Chevy Astro and GMC Safari Forum banner

4L60E transmission rebuild DIY (on a budget)

38K views 44 replies 19 participants last post by  VANDAYUM 
#1 ·
So I hope some of you guys would like to see something like this (not sure if there is already a DIY on the site), we all have the 4l60e (or the 4l60) and it can be an expensive repair when they go out. A little backround, I got my van for free with a bad tranny. No 3rd or 4th, but it had 1st, 2nd, and reverse. I figured tranny is broken so if I can't fix it then whatever, at least I tried. I am not a trans expert by any means, just a shadetree mechanic with a few years experience, with that said I've done 2 4l60e and a 4l80e all successfully and 2 have been on the road for about a year now. The pics I will use are from my most recent rebuild that I completed last week. Took a few days afterwork to reassemble, I was able to build this 2nd one alot faster than my first one. I only used basic tools to do the job.....

I will try and include as much info as I can, so I will separate the different steps into posts. As with anything get the manual and I used these vids as reference, watch them all the way through first.

teardown vid

rebuild vid


Things you should always get for a rebuild...new heat treated sunshell, Master rebuild kit (mine had the upgraded 9clutch 3-4 frictions), and a new torque converter. There might be other parts you find that need replacing when you tear down too. Here goes....

Pic of the tools I used and the tranny lubes I used (I ordered the trans lubes through o'reillys) missing are a few misc sockets and you need a torx 50 (its actually a torx+50 but I didn't use one of those) with little extension for to remove the bell housing
IMG_1043.JPG


the manual
IMG_1044.JPG


My shadetree spring compressor to remove the drum pistons
IMG_1041.JPG

IMG_0208.JPG


I was fortunate enough to use Copperfiremist's parts cleaner so I did the teardown there and brought everything home for the rebuild
IMG_0932.JPG

IMG_1039.jpg
 
See less See more
2 6
#2 ·
Now everything is apart and cleaned, You basically start putting the sub assemblies together one at a time and then they will go into the case. Like it says in the title, this is a cheap budget rebuild for a buddy just to get him back on the road so some corners were cut. But on my personal trans I actually did take the extra time to replace ALL seals, on this one most seals looked good and the frictions still looked good but it had a broken sunshell. I used new frictions, band, sunshell and replaced a worn reaction carrier assembly. I replaced some seals but not all. The bearings looked good so I left them.

So first I put the Reverse input drum assembly back together
IMG_1045.JPG

Order of operations goes like this
I didn't remove the reverse input pistion (but you can, and replace seals on the piston) then the stack up..
-Wavy plate, cone side up
-steel
-friction
-steel
-friction
-steel
-friction
-steel
-friction
-pressure plate
-snap ring
IMG_1046.JPG

Remember to check for bushing wear and check the clearances. I think stock recommends .040-.076and mine ended up being .056 between the pressure plate and snap ring & I used feeler guages to do this. Also remember to take some emry cloth or something and lightly scuff the outside of the drum to remove any old glazing and it will help the new band grab better.

Next was the Input drum assembly, again I left the 3rd/4th clutch apply piston and the overrun clutch piston in, and the teflon oil seal rings looked in good shape. You should replace all that stuff but I didn't- lets see if in bites me in the ***.
First I replaced the little orange seal and remember the bearing that sits on the orange washer.

(sorry forgot to take pic of overrun and forwardsclutches but they go in in that order)
the stack goes..
-overrun steel
-friction
-overrun steel
-friction
-overrun pressureplate
-forward wavy plate- when you install all these steels make sure the angled tabs are in the gaps and teeth are in the slots
-forward steel, then you put in the forward sprag assembly to help with lining up the set of 5 forward clutch frictions
-friction
-steel
-friction
-steel
-friction
-steel
-friction
-steel
-friction
-pressure plate, make sure your stack sits just below the snap ring groove
-snap ring- and we are halfway done with this drum and about to iinstall the upgraded 3-4 clutch pack. Stock is 6 frictions and this one is 9 frictions and comes with new thinner steels
IMG_1047.JPG
 
#3 ·
Input drum assembly is half way done, in the above pic i put the frictions in order and you can see the input sun gear installed (the small gear sitting in the middle of the drum) on some sprag assemblies the sun gear is removable and on some it is held fast by a dust cover and not removable. You can install your now if it was the removable kind.

always presoak all of your frictions for at least 15 mins or so, this will prevent glazing your frictions on initial load test. Lol should have said that earlier..
IMG_1048.JPG


The 3-4 clutch upgrade requires a little bit of trial and error to get the clearances right. The upgrade comes with 9 frictions, 9 steels, a thinner pressure plate, and a new thinner snap ring. Ideally you would just swap the stock 6 steels and use the new 9 steels that come in the kit but that doesn't always work, you have to stack and measure to check clearances and then use a combo of thin and stock thick steels and also try between the thick and thin snaprings to get the clearance where you want it. I've read suggested clearance is between .025-.040 for tight clean shifts. My stack up ended up being .034. I also reinstalled the little booster springs, there are 5 total. Ive heard conflicting info on these so we'll see how things work out. ATSG says remove them other builders say install them. :shrug:

the 3-4 clutch stack starts like this
-backing plate (the one with the little legs on it, facing down and has to click onto the legs of the 3-4 clutch ring)
-friction
-steel
-friction
-steel
-friction
and so on, alternating and ending on a friction
-top pressure apply plate
-snap ring, my notes say I used the thin apply plate and thin snapring but I swear I swapped in one factory thick friction to get my clearance
IMG_1049.JPG


Then on the back of the drum install the washer then the bearing with black part facing up, use heavy tack lube to hold these in place
IMG_1054.JPG
 
#4 ·
I didn't do any of the teflon seals on this trans because they looked ok and i didn't have any. But if you want to use new ones you can make a sturdy plastic sleeve out of a water bottle or something and use hose clamps to tighten down and resize. I've done this method before and it works but I just can't find any of my pics.

Now that the two main drums are put together we can check out our pump, don't forget to check you bushings for wear and also in the left corner you can see the pump screen. Pull that out and make sure its clean.
IMG_1053.JPG

the rebuild kits come with new pump springs and stuff but I didn't have those so on to the veins and pump rotor.
There are two expander rings, a pump rotor, 13 veins, and a yellow plastic pump guide.
-Install one expander ring then rotor and pump guide facing down
IMG_1055.JPG

Then install all of the veins and the top expander ring and were ready for pump alignment, if you dont align it might never go into the case and you'll fuss with it for hours. I made a pump alignment tool out of two big hose clamps.
IMG_1056.JPG

Once aligned tighten down pump bolts to 18ftlbs
IMG_1060.JPG
 
#5 ·
So both drums are done and the pump is done too, almost ready for things to go back in the case.
Now to mate the two drums together like this..
IMG_1057.JPG

basically just set the drum on and sort of spin the drum back and forth, until all of the frictions engage. It can be sort of a bitch but it should start to engage and then fall into place. You know you've gone all the way down when the input drum sits just above level with the 3rd teflon ring from the top.

Now we move to the case, I did mine at home on one of those 6ft fold out tables so I had to be creative. Most of the case can be put together laying on its side but not the most efficient or comfortable. Ideally you want the have it facing up, I just balanced on some wood and a chair
IMG_0217.JPG

In this pic you see the parts in order that they go back in the case. You can see the output shaft, mine was a awd but if you want to convert to Rwd you can just swap in the longer 2wd output shaft, source a tail housing and your good.
IMG_1061.jpg


In the bottom of the case goes the lo/reverse clutch piston and spring. Held by a snap ring I already have that installed.
Next in order
-ring gear w/bearing
IMG_1058.JPG

-rear planet assembly w/bearing. to check your planet hold it and giggle the gears from side to side, they should have a small amount of play but too loose and you should replace. This is one of the planets you can upgrade to a 5 gear planet like a 4l65e to sturdy things up, there is also a front planet that you can upgrade.
IMG_1059.JPG


Here is the bottom case parts in order
-ring gear w/bearing
-rear planet w/bearing
Then install the lo/reverse clutches and steels like this, make sure the notched tooth on the steel lines up to the band pin in the case.
-wavy plate
-steel
-friction
-steel and so on, ending on a friction. There are 5 steels and 5 frictions.
-install anticlunk spring in the case, it sort of rests in the gap at about 11o'clock if your standing opposite the VB side.
-install center support, there is one longer space on the center support and that aligns up in the case with the space at about9o'clock if your standing in same position as above. It might also have to be tapped in because you have to get passed the anti clunk spring. Tap it in and install snapring but watch were it goes and make sure its not pressing against the anti clunk spring.
IMG_1062.JPG
 
#6 ·
Now that I'm writing this step I release I forgot to get pics of a few parts being installed, but they go in this order and they are all easy to put in...
-the reaction sun gear (the angle cut side goes down),
-black plastic washer that comes with the new sunshell has 4 tabs and the face down.
-Next goes the sunshell and a bronze 4 tab washer goes face down on top of the sunshell
-forward planet ring gear with bearing between it and the forward planet
-forward planet with bearing

Next was for me really tricky for some reason, after all the above stuff is installed the rear outputshaft is installed from the back of the case and there is a small snap ring that holds it in front. get that snap ring clicked in and your good to go.

Last few things to go in are the drum assembly, band, and pump.
To install the drums grab a rag and lift them in and you wiggle/rotate the drum around, the goal is to get the frictions to line up with the ring gear below. Its tricky but you'll know when the top of the drums fall below the ledge that the pump sits on. Sorry no pics of the band install but its fairly straight forward, it goes on last, right before you put on the pump. The drum should be able to move around a little while in the case, so press towards the top end of the case about 1o'clock position and latch the band in its groove, then take a screwdriver to help you latch the band on the band anchor.
IMG_1063.JPG

Last is the pump, grease up the walls of the case and install the pump gasket then tap the pump in.
IMG_1077.JPG
 
#7 ·
From the above post, torque the pump to case bolts to 18ftlbs. Those bolts usually have a rubber o'rings, the master rebuild kits come with new o'rings so make sure you put them on.

So now everything should be in the case and we can move on to the valve body. We're getting close to done but there are some things to pay attention to for the valve body install. There are a few different types of bolts and you have to use them in the right places.

Its up to you if you want to go through and pull out/clean all of the valves in the valve body, I pulled some of the easy ones, but at the very least, press on the valves to make sure they aren't stuck in the case and that the springs aren't worn out. First you can reinstall all of your solenoids (installed in below pic)
IMG_1079.JPG

Then install the forward accumulator, the low overrun valve goes in then the little green spring on top
IMG_1080.JPG

Then install the pin and the piston goes in this way with the spring next, press and hold the cover on and use 3 small 8mm bolts to tighten down to 8ftlbs
IMG_1081.JPG

IMG_1082.JPG
 
#8 ·
Next is check balls, I think there are 8 total, 1 in the case and 7 in the valvebody, I used some light tack to hold them inplace..
IMG_1083.JPG

One goes in the case next to the 1-2 and 3-4- accumulator housing, there are actually 10 check balls total but 2 stay trapped in the case.
IMG_1084.JPG


Then goes the accumulators and the manual valve for the shifter
IMG_1085.JPG

3-4 accumulator goes in like this
IMG_1087.JPG

1-2 piston goes in the housing like this with the spring inside
IMG_1086.JPG


About ready to install the valve body, make sure all of your solenoids are installed and start to install the wiring harness. Start by clipping in the connector into the case and bolting down the converter clutch solenoid with 2 8mm bolts
IMG_1088.JPG

Next is the case gasket, it will be labeled with a C (CA on 2000 and up), then the valve body spacer plate, then the valve body gasket labeled with a V. Then install the accumulator housing and small spacer support plate. 2 short and 1 long 10mm for the accumulator housing and 3 short 8mm bolts for the spacer plate
IMG_1089.JPG
 
#9 ·
Final stretch, the valve body install... :thumbup: Note to pay attention to my pics on where the bolt locations are, it is very important. If you install a long bolt where it shouldn't go, things many not work in your favor.

First step is begin to install the valve body but you have to latch in the manual valve to the shifter at the same time. Its a little tricky but its not too bad. Latch it in and set the VB on the case.
IMG_1090.JPG

Here are the locations for the 8mm bolts, the 3 sort of grouped towards the right are long 8mm and the 2 on the left are short 8mm. The 2 short ones help hold in the pressure control switch, I took the pic with out it so you can see the bolt lengths better
IMG_1091.JPG

Here are the 10mm bolt locations, you can see the 3 longer ones at the top which also hold in the pressure switch. The others are the same size except for the two shorter 10mm towards the left near the edge of the VB.

IMG_1092.JPG

With the pressure switch installed and all the bolts in the right places, start in the center and go in a spiral, hand tighten and then torq to 8ftlbs. Finish connecting the wiring harness, Add the filter and voila.
IMG_1094.JPG

Pan gasket and bolts x16 torq to 9ftlbs then reinstall the bell housing and tail housing, all thats left is the servo on the outside of the case (you can see it in the pic but I forgot to take a pic up close and the shift control also on the outside of the case. The master rebuild kit also comes with new tranny cooler clips.
IMG_1095.JPG

IMG_0230.JPG


A few things to note, some newer models came with a slightly deeper pan and require a slightly taller filter. (about 1/2 inch difference so dont mix them up. Also 2000 and up came with a longer front stator, bell housing, and output shaft. All these parts are interchangable but gotta know the year of the tranny and engine.The video helped me figure out some subtle differences between 4l60e years


Good luck :thumbup: and feel free to ask me some questions if you need, this is far from a fully comprehensive guide but it will be a good reference and give you an idea of how to do it.
 
#12 ·
WoodButcher said:
Nice dkG.
This one outa be stickyed.
:thumbup: Thanks WoodButcher, I'll try and keep it updated when I come across questions and more helpful pics to add.
AstroWill said:
Good reference, thanks for posting! I haven't come across a deep pan on an Astro yet, have always been the shallow pan.
The deep pans aren't really too much bigger its like a little step and I think they came on 98and up? Holds about a quart or two more fluid. This trans actually had a deep pan to start but I swapped it with Copperfiremist regular pan. He wanted the deep pan for the big LS build :D I'll try and get a pic
 
#13 ·
dkGarnet96 said:
WoodButcher said:
Nice dkG.
This one outa be stickyed.
:thumbup: Thanks WoodButcher, I'll try and keep it updated when I come across questions and more helpful pics to add.
Don't thank me, :?
I didn't do it, :cry:
it wasn't me, :|
I'm innocent! :angelic-innocent:

but Chevy did! :dance:
:thumbup:
 
#14 ·
AstroWill said:
Good reference, thanks for posting! I haven't come across a deep pan on an Astro yet, have always been the shallow pan.
My '00 came with a deep pan. None of my others have the deep pan, neither '02 nor the '99.
 
#16 ·
Not sure why or when the deep pan was issued. Maybe originally it came on the v8? Maybe just to hold more oil, and help keep the tranny temps down. The 3-4 clutches are nortorious for burning up and seems like the biggest issue with the 4L60e.
image.jpeg

Both of these sets came from the same unit. They are supposed to be the same color. These were so worn they also ruined the steels.
 
#17 ·
Very nice work/write up. I am also in the middle of doing one of these. A couple of questions. Did you flush the lines and cooler at the radiator? Was if clean enough, when you tore it down, that you used the same TC? A ballpark figure for parts used please. Mine is a 99 2WD and has the deep pan. So far coming apart with very little metal found in the pan and elsewhere. Sorry for the long post, thanks in advance.
 
#18 ·
Toskavat, yes, and I forgot to include these in my wirte up, I'll have to edit and add this in. Yes, always clean your tranny cooler, its easy you just get a few cans of the trans cleaner and blow it out both directions for best results. And Yes I used a new TC in my van with the new trans, I guess you can reuse your TC but they are made with similar friction material as the frictions so they do collect crap in them and wear out. I would recommend a new one.
Parts cost-
Master rebuild kit (mine was from transmissionexchange and they are very helpful) $200.00
http://www.onlinetransmissionparts.com/ ... 00e-ut.htm
comes with almost everything exept a sun shell which you can order form them too. $50.00
http://www.onlinetransmissionparts.com/ ... 77749m.htm

And then just source a TC and there you go
 
#21 ·
Don't know if DKG is still monitoring this thread, it was almost two years ago he wrote it.

Great job DKGarnet.

I am not rebuilding...yet...but I have a question regarding the tail/output shaft of the tranny that goes through the extension housing and connects to the driveshaft. In another post I mentioned that the tail shaft squeaks when I turn it in one direction when the van (2001 Safari cargovan RWD) is in neutral. Also, there is close to a 1/4" movement at the end of the shaft with the extension housing removed.

I don't see any way of removing the output shaft for inspection without removing the tranny and tearing it down. Thought maybe since you've torn one apart that you might be able to shed some light on the innards.

I am curious as to whether you'd know what might be squeaking and whether the movement is excessive. The squeak comes from deeper in the tranny and when I move the driveshaft end of the output shaft the bearing/bushing/seal where the shaft enters the tranny housing moves noticeably.

I'm concerned because I get a repetitive turning noise that I first associated with the rear end. The gear teeth in the rear end look good, the clearances are OK, the teeth mesh fine, and I replaced the pinion and carrier bearing a couple of years ago.

Is there anything in the tranny that could cause such a low, almost growling noise that repeats every rev? I replaced the bushing and seal on the driveshaft end of the extension housing.
 
#23 ·
^^ thanks guys, there were a few pics I forgot to get when doing my rebuild but I have them now. When I get some time I'm going to see if the mods will let me edit this write up and add those pics, plus include a little more info :thumbup:
 
#24 ·
I rebuilt my 4l60 and used a ton of help from dkGarnet96 although it took me forever to do mine due to health issues. Also I did multiple upgrades while rebuilding such as shift kit more steels and clutches and corvette servo as well as a improved pump. Thanks again for putting up with all my pm's I am sure I got on your nerves. lol markmitch.

PS my trans shifts so good now its almost scary when you put the pedal to the floor and it shifts it actually squacks the tires at 35 mph!
 
#26 ·
dkGarnet96 said:
^^ thanks guys, there were a few pics I forgot to get when doing my rebuild but I have them now. When I get some time I'm going to see if the mods will let me edit this write up and add those pics, plus include a little more info :thumbup:
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=124473
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top