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I may have found a good deal

2K views 18 replies 13 participants last post by  timelessbeing 
#1 ·
I went to order a pair of the cheapo idler arms from Rockauto and while perusing the half dozen choices available, I saw that the pictures of the Raybestos idlers were strangely close to the pics of NAPA's NCP line that Collinsautomotive mentioned in another thread. So, I decided to gamble $71 apiece for them. I got them today and they are the Spicer brand. I think they are the same NAPA arms. They have "made in USA" cast in them and the inside of the box has bragging info about design/testing, yada.



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So, rather than paying $100+ apiece at NAPA, you may want to save some dough.
 
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#4 ·
I haven't used a pickle fork in years, and I always hated using them anyways, because they seemed like an incredibly brutal and damaging way of getting things apart. A few years ago, I fabricated a tool to remove the ball joints from my A-arm on my Caprice that pushed the lower joint stud against the upper, and it seemed like a better way than beating the heck out of things with a pickle fork. Is anyone here aware of an available tool that I can use here that will separate the 'taper' stud from its seat without hammering? Come on boys, don't let me down. :mrgreen:

If not, I'll probably end up having the 'one-shop-that-I-trust' do the job (even though it's an inconvenience), because I just don't have the strength or stamina to "reef" on stuff under a car anymore.
 
#5 ·
JayDubya said:
I went to order a pair of the cheapo idler arms from Rockauto and while perusing the half dozen choices available, I saw that the pictures of the Raybestos idlers were strangely close to the pics of NAPA's NCP line that Collinsautomotive mentioned in another thread. So, I decided to gamble $71 apiece for them. I got them today and they are the Spicer brand. I think they are the same NAPA arms. They have "made in USA" cast in them and the inside of the box has bragging info about design/testing, yada.

[ [url=http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/7003/spicer.jpg] ][/url]

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So, rather than paying $100+ apiece at NAPA, you may want to save some dough.
Must be old stock but NAPA did buy the spicer operation that makes steering parts. If you got spicer parts those are all top notch components and should last a long time.
 
#7 ·
JayDubya said:
Is anyone here aware of an available tool that I can use here that will separate the 'taper' stud from its seat without hammering? Come on boys, don't let me down. :mrgreen:

If not, I'll probably end up having the 'one-shop-that-I-trust' do the job (even though it's an inconvenience), because I just don't have the strength or stamina to "reef" on stuff under a car anymore.
I Use the 2 BFH Metod. One BFH on the seat, a smaller for hitting the opposite side.
doesnt it move, I use LeeAnn`s tool. put some pressure on it and Wam it.
then it does PLONK and it`s off :rofl:
 
#9 ·
i know my answer is a bit off what you are looking for but i use a 4 lb sledge. no fork or other tools. just loosen the nut and keep it on the end of the threads in case you miss, also when it seperates it will keep the pars from crashing into the floor. just give the part that has the stud in it a few good hits. taken all kinds of ball joints out that way. much easier than a pickle for sure.
 
#10 ·
I don't know if you have an air compressor, but i use an air chisel with a pickle fork bit. It is great! tap the trigger for about 2 seconds and pop, ball joints, tie rod and idler arm break apart in a snap. 90% of the time with ball joints the rubber is unharmed. I got the air chisel and the bit for under $50 at harbor freight.
 
#11 ·
$uperJoe said:
i know my answer is a bit off what you are looking for but i use a 4 lb sledge. no fork or other tools. just loosen the nut and keep it on the end of the threads in case you miss, also when it seperates it will keep the pars from crashing into the floor. just give the part that has the stud in it a few good hits. taken all kinds of ball joints out that way. much easier than a pickle for sure.
Thats the same way i break them loose. except i keep a floor jack under the lower control arm then after i break the ball joint loose i'll use the jack to put a little pressure on it take the nut off and let it down slowy to releive pressure of the coil spring the i'll slide the coil spring out
 
#12 ·
$uperJoe said:
i know my answer is a bit off what you are looking for but i use a 4 lb sledge. no fork or other tools. just loosen the nut and keep it on the end of the threads in case you miss, also when it seperates it will keep the pars from crashing into the floor. just give the part that has the stud in it a few good hits. taken all kinds of ball joints out that way. much easier than a pickle for sure.
Same way my dad taught me,

ps what the hell is a pickle fork :confused:
 
#16 ·
Thanks for the replies, guys. I have hammered and banged on front end parts in the past, but I don't want to do it anymore because I am convinced that the hammering could be damaging to the parts around the job (like the steering box, etc.), and because I am just too old & beat up to hammer efficiently anymore.
I have a huge puller like the one 'timelessbeing' pictured, and there looks to be enough room under the van to use it, so that looks to be the method for my first attempts. ;-)
 
#17 ·
Sometimes when a special tool is called for (refering of course to the Factory Service Manual by Helm) it helps to go to the end of the chapter where there is a page showing all the special tools. If you are handy, and have a lathe, drill press, and welding equipment in your inventory, you can fabricate some of the tools with little or no trouble. I have done so many times through out the years. There are also some parts stores that will rent/lend special tools that will help make the job go easier. Don't forget, Harbor Freight is also a great source for the mechanic that only has an occasional need for these odd tools.

Sincerely, Bob
 
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