i had mine out in an hour and a half, but then i also took pics. here's how.
the tools.
specialty tools: steering pully puller, compressor, air chisle.
breaker bar, 3/8"adaptor
1/4"drive sockets, 8mm,10mm,13mm, extentions.
3/8"drive sockets, 10mm,13mm,14mm deep, extentions. i like spark plug ratchet.
wrenches, 10mm,13mm,14mm,16mm, 20mm/13/16. 20mm is really tight and you will find 13/16 is better.
panel popper
large flathead screwdriver
foam ear plug
channel lock pliers, regular pliers
2 bungi cords
step 1
unplug mas/vas from corragated intake tube
using 8mm with ratchet, loosen the intake clamp from the intake elbo. using the panel popper, pry up on filter box from each side, disconnect cold air tube and resinator. give a good pull upwards to seperate the filter box from the fan shroud. twist the whole box and intake tube untill the intake tube gives, then just pull back. the whole intake comes out.
step 2
using 10mm 1/4" ratchet with 8" of extention(s) pull 4 coarse thread bolts from sides of fan shroud, then 3 bolts on the top. pull up on the passenger side of the shroud untill it clears the rad cap. you will have to battle with the throttle cable and upper rad hose, but don't remove the rad hose. best way is to get your right arm under both and allow shroud top to pull up from passenger side. you will want to compress the top to clear the master cylinder.
step 3
fan removal and belt removal. get out the air chisle. you don't need much but there is a method to using. chisle to the left and carefully engrave the left side of a flat on the fan nut. as soon as the fan nut moves, it's enough. take channel lock pliers and loosen 1 full turn, then just spin the fan off by hand... unless the clutch is worn, then you have to spin with your hand.then pull out the lower fan shroud from passenger side. there are 3 tabs that will need to be released. using a breaker bar with 3/8" adaptor with 3/8" extention. release pressure from the tentioner and remove belt.
step 4
seperate the a/c pump and support a/c. remove 4 13mm bolts from the top of a/c pump. there is a short, black bracket which is held in by one of the a/c bolts and a 10mm bolt holding the oil add tube. remove bracket but not the oil add tube, just remove the 10mm bolt. wrap a bungi cord around the a/c pully, then stretch bungi up to hood pin. the hood support will hold. you only want to support the a/c pump about 1"
step 5
remove the pump and bracket. you don't need to remove the pully at this point, start with the hard nut first, it's located on the side of the block just behind the pump. it's easy to remove from the top, it's blind though. this is where i like the spark plug ratchet. feel around a bit, you will find it, you just can't see it. get a deep 14mm socket and fit over the nut and just crack it loose, don't remove cause you will forget where it goes. just loose. then remove 3 14mm bolts from the front and one nut. the nut is a support stud and if you remove cause the nut is bound up, place the stud back and thread it back in.
step 6
using a normal pair of pliers, pull the hose clamp down to the middle of the resivior return hose, use of a panel popper makes quick work of seperating this hose. make sure to have a small catch pan under the res hose. remove 2 10mm bolts from power steering resivior. tip the exsess out into the catch pan. using a foam ear plug, fit into resivior return hole and you will want it almost all the way in... don't worry, it will expand out enough so you can retreve it after. twist the resivior counterclock wise and shove it down towards the pump/bracket, twisting the hose around the brake booster. you will need to move the a/c pump sideways for the res to clear, then making sure the lid is on tight and the ear plug is still secure, flop it down onto the steering links below.
step 7
there are 3 connections still left. grab the bottom of the power steering pully with right hand hand and lift a/c pump with left hand and forcefully wiggle the steering pump bracket off. be carefull here cause the electrical connection is very short. remove power steering bracket and let it gently flop onto the steering links below. that exposes the bottom return line connection, the high pressure line and the electrical plug. the high pressure line is 16mm wrench. have an oil pan under the van to catch all the powersteering fluid.
remove steering pump pully and bracket as an assembly and place it in drain pan. remove ear plug.
step 8
using a powersteering pully puller tool to remove the pully on the bench. if you don't know how to use the puller tool, stop and get the info cause you WILL strip the threads on the tool as well as on the pump. there are 3 13mm bolts under the pully and 2 nuts holding a rear bracket to the back of the pump housing. that's it.
you can order a new pump with a new housing, which is pricy. or if you have just a new pump it will come with the nessasary o-rings. plan on a new o-ring for the high pressure line also.
the electrical potion is a bit complex and will require you to sit down and take your time. the metal is soft alluminum. i have a pic of all it's components in an exploded view to show the order of removal, cause at this point... i can't explain. i don't even know what to call this part(s).
hope this helps speed up the process of a dificult removal. as you will see, there are many skipped procedures that i find makes a bigger mess and overcomplicates the whole job.
reinstallation: lay the pump/bracket assembly on it's side. attatch the high pressure line first and remember to put the line on the inside of lower bracket and tighten with the line twisted so that when you install the assembly, the line will straighten on it's own. cause it's a real pain to tighten this line from the bottom. then feed the resivior back through to is final resting point. install assembly onto stud, it will click one time, then you can push it into place making sure the rear fork bracket installs onto stud. put bracket housing bolts (14mm) back in and tighten down, do not forget to tighten the nut on the back. the rest is simpley the reverse of removal.
the tools.
specialty tools: steering pully puller, compressor, air chisle.
breaker bar, 3/8"adaptor
1/4"drive sockets, 8mm,10mm,13mm, extentions.
3/8"drive sockets, 10mm,13mm,14mm deep, extentions. i like spark plug ratchet.
wrenches, 10mm,13mm,14mm,16mm, 20mm/13/16. 20mm is really tight and you will find 13/16 is better.
panel popper
large flathead screwdriver
foam ear plug
channel lock pliers, regular pliers
2 bungi cords
step 1
unplug mas/vas from corragated intake tube
using 8mm with ratchet, loosen the intake clamp from the intake elbo. using the panel popper, pry up on filter box from each side, disconnect cold air tube and resinator. give a good pull upwards to seperate the filter box from the fan shroud. twist the whole box and intake tube untill the intake tube gives, then just pull back. the whole intake comes out.
step 2
using 10mm 1/4" ratchet with 8" of extention(s) pull 4 coarse thread bolts from sides of fan shroud, then 3 bolts on the top. pull up on the passenger side of the shroud untill it clears the rad cap. you will have to battle with the throttle cable and upper rad hose, but don't remove the rad hose. best way is to get your right arm under both and allow shroud top to pull up from passenger side. you will want to compress the top to clear the master cylinder.
step 3
fan removal and belt removal. get out the air chisle. you don't need much but there is a method to using. chisle to the left and carefully engrave the left side of a flat on the fan nut. as soon as the fan nut moves, it's enough. take channel lock pliers and loosen 1 full turn, then just spin the fan off by hand... unless the clutch is worn, then you have to spin with your hand.then pull out the lower fan shroud from passenger side. there are 3 tabs that will need to be released. using a breaker bar with 3/8" adaptor with 3/8" extention. release pressure from the tentioner and remove belt.
step 4
seperate the a/c pump and support a/c. remove 4 13mm bolts from the top of a/c pump. there is a short, black bracket which is held in by one of the a/c bolts and a 10mm bolt holding the oil add tube. remove bracket but not the oil add tube, just remove the 10mm bolt. wrap a bungi cord around the a/c pully, then stretch bungi up to hood pin. the hood support will hold. you only want to support the a/c pump about 1"
step 5
remove the pump and bracket. you don't need to remove the pully at this point, start with the hard nut first, it's located on the side of the block just behind the pump. it's easy to remove from the top, it's blind though. this is where i like the spark plug ratchet. feel around a bit, you will find it, you just can't see it. get a deep 14mm socket and fit over the nut and just crack it loose, don't remove cause you will forget where it goes. just loose. then remove 3 14mm bolts from the front and one nut. the nut is a support stud and if you remove cause the nut is bound up, place the stud back and thread it back in.
step 6
using a normal pair of pliers, pull the hose clamp down to the middle of the resivior return hose, use of a panel popper makes quick work of seperating this hose. make sure to have a small catch pan under the res hose. remove 2 10mm bolts from power steering resivior. tip the exsess out into the catch pan. using a foam ear plug, fit into resivior return hole and you will want it almost all the way in... don't worry, it will expand out enough so you can retreve it after. twist the resivior counterclock wise and shove it down towards the pump/bracket, twisting the hose around the brake booster. you will need to move the a/c pump sideways for the res to clear, then making sure the lid is on tight and the ear plug is still secure, flop it down onto the steering links below.
step 7
there are 3 connections still left. grab the bottom of the power steering pully with right hand hand and lift a/c pump with left hand and forcefully wiggle the steering pump bracket off. be carefull here cause the electrical connection is very short. remove power steering bracket and let it gently flop onto the steering links below. that exposes the bottom return line connection, the high pressure line and the electrical plug. the high pressure line is 16mm wrench. have an oil pan under the van to catch all the powersteering fluid.
remove steering pump pully and bracket as an assembly and place it in drain pan. remove ear plug.
step 8
using a powersteering pully puller tool to remove the pully on the bench. if you don't know how to use the puller tool, stop and get the info cause you WILL strip the threads on the tool as well as on the pump. there are 3 13mm bolts under the pully and 2 nuts holding a rear bracket to the back of the pump housing. that's it.
you can order a new pump with a new housing, which is pricy. or if you have just a new pump it will come with the nessasary o-rings. plan on a new o-ring for the high pressure line also.
the electrical potion is a bit complex and will require you to sit down and take your time. the metal is soft alluminum. i have a pic of all it's components in an exploded view to show the order of removal, cause at this point... i can't explain. i don't even know what to call this part(s).
hope this helps speed up the process of a dificult removal. as you will see, there are many skipped procedures that i find makes a bigger mess and overcomplicates the whole job.
reinstallation: lay the pump/bracket assembly on it's side. attatch the high pressure line first and remember to put the line on the inside of lower bracket and tighten with the line twisted so that when you install the assembly, the line will straighten on it's own. cause it's a real pain to tighten this line from the bottom. then feed the resivior back through to is final resting point. install assembly onto stud, it will click one time, then you can push it into place making sure the rear fork bracket installs onto stud. put bracket housing bolts (14mm) back in and tighten down, do not forget to tighten the nut on the back. the rest is simpley the reverse of removal.