4L60E Connector

[Munken]

After my "deep puddle" run, I took this connector off and blew it dry. Then I sprayed some oil similar to WD40, and smeared some grease around the edge to prevent water to go in again.
I wonder: Is that good, or should it be "dry" from both water and grease.

(Hasn't got it to run normal yet. And have not tried after the oil / grease treatment).

[Jasen]

Did you pack it with grease or just seal the mating surfaces.

[Munken]

I didn't pack it, just the mating surfaces .......... but maybe little to much... it dosen't looks like the one in the pic.
And as little as possible on the metal pins, just the oil.

[Jasen]

I don't see a problem with it. I sprayed WD40 in most all my elec. plugs and then carefully sealed them with dielectric grease.

[Munken]

I will try it tomorrow. Out of curiosity, I opened the park/neutral safety switch, and it's a "if you open it get broken" type. I'll get a new one tomorrow. The good news, it did not seem to be broken.......before me that is...

[Jasen]

You know what we say in the US, if it ain't broke, don't fix it...


or YOU'LL BRAKE IT!!!!!



Another thing we say is

[Munken]

I know that saying.... and I try to live by it.

This is the most expensive way to learn.......and it worked, I learned.


Also this saying is good: "Cobbler, stick to your last"

[Munken]

Opened the trans today and pulled out the wiring harness and the TCC. Checked all the solenoids, they all "clicked" except for the TCC (I don't know if it should say "click", but it didn't). I decided to buy a new.


But, here in Sweden it's at least 2 weeks waiting and about $300 for a new harness and solenoid.

[Munken]

My friend in LA will buy the harness with TCC tomorrow and send it to me. I think it will be less than $300 and sooner than 2 weeks.

[Jasen]

It's not always what you know, but who you know

[Munken]

Now I have replaced the harness and TCC in the 4L60e. Did a grease - WD40 treatment a la Matrixx, and now it runs almost like new.... Got a P0404 code , so I guess I have to take a look at the EGR.

[Mr_Roboto]

JMO on this, pack it with grease if you can. They make dialectric (sp) for this purpose. If you can't find it get some "bulb grease" and put it in there. If you have grease in the space water can't occupy it!

[Munken]

You learn as long as you live. Today I learned that it may not be the hole in the intake manifold which becomes clogged with carbon, it can be the piston in the EGR valve that gets a carbon coat and get stuck.

[OGMudbone]

the head has a passage for the EGR gasses to flow into the system too, it gets clogged as well. it is why I made chisels and used a small ball peen hammer and beat out of the passenger head for 2 days until it was all clean. this is also why i did a port and polish. all the orifices were clogged or coated in hard thick carbon. and it passed the emmisions test 2 weeks before i tore into it too. hahahaha. thank you for the thread and info on sealing those plugs and the wire looms in there.

[Munken]

Sunday she stalled again, this time halfway to work. I called a friend who is a mechanic at our local GM dealer and told him to bring instruments so we can measure up the van.

He came and started the van at the first attempt
He said: "That was not good, it's hard to find the failure if it works". He put on a fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was good. Suddenly the pressure dropped and the van stalled.

He measured up all the cables from the fuel pump and forward, they was good. Then he removed the pump relay and measured the contact, that was bad, 0 Volt on one of the contacts.

So we did the fastest and cheapest, connected the relay with a working cable.

Now the van runs again.