... CRANE HI-6....
crane ignition.jpg
also a MULTISPARK c,d,igniton. (1200 millijoules????) This coil is POWERFULL and has a very efficent rise time/ coil saturation. Has self diagnostic. Quality supposed to be good. Didnt try this one only because it looked like a mofo to install, and didnt really see anyone running it in the car mags. Price is about the same. On the forums, the general consesis is the MSD and CRANE both felt about the same. :shrug: ACCEL 300+ IGNITON......
accel 300+ system.jpg
MULTISPARK, digital (cdi).....smaller size, 1/3 the energy to fire it. Has built-in rev limiter ,easy to dial , had this on the fiero. Was dependable. had this coil with it.......
accel coil.jpg
48,000 volts. Bought it when it first came out. Still keep it for a spare. MALLORY hyfire vI........
mallory ignition.jpg
MULTISPARK CDI, rev limiter, 50,000 volt coil. Just wasnt interested, did'nt look that easy to install plus, I didnt see anyone use it as well. JACOBS OMNI COIL......
0 1000 jacobs omni coil.jpg
their complete system was $400.(????) back then , seemed pretty high.....but they used to claim BIG horsepower/ torque numbers so I bought the coil/ trigger only. One option that made me buy it was.... if you had any problem (red flag) ......you can unplug it easily and run your stock system. (Which you WILL eventually do) Yeah, it was a big smoke n pile! Besides the TEDIOUS installation..... and the samsonite carry-on luggage of a coil, it didnt FEEL any different than stock. To be fair, maybe it was due to lack of additional fuel. ( I didnt know about TURBO CITY yet) ......or the fact your supposed to use copper plugs (gapped to .60!!!) instead of platinums. Maybe,.............it died on me . Thats not cool. I rebuke you, evil box thing. :handgestures-thumbdown: The HYPERTECH COIL......
hypertech coil w cap.jpg
45,000- 55,000 volts w cap/ rotor set works great. ( I use this with the msd) In conclusion, the MSD 6a and the ACCEL 300+ are nice ignitions . But, Ever since MR. GASKET bought ACCEL .........quality is a bad word for them. I'd avoid ALL of accels current products. Do a search on the net, alot of people are dissatisfied including myself......( bought their dist. ign. module, didnt last long)I refuse to buy ANY of their stuff anymore. MSD 6a is the most practical. If your not comfortable with installing this ignition box........you can just buy the coil and /or sparkplug wires. The coil was cheaper than the wires amazingly. The hypertech coil is also a good choice, it can work with a stock ignition. But, I recommend you install new ignition parts first ( cap / rotor/ wires). As another less exspensive choice in sparkplug wire : TAYLOR THUNDERVOLT 8.2's........
taylor spark plug wires.jpg
50 ohms resistance (sound familar?) they offer the same copper/ alloy spiral winding with reliable EMI resistance as msd for $20. less. (Looks like a winner to me.) I've looked at alot of sparkplug wire lately for my next tune-up. Again, to be fair... accel's 300+ wire came in "3rd" with 300-400 ohms resistance. (if i'm mistaken please let me know, but i'm pretty sure). Nology (sort of last) and Magnecore came in last! (about 6,000 resistance)!!! If you read their site ......SOME of what they say is true but it still seems like a double-talking , reverse marketing ploy. Whatever................................................... I'm getting tired of researching and typing .........so I'll have to do a PART FIVE Ignition Upgrades chapter 1 later......... Theres some simple ,stock distributer tricks that just may prevent potential no starts and problems plus a brief, brief, brief (did I say "brief") sparkplug over- view, plus a few wham , bam, thank you, mamm mods. Thankyou, for your time reading this. Peace out
 
#25 ·
Welcome, and g'day to ya! In the last installment, I kind of ran out of "wind" to complete the write up. Sorry, 'bout that. Some of these bits and pieces of info came from ALOT of internet digging, double checking, and forum diving............so those who are following along, please bear with me. :techie-typing: But first some quick insight on the AC DELCO name. "AC" stands for Albert Champion. Who used to make sparkplugs for his friends in the early 1900's. Eventually, he started his own company, Champion ignition co. (1905) Champion had a falling out with some investors but, because of their contract, they TOOK his name with them!??! (1908) Champion joins BUICK motor company, his office is on the TOP floor no less. Because of legal issues, BUICK used just his initals for his ignition products. :D DELCO stands for: " Dayton Engineering Labs Co. " Just some Interesting stuff I happened upon, pure serendipity. :D Anywho, on to PART FIVE/ CHAPTER TWO: SPARKPLUGS ................................................................................quick overview Conventional plugs (copper cores)
ac delco copper core.jpg
ngk copper spark plug.jpg
are BEST for Hi energy ignitions (multispark ignitions) because they conduct voltage better and dissipate heat MUCH faster than plats or irridium. Plus they're CHEAP! Only drawback........ they dont last as long (15-20,000miles). Platinum plugs (copper core/ plat. tip, plat core/ plat tip)
ac delco_rapidfire.jpg
BEST for a stock ignition system with an AVG. coil. You can run a HIPO coil with it...... but, the high energy of the system will probably wear out the platinum ALITTLE quicker than usual. Main attribute, LAST LONGER than conventional /copper (30-50,000miles). Irridiums ( copper core usually, irridium tip)
ac delco iridium.jpg
IridiumIX spark plug.jpg
are BEST for HI energy ignitions, and stock systems who want MAX LONGIVITY out of their plugs. Longivity is the MAIN reason for buying irridiums (100,000miles). As far as performance is concerned.........average. I have tried them, and they're alright. The "perf". advantage of the uber, ultra fine irridium "tip" (main electrode) is probably to insure the dang thing fires at all!!!!!!!! Irridium is some rare metal that fell to earth as a meteorite thats incrediably hard, and difficult to melt. In the olden days, they put it on the tips of fountain pens, in sunglasses (oakly) ,and satelite - phones. In my opinion..... if it had a "normal" electrode tip.....it probably would'nt fire AND be ridiculously MORE expensive than it already is. Plus, I read the tip will sometimes LOOSEN and fall out!!!!?? :shock: Quicky rundown: If you dont drive too far, or run HOTTER igniton( multispark).......copper/ conventional. Longer commute, or dont like changing plugs that much, platinum. Irridium if COST isnt an issue, and/or you're uber lazy and REALLY hate doing plugs :mrgreen: . These next pix are the bane of the sparkplug world, please avoid them. (Most folks are already hip to these EL CRAPPOS, just a friendly reminder)
bosch+4.jpg
With MSD they still worked o.k., but I keep seeing threads on these plugs screwing up with avg. ignitons. The BOSCH +2 should be avoided as well. Just a gimmick. Remember this pittiful sucker?
splitfire stupidfire.jpg
Tried 'em ONCE when they first came out, not impressed. :snooty: It seems the federal trade commision was'nt either. Now they sell an ordinary pos plug and STILL call it splitfire! :lol: Champions and Autolites blow chunks. Both are " foul-out kings". Champions were the first plugs I ever installed when I started working on cars. The engine was a bone stock 2bbl 326 pontiac v8, and it was always fouling out thanks to these crappy plugs. Both of these lame o's are consistently lambasted on other forums , maybe some people got lucky and didnt have problems. Regardless, moving on..............................................................................SPARKPLUG GAPS: a larger sparkplug gap will allow MORE air/fuel mixture INTO the main electrode, thusly providing a more COMPLETE burn. You could already have a multispark but with a stock gap (.35) , you're WASTING spark energy which could give you more power AND mpg! The RAPIDFIRES (#14), are supposedly set to a .60 gap! But, on a stock ignition this is a pretty big strecth! FACTOID!!!!! a larger gap setting (.50-.60) will STRAIN a normal ignition system over time. This is where HIPO ignition parts can really shine! A MSD, hotter coil, dizzy cap with copper terminals, LOW resistance sprkplg wires , and HI CONDUCTIVE sprkplgs........ CAN jump a larger gap very easily. SPARKPLUG SIDEGAPPING: An old racer trick as well that involves CUTTING the secondary electrode to expose the main electrode even more.
side gap plugs1.gif
This guy cut alittle TOO much off for my tastes. I cut mine to the CENTER of the center electrode. Not the very edge of it. Since I use coppers, I gapped a little lower (.30) to compensate for faster wear and to compliment the side gapping. Both gaps in tandom should roughly equal a .50-.55 gap. Anyways, he got 7 rearwheel horsepower on the dyno
side gapped SparkPlugDyno.jpg
Most people may scoff..............."five horse?", "7-10 horse" "thats all????" Do the math, add LITTLE NUMBERS up enough and you'll eventually get BIGGER NUMBERS! Thats why no stone should be unturned, even if its a pebble. :hand: To be fair........bigger gaps, side gapping, and multispark were remedys for hi compression engines that had alot of spark kernal blowout or starting issues. Its all good............mild engines can still benefit from these ignition modifications : better starting, more power, always clean plugs, and MPG. Sure, stock ignitions will do alright... but if you WANT more throttle response as well as alittle more power (thru additional tuning), then a HI-PO ignition means you're serious and dedicated enough to achieve your desire by buying the needed parts. Remember, its the sum of ALL the parts that leads to a horsepower nirvana. :layrubber:
 
#26 ·
Almost forgot, this tip is a simple preventative for NO STARTS, and SLUGGISH driveability. If you look UNDER your stock dizzy cap, and the dizzy rotor, you'll see the magnetic pick-up assembly. (sort of like a circle with a star in it) Sometimes rust (?) forms here that slowly degrades the pulse signal the distributer needs to recognize the engine is turning (starting), or running. I had a dist. go bad just like this. It was a pita and cost some serious bread. Just because the symptoms confused me. I thought it was a fuel pump.......the injectors werent firing during cranking. The same problem later happened to my 86 fiero gt that had been sitting for a long time as well. Instead of paying stupid MIDAS again :screaming: I guesstimated the cap just needed changing , and the mag- pick up ( star thingy), just needed cleaning. The cap/rotor was a nice copper terminal from autozone ($14.), the star thingy I cleaned with some sandpaper and awirebrush.....carefully blowing any visible residue from the s-paper. Sprayed a little silicon on the sucker, put diaelectric lube on the shaft the rotor sits on. (Theres a ground in the dist. rotor cap) Buttoned it up, cranked it...............VROOOOOMM!!!!!!! Shes alive! The point I'm making is ..........check your ignition cap/rotor more than recommended intervals (not sure what it is but, every 1,500-3,000miles is what I do) Another tip, if you DONT have the money to replace the cap/rotor right now..............you can just clean IT!!!!!!!! A rag, some sandpaper, and a scewdriver can help remove the carbon tracking . Blow and wipe the cap/rotor clean......... impromptu mini tune! :D It works. It'll help till you get the money to replace the parts properly. Hope this helps.
 
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