4L60E TCC solenoid bad?

[jeff's93astro]

i've got 93 astro with a 4L60E van has 229,000 miles not original motor so i'm not sure if its original tranny or not but fluid looks good and has had filter and fluid change and also shifts good well when i bought it torque converter locked and it never slipped but then a couple of days ago i could play with the brake pedal and it would start locking up so i replaced brake switch figured it was trying to bad but it was no better. and my question is. is there a way i can jump it to see if it locks up or see if computer is sending signal or if solenoid is receiving signal. no check engine light and runs fine

[jeff's93astro]

.

[astro355]

i've got 93 astro with a 4L60E van has 229,000 miles not original motor so i'm not sure if its original tranny or not but fluid looks good and has had filter and fluid change and also shifts good well when i bought it torque converter locked and it never slipped but then a couple of days ago i could play with the brake pedal and it would start locking up so i replaced brake switch figured it was trying to bad but it was no better. and my question is. is there a way i can jump it to see if it locks up or see if computer is sending signal or if solenoid is receiving signal. no check engine light and runs fine

Could you elaborate on the 'bolded' text a little, please?

[jeff's93astro]

if you press the brake pedal it'll disengage the TCC so i could tap it a couple of times then put my foot behind it and force it up maybe little over 1/8" and it would lock up 8 times out of 10 and i thought to try that cause my truck did the same thing a while back ago and it ended up being the brake switch and the new brake switch in the van is adjusted correctly

[astro355]

if you press the brake pedal it'll disengage the TCC so i could tap it a couple of times then put my foot behind it and force it up maybe little over 1/8" and it would lock up 8 times out of 10 and i thought to try that cause my truck did the same thing a while back ago and it ended up being the brake switch and the new brake switch in the van is adjusted correctly

I'm not sure there is a problem there. If you tap the brake pedal and then pull it back up, you're not trying to stop the van so what difference would it make it the TCC locks up? I'm assuming that when the TCC is engaged and then you hit the brake pedal with the intention of stopping, the TCC doesn't right to engage itself.

[jeff's93astro]

it'll disengage the solenoid i found that out when i worked at the dealership. but i need to know if theres a way to test or jump something to see if solenoid is bad or not

[astro355]

Test #1 (Regular Method)

Check For 12 Volts To Terminal A At Transmission

1. Raise the vehicle on the lift so the driving wheels are off the ground.
2. Connect the alligator clip of your test light to ground. Unplug the wires at the case and place the tip of your test light on the terminal marked A.
3. Do not depress the brake pedal.
4. Computer controlled vehicles: turn on the ignition and the tester should light.
5. All other vehicles: start the engine and bring to normal operating temperature.
6. Raise RPM to 1500 and the tester should light. If tester lights continue with Regular Method.
7. If the tester does not light go to Test # 2.

Test #1 (Quick Method)

Check For 12 Volts To Terminal A At The ALDL
Note: ALDL quick methods, when given, are a way to perform many of the tests at the Assembly Line Diagnostic Link (ALDL). This will allow you to do most of the electrical checks from the driver's seat and save much valuable diagnostic time.

1. Connect one end of a test light to terminal A at the ALDL.
2. Connect the other end to terminal F at the ALDL.
3. Turn on the ignition and the tester should light. Note: some transmissions, like the 125C must shift to 3rd before the tester will light.
4. If the tester lights, you have 12 volts to terminal A at the transmission. Go to Test # 6.
5. If the tester does not light, then check for 12 volts by the regular method.

Test #2

Checking For 12 Volts Across Fuse

1. Check for 12 volts at both sides of the fuse.
2. Locate the fuse box and the fuse marked "gauges" (most models).
3. Connect the alligator clip of your test light to ground. Turn the ignition on.
4. Place the tip of your test light on one side of the fuse and the tester should light.
5. Place the tip of your test light on the other side of the fuse and the tester should again light.

Test #3

Checking For 12 Volts Across Brake Switch

IMPORTANT: Either of these switches can be used for lock-up. To avoid mis-diagnosis, check them both. If the upper switch with the vacuum hose is used, check the two wires at that switch. On the four wire lower switch, check the two wires farthest from the plunger.

1. Check for 12 volts at both sides of the brake switch. Some GM vehicles have two electric switches at the brake pedal. One switch will have four wires and the other switch will have two wires and a vacuum hose.
2. Connect the alligator clip of your test light to ground.
3. Do not depress the brake pedal.
4. Turn the ignition "on".
5. Push the tip of your tester into one wire and the tester should light.
6. Now test the other wire and again the tester should light.
7. Depress the brake pedal and re-test. Only one wire should now be hot.

Test #4

Adjusting/Replacing the Brake Switch

1. Remove the brake switch from its bracket.
2. Reconnect the wires to the brake switch.
3. Re-test as stated in test # 2, but push and release the plunger with your finger or thumb.
4. If it now passes the test, the brake switch is good, but needs adjusting.
5. If it still doesn't pass, replace the brake switch.

Test #5

Checking Wires For Shorts and Opens
IMPORTANT: Make sure the ignition switch is "off" for the following tests.

Shorts:

1. Set your ohmmeter to ohms times one (Rx1).
2. Connect one lead of your ohmmeter to one end of the suspect wire.
3. Connect the other lead of your ohmmeter to a good ground.
4. If the meter reads ANYTHING other than infinity, you have a short to ground in that wire.

Opens:

1. If a suspect wire has no voltage through it, and its connection at both ends is good, and it's not shorted to ground, the wire has an open in it.
2. Replace the wire.

http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troubleshooting/a/aa061701a_2.htm

[jeff's93astro]

ok got the problem solved and it just happend to be a pain in the a$$ first off i started by disconnecting the electrical plug on the side of the tranny checking to see if i had a good clean connection and when i pulled it loose it must of came apart or something but the wires came up with it and a gush of fluid also. look at the first pic you can see the grey plastic connector that sticks out of the tranny is busted

and this one is out of my white seller van and its in a lot better shape than mine got it swapped over my lock up still didn't work right so then i went to check switches at brake pedal i skipped checking brake light switch it was brand new but i checked the cruise control switch beside it and it didn't have power going through so i took it off popped open the cap on the bottom side of it used sandpaper on the blackened contacts to clean them up put it back and adjusted it and now it works great. thanks astro355 for the help.

[astro355]

Yeah, no problem. That's what we are here for.