95 Astro “NO Start” at purchase turned nightmare

[Beyond Hope]

Since buying this van it has been an electrical nightmare. No SES light coming on making it impossible for finding a code.Checked and replaced all bulbs within dash. Had an aftermarket security system that someone butchered into the harness, found manual for unit and my buddy did some reverse engineering to remove it from the harness. Narrowed down that possibility for “No Start”! Have spark with new cap, rotor, and wires, ignition Module, oddly the spark is yellowish.

First assumption was fuel pump it was only providing 8.5 volts at orange wire connection in wire harness when key turned on by a helper. We did have 65 psi initially when jumper wire to 12 volts in fuse block, but after continuous testing probably burnt the pump out, it was only putting out@ 35-40 psi at pressure gauge. Checked wire harness for continuity all is fine. Checked and replaced Fuel Pump Relay. Went into tank pulled pump for the third time to check for breaks in wires to sending unit, all are like new. Replaced pump due to low pressure. Still have 8.5 volts on orange fuel pump wire and 35-40 psi when key turns On.

When buddy was troubleshooting fuse block to dash instrumentation wire harness he found AC/Heater circuit was a dead short. My recent discovery of a poorly repaired fusible link circuit showed evidence of a melted connector behind Battery below rear of fuse block. Hopefully this was caused by AC/heater circuit mentioned. Didn't take the time to follow the wires but the fuse link circuit diagram does include that circuit from one fuse link line being used.

So all this being mentioned and virtually every wire in obvious circuits that would cause a "No Start" reviewed, we decided to try the ECM from another wreck assuring the part numbers matched of course with results of nothing changed. Still have NO Start, low volts and pressure from new pump, with all instrument bulbs lighting up “Except the Service Engine Soon light”.
Heater blower, all headlights, tail and brake lights all work, but it just won’t start!
Really took a gamble buying this van at an auction for $450 bucks but it has low miles at 205k, pretty sweet shape inside and out with every part on drive train visually looking tight, plus they did drive it into the yard with a jumper wire from the fuel pump to the fuse block to get it running but the pump ran continuously killing it.

Sure would be great if someone could maybe point out a few more trouble shooting tech support idea’s for this before I start thinking of parting out to my older faithful 1990 Safari AWD. Anyone know how compatible these 2 models are for swapping from 95 over to a 90? Kinda going backwards but the 90 is pushing 450K with a fresh tight motor, it’s a “has been AWD from buggered viscous clutch taking out front differential”. Running for 30k on stub axles eventually wears out the wheel hub bearings. LOL!

[Matrixx]

Hi Beyond Hope

Well you have narrowed it down to circuit anyways (fuel pump). But I'm baffled at the color of wire your testing for the fuel though. It should be gray in color. their is (I believe a purple wire) in the same harness that supplies power to the sending unit which is around 6 volts.

Check the ground wire running off from the harness just before the fuel tank underneath. It bolts up to the frame rail at that point. Actually, check "all" ground points for a good connection. Hope something here helps. Please keep us updated, thanks.

[gwd]

This is probably not your problem but on my previous 1993 model I had a trouble that van just electrically died while driving. It would crank but not start.
It took a while but I finally found that the connection on the fire wall, in front right hand side above the battery, with the fusible links did not pass electricity any more. To solve the problem I jumped one of the two remaining connections to ( from the air conditioner pin/wire ) to the run/ignition/dash line. I cut into the insulation of one and joined it with the other line like a bridge. I was then able to run the van till I got ride of it.

[rev_les]

As Matrix stated, check ALL the grounds, and don't miss the one to the thermostat housing bolt. I'd suggest cutting the 2 wires, soldering some extensions to them, heat shrink the connection, and route them up to the chassis ground up front, rather than unbolting the thermostat,unless you're changing it anyway. ( it's easiest to just remove the airbox for this)

[Beyond Hope]

This is probably not your problem but on my previous 1993 model I had a trouble that van just electrically died while driving. It would crank but not start.
It took a while but I finally found that the connection on the fire wall, in front right hand side above the battery, with the fusible links did not pass electricity any more. To solve the problem I jumped one of the two remaining connections to ( from the air conditioner pin/wire ) to the run/ignition/dash line. I cut into the insulation of one and joined it with the other line like a bridge. I was then able to run the van till I got ride of it.

Thanks for the feedback all! Yes gwd this was one already discovered, guess you missed this quote.
"My recent discovery of a poorly repaired fusible link circuit showed evidence of a melted connector behind Battery below rear of fuse block.".
Other than that will check all my grounds as suggested. Oh yes the mention of orange wiring from fuel pump was confused with the relay. Yes it is a gray wire with 8.5 volts. LOL! Been pulling my wire so much got me all mixed up. Other than that will have some time next few days for round 100 at troubleshooting. Will keep ya all posted.

[rev_les]

Good Luck with it, I know the feeling. My '95 gave me fits ( most of it was a previous owner TRYING to figure out the real problem and making things worse, is my guess).