Chevy Astro and GMC Safari Forum banner

abs light came on

8K views 24 replies 8 participants last post by  manny951 
#1 ·
ok well my dads awd 1998 astro abs light came on witch is know anti lock so it comes on at low braking idk but i almost got in a accident 2x because i would press the break it would break then it wouldn't then out of nowhere just lock all the tires so i got down on the fuse box remove the abs fuse thank god! they work but the anti lock light is on and airbag could never get the airbag off but is there anyways i can check for abs codes manualy like i did on my dads 92 jimmy i dont know what could be the cause of this and lately my dads van has just been breakin down piece by piece and its really annoyin me but i love chevrolet no matter what it has it would never leave me stranded at all! :chevy:
 
#2 ·
As far as I know, you need a scanner to get the ABS codes. Some of us just run the vans with no ABS, ( I prefer mine that way, and no unexpected ABS drama! ). My '01 never acted up, just had the light on; and the light never came on on my '99, but the ABS would activate and it would keep rolling like it was on rails. They both have the fuse pulled.
 
#4 ·
Slave to GM said:
Instead of pulling just pulling the fuse & become "Slaves to GM" why doesn't everyone report these constant safety issues to the NHTSA and force GM to make recalls...DUH ? I did... Lets all do it together & beat the problem, not disabling something you paid for...DUH !
It's an ABS at large issue. My wifes Explorer had the same problem. It would activate the abs regardless of conditions until I replaced a wheel speed sensor. That worked great and no ABS light, then it came on, but the brakes work fine with the exception of a random problem probably in the valving/solenoids in the ABS module itself ( guessing ).
I checked both front wheel speed sensors on my van and they both check out. I am going to check the rear sensor this weekend. If the sensors are good, then it's the module. I've heard the module in our vans is no longer available, and to be honest, I don't feel like getting under there and doing the R&R on it. ABS is nice to have when it works, but it's easily disabled so there isn't a dire need to get it fixed, which is why there isn't a big recall on it, not to mention most of our vans are 15 years old or better...doubt we are going to see a recall on it anytime soon.
 
#5 ·
Slave to GM said:
Instead of pulling just pulling the fuse & become "Slaves to GM" why doesn't everyone report these constant safety issues to the NHTSA and force GM to make recalls...DUH ? I did... Lets all do it together & beat the problem, not disabling something you paid for...DUH !
If I had a choice i wouldn't pay for it!
As I have said many times, I drive the truck, not the computer, not the government, ME.
 
#6 ·
WoodButcher said:
Slave to GM said:
Instead of pulling just pulling the fuse & become "Slaves to GM" why doesn't everyone report these constant safety issues to the NHTSA and force GM to make recalls...DUH ? I did... Lets all do it together & beat the problem, not disabling something you paid for...DUH !
If I had a choice i wouldn't pay for it!
As I have said many times, I drive the truck, not the computer, not the government, ME.
Exactly. Besides, I bought mine all used, someone ELSE payed for that crap! :lol:
 
#7 ·
rev_les said:
WoodButcher said:
Slave to GM said:
Instead of pulling just pulling the fuse & become "Slaves to GM" why doesn't everyone report these constant safety issues to the NHTSA and force GM to make recalls...DUH ? I did... Lets all do it together & beat the problem, not disabling something you paid for...DUH !
If I had a choice i wouldn't pay for it!
As I have said many times, I drive the truck, not the computer, not the government, ME.
Exactly. Besides, I bought mine all used, someone ELSE payed for that crap! :lol:
Can I join in on this rant session.I dont even like anti-lock brakes.If I was going to cry about something it would be the OBD1 computer settings and lack of ajustment.Or no V-8 option offered.And what were they thinking with those factory cupholders that barely hold a coke can.Brakes work great with that fuse out and the light bulb gone.I got bigger issues to worry about.Everybody in the back got a decent cup holder. :poke:
 
#8 ·
I'll just throw in my 2cents , my van has the fuse pulled , and brakes are fine, I think there is a loose connection in the abs connection , but not in a big hurry to get it fixed ,,but I will say that in my car the abs works great , during the winter it was a lifesaver on the ice as I started into a skid I felt the abs kick in and all I had to do was hold steady on the brake pedal and it worked like a charm to keep me from sliding all over , it was much better than trying to pump the brake pedal myself a more controlled stopping force on ice ; :2: :mrgreen:
 
#9 ·
Phantom said:
I'll just throw in my 2cents , my van has the fuse pulled , and brakes are fine, I think there is a loose connection in the abs connection , but not in a big hurry to get it fixed ,,but I will say that in my car the abs works great , during the winter it was a lifesaver on the ice as I started into a skid I felt the abs kick in and all I had to do was hold steady on the brake pedal and it worked like a charm to keep me from sliding all over , it was much better than trying to pump the brake pedal myself a more controlled stopping force on ice ; :2: :mrgreen:
Yes they are nice if they work right.We talkin about the van here not a cars that work.No brakes at all with 1 wheel on ice compared to all wheels on ice and they work right.Street next to mine always has ice near the curb in winter.I got 2 choices take out the fuse and have brakes.Or listen to brrrrrrrrr and smile pretty as on comming traffic is trying not to T-Bone me as I roll into the intersection with no brakes what-so-ever.No Mystery anymore happens everytime every year.Pull the fuse and bulb free.Or spend ungodly amounts of money and time putting in a different system that works and tuning it for the van.I good with using the brakes just got to know how to drive.Kinda like the factory 11 sec computer cars on that count.What in the van a different animal.I can bolt on a HEI and a carb in a couple hours have at least 60 more horsepower DONE.Or I can mess with tuning the computer and deal with the codes and foul running engine a month untill it right, like everyone else on the forum that I seen do it. :2:
 
#10 ·
chevymaher said:
Yes they are nice if they work right.We talkin about the van here not a cars that work..Or spend ungodly amounts of money and time putting in a different system that works and tuning it for the van.,Kinda like the factory 11 sec computer cars on that count.What in the van a different animal.I can bolt on a HEI and a carb in a couple hours have at least 60 more horsepower DONE.Or I can mess with tuning the computer and deal with the codes and foul running engine a month untill it right, like everyone else on the forum that I seen do it. :2:
Yes they are nice when they work right ,,even on a van ,everyone knows that allowing the wheels to turn while braking to prevent lockup and skidding is the best way to control and steer a car on ice or slick roads be it snow or ice or rain when braking ,In short a description the abs simulates a driver pumping the pedal to slow the car to prevent brake lockup by slamming the pedal down ;; abs can do it faster than a person can , but when they are not working right , it can be expensive to repair , but not always ,,,most any vehicle parts will wear with age

surely you are not saying that adding a 70's style HEI distributor will add HP ? That just increased the voltage output of the coil and added an electronic ignition module to replace points ,,,,,,today's cars . vans and trucks still have HEI High Energy Ignition ,still puts out at least 40,000 volts and some systems put out more , it just that it has evolved in application . The coil on any Gen2 van puts out the same 40,000 volts and has a electronic module mounted on a heat sink outside of the distributor to achieve better cooling than the ones mounted inside the distributor housing. Just adding any ole carb does not guarantee 60 HP it would have to be specific in design ,,and also there are fuel injection system that can do the same just need to be specific in design

Tuning a OBD car or van is basically the same , it just you use different tools ,, with OBD you plug a cable in to diagnostic port and sit in your chair and watch the laptop screen show you specifics of what is happening under the hood and you click a button to change timing or air/fuel ratio etc etc ,,,... you have the base knowledge of tuning , all you have to do is learn how to use the new laptop tools and you can apply the knowledge and skill and experience you have acquired through the years and do the same work with a new tool ..think of it as like tire technology , today's tires are far more advanced the the tires of the 60's ,,,,,but still just a tire that does the same thing as in earlier years :mrgreen:
 
#11 ·
No I am saying there is no decent intake for the computer engine style for the V-6.There is a good one for a carb.Nice aluminum high HP style.Dyno program showing a big improvement with it alone.If it was a 350 there all kinds of stuff available to upgrade the EFI But not the lowly V-6.Parts are kinda scarce for it.Distributor cheaper than tuning the computer and I good with 60 thou volts timed correctly.Only things available are circle track parts from that class of modifieds for real power at a affordable price.Since I got a OBD1 I kinda burnt on the tuning aspect.Buy a 200 dollar special chip if it not what you want your burnt.Or buy a chip burner again not cheap. Or go with something cheaper that easily tuned.I still shopping to see what out there.I will never rewire the van like I seen done.Hot, ground, a fuel pressure regulator done.If I had OBD2 I would already be playing with the computer.I keeping this van till it throws in the towel and its computer bites.
 
#12 ·
chevymaher said:
No I am saying there is no decent intake for the computer engine style for the V-6.There is a good one for a carb.Nice aluminum high HP style.Dyno program showing a big improvement with it alone. I good with 60 thou volts timed correctly.Since I got a OBD1 I kinda burnt on the tuning aspect.Buy a 200 dollar special chip if it not what you want your burnt.Or buy a chip burner again not cheap. Or go with something cheaper that easily tuned.I still shopping to see what out there.I will never rewire the van like I seen done.Hot, ground, a fuel pressure regulator done.If I had OBD2 I would already be playing with the computer.I keeping this van till it throws in the towel and its computer bites.
A big advantage of the tuning software is that it is a tool , to be used on other vehicles
It not only can tune the computer but it does all the other things that a OBD live scanner can do , test sensors, read codes clear codes, adjust speedo for different size tires and all the other stuff . ...there are also some progs that have Dyno tuning , 1/4 ET times , 0-60 ET , ....

I am a little puzzled in what you are saying . In regard to the 4.3 V6 I have not looked to see if there are any intakes that are better for HP , there might be , and even if you go the route of a performance intake for a carb , there is still a price for that , then you have to buy a carb to put on it , and there is no way to know how much HP gain there is done just by hear or driving it as you can't tell the difference of a 20 HP increase and a 40 HP increase unless you put it on a dyno and measure it at the wheels . With a carb you not only have to buy one you have to spend more labor in taking it apart a few times to change jets , experiment with various nozzle sizes , and metering rods or blocks and then test to see if it made an improvement , Even back in the day when they came with a carb ,, changing to a different intake and a different carb would make a difference in power , and you still incur the cost of those performance parts ,,so that is really not a equal comparison to if a vehicle has a computer or not
.
Buying a HEI dizzy ;How can that apply and be efficient as first you have to buy the distributor ,,there is a cost ,,and the computer is already there all you need is the software to install on the laptop , now that has a cost as well , but it is far better because it has more uses than just tuning , and it can be used on more vehicles than the one in question ,, a distributor can only be on one engine ,,
There is no way to get 60,000 volts out of a coil that is designed for 18-20,000 or 40,000 volts , it not possible to tune an engine to get more voltage out of a coil than what the coil has to offer from the design it was built on, if that were possible the factory would just tweak the tuning of an engine to get more voltage out of the coil,,, If you notice that when the coil starts to degrade in its output the power and drive-ability suffers as a result , there is no way to tune an engine by timing or any other means to bring the voltage output back up to where it was . the voltage output of a coil is derived from the primary and secondary windings of the coil itself , not from any external devices or any type of tuning

With OBD1 in the 90's there is no need to buy any special chip ,,,all the performance tuning is done with the software tool on the laptop ,,those special chips are only for people who don't want to tune the chip them self.
EEPROM chips are Electrically Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory,,,,which is just like the BIOS chip in a laptop or desktop PC ,,it takes a software program that "flashes" or burns in to the memory of the chip a new set of instructions that can only be read , by the computer . the flash process erases the old instruction set and replaces it with a new instruction set , it can only be changed by special software used for tuning , this type of instruction set is called Firmware as it can only be read and not altered unless the tuning software program has been connected to it .

Once you get the tuning software on your PC you can re-tune your chip whenever you want to and not have to pay for anything , because you already have everything you need to do it , This is the dominant method of tuning OBD1 vettes, cameros , firebirds , trucks and any other car that a person desires to tune the engine for more HP and quicker faster times at the track , If you check out the forums for those cars you will see what I mean .

But it seems that we have drifted away from the abs topic
 
#13 ·
I never found the E-prom chips in my hunts.That sounds like a sweet deal I will be looking them up.I just going by comp cams dyno program which has always proven to be accurate in the past on everything I ever used it for.And obviously there is not a whole heck of alot of difference in thier eyes either between Computer and mechanical controls as they list carb and EFI computer controlled as same expected horsepower output.I would think they ran some test.My brother worked in a dyno shop 10 years they were not seeing a big difference either.And guys were dynoing the exact same motor with carb and computer controls.6-8 hp better all they were getting on a 400 HP engine.When the chevelle still ran I was not getting whooped by new cars, it all modifyed stock parts from something mixed together.And it had a Q-jet single intake then.Aluminum high rise but factory.Same thing I lookin to do now.As far as parts go.95% of what I need already laying in that garage.Just need to dig them out of the loft.Carbs distributors the kit to switch a Dizzy from V-8 to V-6 really cheap.Nobody wants small carbs so we end up with a pile of them.Just need some cheap jets.There one now on the 2X4 bbl intake just for looks but it to big for a dual app and to small for a good V-8 single carb.If I go V-8 game over engine just sittin there Need a decent block to rebuild.All baloney aside I know how it runs I tore it up last time.I a skinflint and so far I not seeing a substantial gain to be had for the stuff I will need to buy. I just riding the fence right now.When somebody with an identical motor except the EFI computer puts the whoop on me bad I will be a believer.So far mechanical parts heads intakes exhaust where the best bang for the buck still is.
 
#14 ·
Initially when the computers were put in cars and trucks , the purpose in mind was not any kind of power of performance upgrade , ...it was to monitor and keep in check the hydrocarbon emissions of the engine into the air we breathe , it also was designed to inform the driver that some component was sending signals to the ECM that a part was bad or something in the system was wrong , and sometimes cause the engine to go into limp mode to prevent engine damage . Because the systems are involved with automatically changing timing , fuel ratios spark advance all pre-programmed into the computer and various parts were no longer adjustable , it then came to the attention to some companies that they could reprogram the ECM to change the timing, fuel ratios , spark advance to a more performance HP oriented tuning method to give back to the consumer that ability to custom tune their own vehicles .

Because there will always be people who want to tinker with their own cars & trucks , these tuning programs became poplar to those who want to tweak their own rides,, Without these ECM/PCM computer tuning tools a person has to accept whatever settings the factory give them ,, They are not only good for track times , but also for tweaking power/torque for the best trailer towing needs , very popular with diesels too.

Since the car makers realized that consumers were buying these computer tuning tools and seen that consumers still want powerful fast tire melting cars to drive on the street , they again started building that type of car for people who want that power , Which is why cars like the Camaro , Challenger , Charger and such , are now back in production .the car makers now tune their cars to be fast when tuning HP Performance factory muscle.

It is just that car makers are making muscle now with computers , it is not economically feasible to pull out a computer system in a car that can run fast track times and get 25 mpg doing it , to replace it with a carb and do the same with 15mpg , so it will only be old cars that use carbs because fuel injection has shown to get better mpg compared to carbs

it is only costly to people who don't know how or want to know how to tune computer cars ,,much like it is more costly to a person to have a shop install a fresh clean install of the Desktop computer OS @ $99 or more , compared to a person who can install their own OS for free. :)
 
#15 ·
A beautiful and informative discussion gentlemen, but it would greatly benefit others in it's own topic rather than buried in an ABS discussion! ( Not trying to be a butthead here, please don't take it personally) :)
 
#17 ·
As previously stated, make sure there's no corrosion behind the sensors, check the wiring, etc. Let us know how things go!
(screeching might be the need for brake pads)
 
#19 ·
Yessir, the section moderator or a global moderator can pluck this part out and move it. :)
 
#20 ·
manny951 said:
this weekend i am gonna pull out the abs sensors and see what is going on but i know it has to do something in the hubs i hear a screetching sound from the left side
Yea , be interesting in what you find , I have not had mine off , but on the car there was a flat cable with 2 wires in it that were a integral part of the hub that had the sensor and had to replace the hub in order to replace the sensor , as it was the wire to the sensor that was damaged , On my van there seems to be an electrical connect problem as sometimes the abs light would go out and the abs brakes would be fine ,,,,then it would come back with that problem at stop sign , then abs light come back on , so I just pulled fuse for now , when I get more time I'll look into what is wrong, but I have no screeching , no noises at all.
The ears on the pads night be the screeching , unless there is a more serious problem , let us know what you find and pics if possible
 
#23 ·
need a bit of help .... again. I'm having problems with the brakes on my 03 safari awd, I replaced the rotors becouse of a nasty feedback shake problem, still have it !!! guess its possable my new lifetime Wagner rotors might be bad, don't know, and it sucks but havent been feeling to good here of late to crawl around on the van, nor have the $$ to have it fixed (been busy giving $$ to doctors), then the abs started acting up, sometimes it would let me come to a stop and sometimes not, so I pulled my abs fuse, becouse that lets me stop (sometimes a shakey stop), now I have to deal with the abs light staying on..... AND ..the brake light. I can live without the abs, but the freaking lights are a pain. also read on here that on some vans the awd wont work if the abs is disconnected, is this true for my year ? and will my van pass pa state inspection with the abs disconnected ? So question #1 How do i turn the lights out ? and #2 If the lights are out will it pass state inspection. as of for the rotors a parts counter person at pep boys told me to chalk the wheels and jack one front wheel off the ground, put it in drive and try the brakes to see which one might be warped. does this sound right ? p l e a s e h e l p :crying:
 
#24 ·
The only true way I know of to turn the light off is to remove the bulb , you have to remove the instrument cluster and access the back of it to remove the bulb,,, some people just put a piece of black tape over the abs lighted area on the dash faceplate so they don't have to remove the cluster ,, it covers it up so you don't see it ,,,it comes on when you pull the fuse or the abs has a problem ,, it is designed that way to let you know that the abs has a problem

To pass inspection it be better to remove the bulb if it won't pass with the bulb light up ,, if you can hide the tape over effect they may not say anything ,, but if they see it and pull the tape it may be a problem ,, that will be dependent on how strict your community is on that matter , and on the person doing the inspection

It will depend on how bad the warping is , if you can't notice at a slow rpm sitting still ,,, a brake shop can use a tool to measure rotor thickness while turning by hand and will show exactly where the warping is ,,, if warped you should be able to get an exchange for free under warranty,, I have done that before ,
 
#25 ·
Okay well i fixed my problem with the abs i will tell you this my dads hubs where tighten all the way down so i guess one of the got loose tried to come out but never did come out it was right on the edge but this made the abs light come on so i ordered new hubs not so bad off ebay replace both sides just incase my dad forgot to tighten the axle bolts so i did it this time use a compact gun and double check with a bar evreything has been working so great but when i did take them off i notice they are really dirty with dirt and they are magnetise so alot of pieces of metal sticks to it just take them off reclean them if that doesn't work might be the hub is wearing out fixed the issue van works great radiator just cracked leaking very little but i already got a list im gonna dump into it about 298 dollars and should be running for a long time now
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top