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2000 Astro dead in the water

5K views 76 replies 14 participants last post by  Mmusicman 
#1 ·
For the last week I've been having to give it a little gas to start and then Tuesday night the van stalled out and wouldn't restart.

Originally I got a misfire in cylinder 1 code. I figured I would first start with the plugs and wires. I have not replaced them in the year I've owned it. The plugs were in poor condition, but the wires were good.

After jumping the battery it started and I let it run for twenty minutes and it ran beautifully. I then backed out of the driveway and got a few hundred yards and it stalled out again and wouldn't start.

Now the code reader won't power on (I checked it on another vehicle), and when I could get it started it runs very rough and dies when in gear.

Fuel pump and filter: 3 months old
Distributor and rotor: 6 months old and in good condition
Fuses: visually checked

The only other odd things that happened was the accessory plugs all went out Sunday morning and when I started it the first time before it stalled, I got a blast of hot air out of the AC for a second and then it was normal.
 
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#3 ·
When my code reader and accessory plugs wouldn't work, my 99 Astro had quit while driving and wouldn't re-start. This happened several times over a period of months until the last time it wouldn't re-start at all. I had to have it towed to an auto electric shop for troubleshooting. They found a connector on the inside of the firewall connector block that had been heating up and expanding that would lose connection. That connector provided power to the computer, and was the same circuit that fed power to the gauges, OBDII circuit and several others.

Did any of your gauges also go whacky or stop working?

That firewall connector is very fragile, but you can try wiggling (very gently) the firewall connector block and see if the van re-starts. It's on the firewall straight back from the battery. If it does that may tell you that the short is in that block somewhere, or the wiring going to it on one side or the other. There are so many connecitons in there that my regualr mechanic was never able to find that problem even though he had all of the GM wiring books. I ended up using the auto electric shop who had a much more methodical way of tracing it out and testing. It cost me about 3 or 4 hours labor and have nad no more issues with it since.

Your other code may be a different issue altogether, or may go away if you have an electrical issue involving the circuit that handles that particular code.
 
#5 ·
I was thinking it was something in a wiring harness or connection somewhere because both times it cut it was on a rough road.

I pulled it and looked at all the fuses, but I didn't test them yet. The van is an hour away and I didn't have my multi meter with me.

I just find it strange that it could run so much better after I put the new plugs in and then cut out, but it could really be unrelated.
 
#7 ·
I need some help with this. After two years of sitting, I need to get this thing running. So far this is what has been done since the time it first broke down plus a little recap:

Van was having problems starting a few days prior and then stalled out while driving and wouldn't restart.
Original code was a misfire in cylinder 1.
Accessories and code reader plug stopped working(found out it was a fuse).
Replaced plugs and wires. Distributor cap was only a month or two old, so it stayed.
Van started and ran well. Left it running for around twenty minutes and then tried to drive off.
Drove about 100 yards and it died again and wouldn't restart.
Towed it home and parked it in the driveway for the last two years.

Now I need it again.

Replaced the battery.
Removed and checked all the fuses in both boxes. Found the accessory fuse burnt out and replaced.
Drained the fuel tank and as much of the fuel lines as possible.
Filled the tank with 10 gallons of new gas to dilute anything left in there.
Tried to start and got the code for faulty MAP sensor.
Replaced the MAP sensor today and rechecked the codes. All good.
Tried starting again, but no luck. Got it started with starting fluid, but could only keep it running with a slow, constant spray.
Engine finally started running on its own. Put the MAF sensor and housing back on and it ran great.
Let it run for about 15 minutes and then drove it down the driveway with no problems.
Decided to press my luck with a trip to the end of the street. 100 yards, van stalled. Wouldn't restart. Misfire cyl. 4 code.
Pushed it back to the driveway. Tried starting it again and it cranked up. Backed into the driveway and it stalled again.
I cleared the codes to recheck and no problem codes are showing.

I'm at a loss here. I figured it was slow to start because of some old gas in the line, but I don't know why it won't stay running.
 
#8 ·
mynicechicken said:
... Towed it home and parked it in the driveway for the last two years.
I really wish I could help, but not real familiar w/ Gen II fuel systems and diagnostics.
Or many others for that matter...

But - It's been 2 years since you ran the van regularly and since you posted about it.
Let me see if I can round up some of those folks - gimme' a minute...

Meanwhile - you gots some splainin' to do about what other stuff you've done to it. Read up also.
!And Good Luck, amigo!

Mike
 
#10 ·
Definitely a fuel issue. I know your original post says fuel pump and filter were 3 months old, but that doesn't mean it's good. Do you know what brand pump was installed?

Time to get a fuel pressure tester and see for yourself what your KOEO (Key On, Engine Off) pressure is at prime, as soon as the prime cycle stops (3 secs) and 10 mins after prime.

Repeat the test 3-5 times to make sure it's the same - or close - every time. The pump on my Bravada died only when hot, so the first 3 tests, it was within spec but the 4th and 5th test were 20 psi.
 
#11 ·
Looks like I'm off to Harbor Freight for another diagnostic tool! Hopefully this will she's some light on what's going on. As far as it running exclusively on starting fluid, I felt like it was just cleaning the old had it off the lines. Once it caught, it ran by itself like a brand new engine. After thinking about it overnight, it feels like it died under demand, so it would make sense that the fuel pressure is an issue. I guess just because gas was coming out when I was draining it out, doesn't mean enough was coming through.
 
#13 ·
x2, check fuel pressure

albrow100 said:
In some years the fuel pump won't get power without oil pressure
I have never seen an Astro/Safari van like that.
 
#14 ·
albrow100 said:
If you have no or low fuel pressure Check to see if your fuel pump is tied into your oil pressure switch
This can cause the pump to not get power and would be a easy fix

In some years the fuel pump won't get power without oil pressure
It sorta/kinda had a secondary run through the oil pressure switch prior to 1999. He has a 2000 so it's not even close to an issue.
 
#16 ·
I'm not sure if this helps or not, but I got a pressure tester yesterday. I wasn't sure where to hook it up at because I was without my book. I removed the fuel filter and connected it directly to the end of the line coming from the fuel pump. I preformed several tests with similar results. With KOEO the pressure would spike to an average of 65 psi and then rapidly fall off. I tried starting it a few times to see what the pump was doing and I got the same reults. It would spike to around 65-70 psi will the engine was cranking and then rapidly fall back down.

Does this mean anything to anybody? Should I expect different results when it's connected to the Schrader valve?
 
#17 ·
Yes, because you're basically dead heading the pump IF you tester set up is blocking any fuel from getting to the engine. If the tester just replaces the filter connection, and is allowing fuel to get to the engine, at those pressures it should start.

Ninja Edit: If however your tester set up is blocking fuel from getting to the engine, and you're dead heading the pump, you should be seeing fuel pressures in the 120 psi range, or maybe even higher. At 65 to 70 psi dead headed, then I'd say your pump is on it's way out.
 
#20 ·
Schrader valve test results. Just finished checking. Each time it's in koeo, the pressure jumps to 60 psi and then just as quickly drops down to zero. When I turn the key off, it does the same.

With starting fluid I managed to get it running for a few seconds. When it was cranking, it would go up to 60 psi and remain there until the engine stopped. Then it would instantly drop to zero.

Does this sound more like pressure regulator, fuel pump, or both?
 
#23 ·
It maintains pressure while it's running. To be fair, it's not running long. I just watched this video: that showed a similar problem and I'm wondering if it's not a stuck injector or two. Originally I had a code for a misfire in cylinder 1 and then recently I had a misfire for 4.
 
#24 ·
if the pressure dropped to zero very quickly when you were only connected to the fuel pump. (not with a "T") at the fuel filter. (dead heading the pump) then you have a bad pump and or check valve in the pump. Watch your video again. You isolated the system to just the pump and filter eliminating all other parts of the fuel system and you are still not holding pressure.

What kind of fuel pump did you put in, and was there a warranty. The Delco Professional comes with a lifetime warr (or at least mine did) The Bosch and Denso I believe also come with a lifetime warr. The generic LAPS I've seen some with lifetime warr as well.

DC
 
#26 ·
My first fuel pump replacement (was a delco but purchased at a LAPS) lasted about 2 months. (I suspect it might have been a refurb in a "new" box) but they stood behind it. Unfortunately I had to have my van towed from San Leandro to San Francisco, then it took me almost 2 days to empty/siphon the tank, drop it, and replace it. I had to do this so that I could take the bad one back to the LAPS so they could replace it.

The second unit lasted 60K (4 years) and was still running strong when I gave up the van to the JY (rust problems)

My new to me 99 Safari pump gave up when I was on a trip to Salt Lake City and it failed over a weekend (sunday actually) and if you have ever been to UT, everything is closed on Sunday. Since I was so far from home, I had to have a shop take care of it there but I did get a new Delco with life time warr. Been running good since.
 
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