Rumble vibration at freeway speeds, driveshaft.

[chevymaher]

Sounded like a bad rear end. Vibration and rumble as I gave it gas to hold speed from coasting. Till enough throttle was applied to even it out.
Grab the driveshaft and jerk it side to side right behind the trans and it moves side to side. Mine was moving around a lot.

It was the Extension house bushing. It is a pressed in bushing. There a tool to remove it and it cost a hundred Fifty bucks. Or take it to be pressed in. That's what I been hearing.

Well it really simple. Driveshaft out. 2 nuts and bolts take off the big weight if your van has one. Unplug the Vss sensor or unscrew the cable as the case may be. 4 bolts 3 easy one with a wrench because Vss sensor or speedo drive in the way of a ratchet. Pop it sideways the whole tailshaft comes off. Minimal mess trans fluid wise. A dinner plate would catch it all.

Set the tail piece on the bench wrestle the seal out. Set it upright. I used a impact socket and hammer to drive it out. Just make sure the socket slightly smaller than the hole the bushing in. Make sure to tap new one in so it straight. I used a block of wood to drive it in. Put the seal in and DONE. Put it back together. Really easy no rocket science at all. Took a little wrestling to get the driveshaft back in the new tight bushing but that a good thing Reckon.

There is a seam in the bushing install with that up. Most of the wear happens at the bottom. I am super impressed with the results. 7 bucks for the seal and bushing and a half hours work. Vibration and noise gone.

Easier than taking off the dog house to boot.

First pic wasted bushing.
Second van's belly stripped.
Third socket I used to drive bushing out with. Cut a piece of wood to fit to drive new one back in.

[paintdrying]

Remind me too check my plate if I am invited to dinner at your house.(lol) So a bad seal will do all that? Never would of thought.

[chevymaher]

Remind me too check my plate if I am invited to dinner at your house.(lol) So a bad seal will do all that? Never would of thought.

Not the seal the bushing. The seal has to be replaced to do it.

[Jasen]

OK, send me the other $143 and we'll call it even

[chevymaher]

OK, send me the other $143 and we'll call it even

Would a check or money order be okay sir? I don't want to mess with you after the biker post. You probably need to take out some frustrations.

[Jasen]

You can just Western Union it

[Big_kid]

Thanks for posting this. Since my tranny swap mines been doing the exact same thing- vibration @ around 45MPH if I'm not on it, and even if I am on it above 50 or so. I wasn't sure if it was the bushing or possibly a misalignment due to the replacement trans mount not being the same as the old one. Just my luck, I replaced the output seal when I did the swap too. Oh well. Live & learn the hard way(but I already knew better) when you think you can skate without taking an extra 5 minutes while it's out. Guess I figured since it was the output shaft it would be easy to get to if needed.

Looks like I have a weekend project coming up. Then again, maybe I could just swap extension housings with the old tranny...

['cudapaul]

I use the new one to drive out the old bushing.
Use a block of clean hardwood to protect the new bushing, start out gently, and then drive it in.

[TDMobile]

Use a block of clean hardwood......start out gently, and then drive it in.

that's how she likes it - the astro that is of course

[chevymaher]

Looks like I have a weekend project coming up. Then again, maybe I could just swap extension housings with the old tranny...

For 7 bucks I would just put in a new one. My 90's trans was low milage and its was pretty wasted looking to. I took its off to inspect. I kinda wanting to rebuild it while this one still good. Main thing I was checking was the VSS and case. The 700R4 is identical to my 4l60E in the 94.So as I been reading and hoped.Parts are going to interchange.

[Corsemoto]

Great info.

[chevymaher]

I am not making any wild claims but. The brake sticking issue everybody having. It may not be the brakes.

I used to have them stick at least once a day.For about 20 minutes after it been running for about 6 miles from cold. Then it would stop doing it. Maybe it is a strange co-incidence it stopped when the bushing went in.

I am thinking it was binding on the splines in the yoke, because it was cocked sideways. And when you moved it popped loose making the driveshaft sing.

I will update if it starts doing it again. But for now mine has stopped.

New rear end, new brakes drums and all. It still did it. Now it stopped.
Just something to ponder. Maybe wiggle those driveshafts.

[97cargocrawler]

Question, as I may have to do this VERY soon...

You say minimal mess when you pull that sucker off? I'm curious, if you have a huge secondary external tranny cooler does that make the fluid level rise significantly over the stock config inside the tranny once the engine if off and fluid settles?

I ask because my Monster Tranny is just about a year old and it has been leaking around the output shaft for the past few months, mostly when I'm parked uphill. Lately it has been sitting level and has dripped out perhaps half a quart in the past month and a half just sitting in the driveway, the van hasn't moved an inch.

I'm thinking the fluid level must be as high or higher than the seal once all the fluid drains back in the pan....just pushing constantly against that seal.

[chevymaher]

Question, as I may have to do this VERY soon...

You say minimal mess when you pull that sucker off? I'm curious, if you have a huge secondary external tranny cooler does that make the fluid level rise significantly over the stock config inside the tranny once the engine if off and fluid settles?

I ask because my Monster Tranny is just about a year old and it has been leaking around the output shaft for the past few months, mostly when I'm parked uphill. Lately it has been sitting level and has dripped out perhaps half a quart in the past month and a half just sitting in the driveway, the van hasn't moved an inch.

I'm thinking the fluid level must be as high or higher than the seal once all the fluid drains back in the pan....just pushing constantly against that seal.

No the level inside this part will remain the same. It is gravity drain back into the pan and some just stays in there. But the drain is alot higher than your fluid level will be. Or you would be showing a foot up the stick when it not running checking your trans fluid.

The output shaft leak will disappear once you fix this. I put in 2 new seals and it always leaked anyway. The drive shaft is cocking sideways and pulling to one side of the seal. Once it is fixed it is centered and wont leak. Mine is dry as a bone now. And it leaked forever.

[97cargocrawler]

Hmmm. Explain me this then:

I pulled the drive shaft out a week ago and fluid shot out like a firehose at me until I quickly managed to get the damn thing back in.

Do you need to drain the fluid before doing this?

[Lumpy]

Firehose seems like a lot. Mine will drip a bit when I pull the driveshaft and that's even when I'm parked slightly uphill in my driveway. You've got like a Bukaki tailshaft.


Lump

[97cargocrawler]

No ****!

I have pulled the shaft in the past, prior to installing the cooler and that never happened before.

[chevymaher]

Maybe you do. I can pull my drive shaft nothing comes out. Just keep a big pan under it when you do it. Surely 13 quarts wont defy gravity and come out. When I took mine off I literally use one shop rag to clean up what spilled. You got that tranny overfull maybe?

[97cargocrawler]

Doubtful. I check it religiously. Paranoid as hell since I didn't rebuild it myself.

[chevymaher]

Doubtful. I check it religiously. Paranoid as hell since I didn't rebuild it myself.

Ah I paranoid as all get out to. Even when I do the work. Till it all broke in. Then hammer down.