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Anything to worry about ? ( photos )

4K views 29 replies 12 participants last post by  WoodButcher 
#1 ·
So this is a photo taken from the ground up. The left side of the frame is the fan casing... It looks like oil is being sprayed on to the hose from either the front crank shaft seal or engine oil cooler.. Is this something I need to take apart and fix or is this normal? GMC Safari 86K Thanks!!


 
#2 ·
If it is the crank seal that is no biggie. Bigger pain to fix than it is worth.
Check to make sure the oil cooler lines are secure at the radiator. That is the only concern. Just keep oil in it and you will be fine.
Most engines leak something somewhere. No oil spots under the van when you park it then it isn't leaking much at all.
 
#5 ·
My bet is the oil cooler lines, but that usually sprays all over the bottom of the vehicle. Clean it up and then have another look.

I simply removed the oil cooler lines and pulled the oil filter/cooler mount off, then unscrewed and replaced the oil filter mounting screw into the hole in the block. Then screwed a new oil filter in. I used synthetic oil to make up for the lack of an oil cooler.

I also had coolant leaking out of the radiator, so I replaced it with a cheaper rad that didn't have provisions for the oil cooler lines.

5000 kms later and no overheating issues, no oil all over the driveway, and it seems to hold oil pressure better than before.

I also cut a hole in the floor to change the abnormally loud fuel pump, so take my advice with a grain of salt :banana:
 
#6 ·
why do these vans even have an oil cooler? seriously why? i have never had a vehicle with an oil cooler before this van. i dont see why they are necessary in my climate, or any really. i just had to replace both my lines at it was -37F that day; no need to cool that oil.
 
#7 ·
Beats me.... Yeah up close and personal it looks like its spraying oil under pressure.... as opposed to power steering fluid dripping.... On the right hand side of the photo you can see oil sprayed on the sway bar and it goes beyond that... but only in one direction. I have not noticed any oil on the garage floor. I will clean it up and tighten those hoses.. see what happens. Thanks
 
#8 ·
No, it's not normal. Unless it's a '92 Lumina like the one I have. If there's liquids in it, it leaks out. If there's liquid on the outside, it leaks in.

I think it's a slow leak that's getting blown all over the place by the fan and road draft. It's either leaking at the radiator connection (o-rings) or the metal-to-rubber hose crimps.

You can try to re-seal the connections. The connector and the line use o-rings. You'll need to first remove the cooler line to get to its o-ring, and then remove the connector to get to its o-ring.

Use a pick or awl and catch the end of the retaining clip. Rotate the clip around the fitting and it should release one end. Pull the clip off the fitting and pull out the cooler line.



Remove the connector from the radiator. Replace the connecter o-ring and re-install it into the radiator. Torque the connector to specs (don't recall what it is off the top of my head).

Install a new clip onto the fitting by rotating it around the fitting until it snaps into place.

Install a new o-ring on the line and push it back into the fitting until it snaps into place.

IMO, I think it would be best to just replace the entire hose assembly.
 
#9 ·
Coaster said:
why do these vans even have an oil cooler? seriously why?
I think the reason they have oil coolers is because they were touted as a towing vehicle with a engine that was way underpowed for what they were advertising it to do. Running a engine full tilt boogie towing for hours on end is going to get them hot.
Oil is the only thing cooling parts of the engine. Like the valvetrain particularly exhaust valves. Red hot glowing valves tend to coke the oil up. Burnt valves are soon to follow. Breaks the oil down :blah: :blah: :blah:
So it is a good thing if you need it.
They are real easy to disable and remove if you don't want it.
 
#10 ·
As long as you use a good synthetic motor oil, I don't believe an oil cooler is needed, unless you are towing 5000 lbs uphill all day in the desert. An oil cooler line is just another thing to worry about. Would you prefer to lose all your oil with a blown oil cooler line? or spend a bit more on synthetic oil?

Oil Cooler Delete for me :)
 
#12 ·
ouch, sorry. Did it blow the motor? That's why I don't like things to be over-engineered. Regular dyno oil was probably what these vans were intended to run on, so I can see why the towing package would include an oil cooler. It's a lot harder to breakdown synthetic oil, even under extreme driving conditions.

I'll change mine every 6000 kms or so, just to be safe. Leaky lines were a blessing for me, because that's how I got the van for basically nothing. It was leaking like crazy ;)
 
#15 ·
Safari_Rich said:
Is synthetic oil something I should be thinking about using ?
It is better oil. And if you shop around you can get it cheap. I get it for under 10 bucks a gallon.
It doesn't break down in heat as fast. It breaks up and prevents deposits. Lubricates better. Proof for the puddin there is that rings on a new engine will not break in because to little friction. So it is recommended not to use it till the engine is broke in.
I am a believer as you can tell. I take engines apart that run it and they are clean as new inside.
Bob gets over 300 thousand on his engines with dyno oil so obviously the important thing is just keep it full and changed.
 
#17 ·
Did someone call my name ???

Valvoline 10-40 from cradle to grave...

Well, it works for me...I'd use caster oil

if the price was right. US Armed forces

use dyno oil in yellow gear and motor pool,

synthetic in all aircraft.

Uncle Bob
 
#19 ·
Jesticle said:
I simply removed the oil cooler lines and pulled the oil filter/cooler mount off, then unscrewed and replaced the oil filter mounting screw into the hole in the block. Then screwed a new oil filter in. I used synthetic oil to make up for the lack of an oil cooler.
I also removed leaking oil cooler lines / adapter from a 1996 Chevy S10 4.3 my son owned.

I figured my 1987 Astro didn't have it & one too many people had fubared engines from the lines blowing.

He continued to use dino oil after removal without isue, but he didn't do any heavy duty towing either.

The truck is long gone but I actually still have the lines / adapter hanging in my barn.
 
#20 ·
I have replaced my cooler lines once already. Oil is now again splashing all over the underside of the van on the suspension and cross member, etc.

I don't really like to take the cooler out of the circuit if I can help it.

Has anyone found a better set (brand) of aftermarket or ? cooler lines that don't eventually start to leak at the crimp to the hose(s)?
i.e. I because aluminum doesn't have the same properties as steel, the aluminum doesn't maintain a good crimp on the hose(s). A set of steel lines would, I am sure, be a better solution. i.e. if they are of a crimp-on style
Thks,
Dwight
2000 Astro
 
#21 ·
You can get OEM from rockauto. I just went with the Dorman for a little over half price.

If you have a local hydraulic shop (around me, it's Colliflower), they can custom-make any hydraulic line you want with whatever end fittings you need.
 
#23 ·
97cargocrawler said:
Cleaning that crap off with a scrub brush and Dawn detergent will help you pinpoint the leak. It looks a lot like mine before I cleaned and fixed the cracked and leaking oil cooler hoses. You maybe even have a power steering hose leaking.
This^^. I've gone through THREE(original and two aftermarket) sets of oil cooler lines, this latest one seems to be holding. The last one will be going back(Dorman). The spray pattern seems to indicate that the oil is coming from the timing cover and or crank seal but it's not. After replacing everything (covers, seals,hoses) twice I was able to see the latest set leaked right at the crimp on one of the hoses. The oil then gets splashed all over and it it hard to determine where it's coming from.

This last time I caught it before it had a chance to build up with dirt and grime and it was obvious where it was coming from. Can't tell you how nice it is to have a dry motor/suspension/subframe now. Plus that timing cover/oil pan job is NO fun. :banghead:
 
#24 ·
Not quite clear as to what you are saying about the Dorman set. Are you saying it also failed and that you are somehow sending it back under warranty? I just ordered a set of Dorman based upon what someone else had said about them being good quality. If you are sending the Dorman back, with what are you replacing it? i.e. brand/source?
Also just curious if the Dorman or other set(s) came new 'clips' which hold the ends to the fittings on the radiator?
 
#26 ·
I just want to try a different brand and plan to repair the one which I take out and have it as a back up set. I screwed up the first/original set when I was trying to remove the crimps. It wouldn't pay to take to them to a shop to weld them up. i.e I can weld steel but don't have equipment to do aluminum.

About the hose clamps, can one actually buy the type which doesn't use the screw on the 'slotted' portion which often lets rubber squeeze out thru the small slots that the screw bites into? If so, what exactly are they called and where can they be purchased?
Thks.
 
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