kingdomcome84 said:
Im on eBayy about to buy this listing
http://www.ebay.com/itm/351068404071?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Is there anything else I should also replace while replacing these?
Perhaps the parts guy that said they didn't exist was trying to spell it with two t's "Pittman", a common error...
That eBay kit is essentially everything related to your steering.
To install all that stuff, you will need some tools. There are "How to's" about all of them here somewhere.
UPPER BALL JOINTS - You'll need to drill out the OEM rivets that hold them in place. The new ball joints install with bolts
LOWER BALL JOINTS - You'll need to rent a loaner tool from LAP to press out the lower BJs and to press the new ones in.
BOTH BALL JOINTS - You'll need to rent a ball joint separator tool, or a pickle fork, or study up on the hammer separation method in order to separate the BJ from it's link. For some, this is a HUGE challenge. For others, it's simple. I think it depends on your mental approach to the thing.
JACKS AND STANDS - You'll need to remove the front wheels and jack up the front end. So you'll need some kind of floor jack and most importantly at least two jack stands. Jack it up with the jack, then put the jack stands under the subframe. Don't work under the van with just the jack holding that 3 tons of steel over you.
You'll really need another small jack, like a spare tire changing scissor jack, to help you move the lower control arm into place when lining things up for re-assembly.
TORQUE WRENCH - They're ten bucks at Harbor Freight. Half inch drive, bunch of sockets, socket extensions
GREASE GUN and GREASE - Once you install the ball joints and idler arms and all the other arms and links, you'll need to lube 'em
WHEEL ALIGNMENT - You're replacing the gizmos that align your wheels (the tie rods). So after you install new ones, you'll need to do a wheel alignment. You can ball park it at home then carefully drive a short distance to an alignment shop. Or you can actually do it at home. There's a How To about that too in the steering section somewhere.
BREAKING LOOSE BOLTS - The nuts and bolts on there have been there for a really long time, exposed to a lot of gunk, water, rust, dirt. They will be hard to break loose. Air tools are great, you probably don't have those. Breaker bars, penetrating oil, well chosen cuss words, BFHammer etc.
MISC THIS AND THAT - You're going to have the brakes and rotors disconnected from everything so you might as well assess the condition of the disc surface and consider replacing the discs. You could have them resurfaced but it's really not much more expensive to just replace. Doing that you'll be replacing the wheel bearings. The Wheel Bearings are actually the least expensive part of the whole enchilada. They're just 5 or 10 bucks per side (Right and Left). You'll need a can of wheel bearing grease and gloves to repack the bearings (old or new).
Also while the brakes are off, consider replacing the brake pads. That's one of the simplest jobs on the van. There's a pair of 3/8 hex socket bolts that hold the brake calipers in place. You'll need a hex key or a ratchet hex bit for that.
Brake parts cleaner, degreaser, penetrating lube, loctite, wheel bearing grease, cartridge grease and gun, jacks, jack stands, sockets, wrenches, special ball joint tools, breaker bars, rags, safety glasses, creeper or old yoga pad, two or three days, spare car and funds for emergency drives to LAP for parts, hand cleaner.
EDIT TO INCLUDE: Cotter pins and diagonal cutting pliers (Dikes). The steering arms and their joints typically have a cotter pin retainer. Probably supplied with the new parts. There's always one missing or you break one or you need to re-set a couple and so need new pins. Assortment in a plastic box at LAP is more then you'll use in a lifetime. Cost a few bucks.
I'm probably leaving something out. It's a fun job, in my opinion, to replace front end parts.
All of the above doesn't address the question "Do you need to replace them".
Lump