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Steering box replacement how to- or not to if you're smart!

76K views 43 replies 14 participants last post by  gengomepyle 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
OK, I did mine. Before I did a bunch of searches and found nothing like this so I'll post up my experience and opinions for your amusement. Oh yeah...W/PICS! With luck, the next poor slob doing this will find this post and get a little help.

If I miss or mistake anything here speak up! I'm no mechanic and don't want to mislead anyone.

First and foremost, this is a PITA, if you have any doubt as to "can I do it?" don't do it if you can afford not to. If you have any second thoughts whatsoever about your ability, stop reading and run to your mechanic. My van is a 1997 GMC Safari, RWD, 4.3L, with no AC and over 200K miles on it. 100 K hard miles on it myself for work so every bolt and fitting were frozen, rusted or corroded, making this job much more difficult. I have the repair manual and while this is great for reference you really need to know the work-a-rounds.

My victim!



This job took me from Sat. afternoon through most of Sunday, discounting dinner breaks and trips to the auto parts I would guess it took me all of 10 hours. I needed a helper only to reinstall.

Oddball tools you will need, goodies not necessarily in everyone's toolbox:

  • 16, 17mm flare nut wrenches
  • 32mm ½" drive socket for the pitman arm
  • pitman arm puller, solid 2-finger type is what I have.
  • torch for heating frozen parts. Plain old bernzomatic will do just fine.
  • I have an air chisel w/ a center punch. If you have a compressor and can grab one of these, do so. Otherwise, you're swinging a lump hammer at a very small punch being held by very fat thumbs!
  • 2 quarts power steering fluid, I used Lucas w/ conditioners in the hopes it will give the rest of the system a little more life.
  • 3 replacement o-rings for the high pressure lines, the steering box I got from Rock Auto .com came with only the 2 are used on the box.
  • A gallon or two of WD40 to drown the front end is helpful also! Spray everything the day before and keep the can handy once you start. I use it with a rag before I start and wipe everything in the area just to clean the grease and grime in order to see the parts I need to see. My truck's a mess.
  • The basic instruction from the repair manual with my suggestions and PICS for those of us who really don't read the articles...

Steering Gear - removal and installation

Warning: On models equipped with airbags, make sure the steering shaft is not turned while the steering gear is removed or you could damage the airbag system.

Removal
A. Raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jack stands. Apply the parking brake.
(Be sure it's rock solid, test it, try to push it off because when you start breaking those rusty old bolts underneath it might be a little late …)
B. Place a drain pan under the steering gear. Remove the power steering pressure and return lines and cap the ends to prevent contamination.

(This is one of those "workarounds". You can't get at them at the steering box so they come out with it. Disconnect them at the other ends, my truck, the return line connects underneath with a spring clamp, (circled in red)



and the pressure line is up by the reservoir into what I think is the power assist. (red circle)



Use the proper flare nut wrenches and plenty of WD unless you want to replace these lines. I tap the wrench with a hammer to free these guys. I covered them with a rag taped on rather than plugs so everything drains out.)

C. Mark the relationship of the lower intermediate shaft universal joint to the steering gear input shaft. Remove the lower intermediate shaft pinch bolt. (Again, you'll need to take this shaft and the rubber boot with the steering box and remove and reinstall them outside the truck.

Disconnect the topside; I moved the fuse box, and Loosen the boot over the intermediate shaft. (mid-shaft from here on in!) I removed 4 screws holding the top portion of the boot to the firewall. (pictured above circled in yellow) Pull the boot down to expose the upper joint of the mid shaft, reference mark both sides and remove the bolt.

This bolt needs to be removed for the clamp to slide as it catches a groove in the upper shaft. Spread the clamp a bit w/ a flathead screwdriver and it should slide off easy, the mid-shaft is telescopic.)

D. Mark the relationship of the Pitman arm to the Pitman shaft so it can be installed in the same position. Remove the nut and washer.

E. Remove the Pitman arm from the shaft with a two-jaw puller
(Again, removing this in the truck isn't likely. I separated the joint between the pitman arm and the control rod. If your pitman arm puller is the type that has movable jaws use it here.

Most of the time I can get these apart and intact with some heat on the socket and a lump hammer on the stud. Don't bugger the threads; if you do a dremel tool grinds them off nicely! If you have an air chisel, center punch the stud and let the air do the work. Lots of ways to get these apart if you don't need to replace any other parts.)

F. Support the steering gear and remove the steering gear-to-frame mounting bolts. Lower the unit, separate the intermediate shaft from the steering gear input shaft and remove the steering gear from the vehicle.

Installation prep

I pulled the lines off first, lots of WD and tapping of wrenches. Replace the o-rings and move them right over to the new steering box. Tighten them and cover the open ends.

Next, I moved the mid-shaft, remove the boot, it will pry off. The wire inside mine disintegrated so I jury-rigged it back on after moving the mid-shaft. A large hose clamp should work well here, I used fabric hockey tape. Take the mid-shaft off the steering box and install it on the new in the same direction relative to the outside of the box. Mine is keyed so I mounted to the key and turned the shaft in the proper direction. Eyeball the reference just to be sure you're in the right direction.)

To separate the pitman arm on mine I used my puller, lots of heat and tapping w/ a hammer. I put it on the new w/ the washer and nut finger tight. Again the splines have keys, 4 keys on mine, at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock. Match the orientation to the way it was removed. Tighten after installation and all is well.)

Shiny and new



Dressed to go!



Installation

A. Raise the steering gear into position and connect the intermediate shaft, aligning the marks.
B. Install the mounting bolts and washers and tighten them to the specified torque.
C. Slide the Pitman arm onto the Pitman shaft, ensuring that the marks are aligned. Install the washer and nut and tighten the nut to the specified torque.
D. Install the lower intermediate shaft pinch bolt and tighten it to the specified torque.
(UPPER mid-shaft! Don't forget to slide the upper section of the boot back on before connecting the mid-shaft. Install the shaft to your reference mark and replace the pinch bolt. Screw your rubber on and put back the fuse box.
E. Connect the power steering gear and fill the power steering pump reservoir with the recommended fluid.
(Connect the pressure and return lines, add fluid.)
(Reconnect the control arm and tighten the pitman arm.)
F. Lower the vehicle and bleed the steering system.

:driving:
This post is my way of saying thanks to all those posting before with information and helpful tips, I'm sorry I hadn't found this site sooner! I've always bought the repair manual for all my vehicles and find them to be priceless tools in my bag of tricks, now I'll keep a notebook PC on hand.

:ty:
I'm sure you guys have tips n' tricks that would save the next guy some hassles so post 'em up!

Now if someone would direct me to the instructional post about body lifts???
 
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#4 ·
I thought I would add to this to the great write up since I replaced the box on my 2000 GMC Safari van AWD last weekend. Didn't take any pictures. I used the above as a base line, but had to do some things differently since mine was AWD. The first problem is the sway bar is further back on the AWD and does not allow room for the box to be removed from the bottom.

I removed the fan shroud to get mine out. Start by removing the air filter box, then remove the three bolts across the top of the shroud attaching it to the radiator support. Then remove the 2 bolts on each side holdling the top half of the shroud to the bottom half. Once the top half is removed, I removed the engine fan using a 14" adjustable wrench. With the fan removed, I could remove the lower half of the shroud. With the shroud removed, I could readily access the steering box. I started by lifting the rubber boot on the steering intermediate shaft from the steering box and removed the bolt holding the shaft to the steering box. I was then able to pry/lift the shaft from the box with a screw driver. I then removed the hoses from the box using an 18mm tubing wrench. I then pulled the wire clips from the engine oil cooler lines attached to the radiator and disconnected them to allow clearance to remove the box. From underneath, I separated the drag link from the pitman arm using a pickle fork. Due to clearance problems, I could not completely remove the drag link from the pitman arm until I removed the box.

Removing the driver's side tire gave me access to the three bolts holding the box to the frame. Two of the bolts came out fine, but the third is behind the sway bar arm and you have to use a wrench. I used a rubber mallet and hit the wrench to break the bolt loose. Due to space, I was only able to turn the wrench a small amount until I got the bolt somewhat loose, then I could use the open end of the wrench. After removing the bolts I pulled the box from the top.

Placing the box on the floor with the pitman arm on its side, I placed one foot on the pitman arm and the other foot on the 14" adjustable wrench to loosened and removed the pitman nut. I found the nut was bigger than 32 mm, but I am not sure of the exact size. Using the pitman arm puller described above, I removed the pitman arm and transfered it to the rebuilt box.

From the top, I set the box on the sway bar, then crawled underneath to move the box around to get the bolts started. As stated above, this is a good point to have help , but I was able to fight it around enough to get a bolt started and from there was able to get all three bolts in. Don't forget to attach the drag link before installing the 2 bolts. This allow you move the box around to get the drag link in place.

From there just install everything in reverse order. I took a large screw driver an tried to spread the clamp on the end of the intermediate shaft, where it attaches to the steering box to help it fit back on the steering box shaft. Not sure if it helped or not, but I got it on. It took me around 2.5 - 3 hours to replace the box and get everything cleaned up. I was lucky, my van only has around 125, 000 miles and everything came loose without a great amount of effort, except the one mounting bolt, which wasn't real bad.
 
#5 ·
Thanks for the addendum. I would edit the first post to point the AWD guys to your post but I guess there is an expiration date to the edit button.
Glad there isn't an expiration date for lurkers because I'm sure your info will save someone else a bit of grief!

:goodpost:
 
#6 ·
I am so glad I found your post. My van is at the garage for the third time because they were not able to "fix" my power steering fluid leak the first two times I paid them to. :screaming: I think my problem was the BOOT is not secured to the top o fthe gear box. Thanks for a great write-up.
 
#7 ·
VABeachSafari said:
I am so glad I found your post. My van is at the garage for the third time because they were not able to "fix" my power steering fluid leak the first two times I paid them to. :screaming: I think my problem was the BOOT is not secured to the top o fthe gear box. Thanks for a great write-up.
Your welcome. The boot would not cause a leak, it's purpose is to keep the seals clean. If that upper seal leaks it will need to be replaced or rebuilt. Sadly I can't see a shop doing this job for less than $600 - 800 depending on whose book they reference.
 
#8 ·
You were right. Then "new" steering gear box had a leaking top seal. I just wish they would have "really" checked it out the second time I returned for service. They put in a brand new steering gear assembly, and now I have no leak, and it works better than the original replacement that made a sucking noise everytime I turned the wheel. Mr. Bill (BRT Auto Repair) is a really nice man, but I think his mechanics aren't giving it their best effort. My Safari is FIXED! :driving:
 
#10 ·
Something of interest to me...what was the reason for replacing the steering gear box in the first place? What were the symptoms? How was it diagnosed as being the problem over other possibilities?
 
#12 ·
Mine wasn't leaking, just loose with too much play. Years back I had a '70 ford econoline / the same issue and I adjusted it, the problem came back a short while later, I adjusted again and much less time passed before it was bad again. Adjustments are a slppery slope to the point of no steering.
 
#13 ·
Thanks so much for posting this W.B.

I feel play in the steering..kind of a clunk back and forth so I suspect the box. Pump sounds kinda whiney so I guess I will have to change that at the same time. Mine is a 95 AWD so a few differences. I noticed mine doesn`t have a boot on the steering shaft. don`t know if it every did, or if it needs one.
 
#14 ·
Your welcome, two things I would suggest, be sure to get an eyeball on it before you start buying parts. Have someone turn the wheel while you look from above and below. Second get a FSM, (factory service manual). Watch ebay, best 40 bux I ever spent on my truck. While I did this with only the Haynes the FSM is so much better I'll never leave home without it! :lol: or should I say it will never leave my home,,,
The FSM will clue you in as to if it had or doesn't have a boot and really with the '95 being a half breed gen one / gen two, I should think it would be invaluable.

Good luck with it and please keep us posted, pics and tips w/ further instruction are always welcomed too! :thumbup:
 
#15 ·
Sure thing WB.
I don`t have a fsm for my van and the haynes is kinda useless as it doen`t cover AWD. I here ya tho cause I once had a 1984? vw synro transporter while in college. Very expensive for both parts and service so spending $150 on a service manual was money well spent. Thankfully, this thing called the internet came along, eh?
I did do what you suggested already and for sure the box is leaking right at the place where the shaft goes in. I am not sure how to be certain the pump needs replacing tho.
 
#16 ·
Just another question, as some basic parts are coming in like new hoses and and the filter that Lumpy suggested quite a few times. What brand was your rebuilds? I was looking at Cardone and Fenco. I found out from the local gm guys (also took a look/ drive and concur , bad steering box) that this part is discontinued for these vans. (I now question this as My van could have either a first gen or second gen steering box. They couldn`t tell me which would be in there. Seems strange that the 2nd gen., 2002 box is discontinued...)
I have also be looking into an upgrade like the AGR stuff.
So suggestions on brand/upgrades??
 
#17 ·
I used the Cardone reman from Rock auto. I was surprised at the core charge, $200, understandable if they are discontinued. 2 years and 25.000 miles later, no problems other than a leak on the low pressure line. I used the old lines and the same spring clamp, just last week I finally put a screw type clamp on. We'll see if I fixed it.
 
#18 ·
How does the boot come off of the steering gearbox? I've got a replacement which shows three tabs which I would assume I would have to rotate the boot into alignment and then it will lift off? I'll be sure to add to this thread once I get it off, but that part seems simple, but I don't want to wreck the boot by forcing something.
 
#19 ·
redfury said:
How does the boot come off of the steering gearbox? I've got a replacement which shows three tabs which I would assume I would have to rotate the boot into alignment and then it will lift off? I'll be sure to add to this thread once I get it off, but that part seems simple, but I don't want to wreck the boot by forcing something.
Well, I did mine in my AWD van. That boot wasn't too bad once I realized that I just had to manhandle the clip and rotated it around and off. I didn't realize that the boot was a two piece unit either, so if I had removed the top first, I might have had a better idea how the box side of it worked.
 
#21 ·
My 2" lifted AWD 2004 continues to make noise...is there an updated write up on an awd steering box change?

- I have changed the fluid )took the lines out of the box and even cranked the engine for a moment so i woudl say i got 75% or more of the old fluid out - it certainly helped with the noise and the steering feel...but i know i'll have to replace the whole thing...

These vans are pretty cramped....looks like i have have to do it from above...
 
#23 ·
X2 on the pump as the culprit. Steering boxes only make noise for

a short time, and usually only when turning.

Uncle Bob
 
#25 ·
Hardest part for me has been getting the steering wheel aligned again. It's not exactly the easiest thing to do...stab that thing with the box installed. I had redone it, only to have it in the exact same position as before, but now I can't get the shaft back off of the steering box to try it again...sigh.
 
#26 ·
This posting send chills up my spine....I HAVE to do all of our automotive repairs....we simply can't afford to pay a shop or independent mechanic, and I grew up watching and learning from Dad. Not sure yet exactly what the source of my problem is because I haven't had time to look into it, but my steering wheel has about 3 inches of free play in both directions before the tires respond to a turn. After reading this post, am hoping it has something to do with a piece OTHER THAN the gear box! lol (nervously laughing)
I'm currently rebuilding my Suburban transmission and have put all Safari tasks aside until that is completed, but already thinking about the road ahead with it. Can anyone possibly put my mind at ease and tell me whether or not the gear box could be the problem?
:poke:
 
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