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Condenser to accumulator nut

1K views 8 replies 4 participants last post by  Leeann_93 
#1 ·
I think I'm using the right terms

The accumulator is the large aluminum container with hoses going in and out along with the shrader valve

Condenser is the unit like a radiator in the housing on the front right

The fitting on the condenser seems fused to the tube. In order to remove the accumulator I cut it off close to the container with my recip saw. The nut side unthreaded easily. I still can't turn the end that's on the condenser tube.

How do I loosen this fitting so that I can reassemble the accumulator?

I e thought about using a propane soldering torch to warm the fitting. But I not until I hear back from someone who has gone before me
 
#2 ·
Welllll...I think i just made this job worse!

When i was walking in from the garage I had a bit clearer mind and realized that I might have wwanted the accumulator in place so that I could use two wrenches to work one side of the fitting against the other.

Now that I;ve had time to do a more extensive search I think that I might have bitten off a condenser replacemnt DANG!

I cam across a suggestion that recommended wrapping string around the fitting to act as a wick and dripping on some vinegar. Sure doesn't seem like it would make things worse!
 
#3 ·
PB Blaster and soak it. The aluminum did its version of rusting and fused together. Believe it or not tighten it a little first. Break it loose. Soon as you feel it give at all then carefully loosen. Brass wire brush it with light oil to get the rust which looks like corrosion on a battery off the threads.

Aluminum does rust. It just looks like a white powder. Oxidizes its what it is called. But then again that is the actual term when metal rust to. Same process different metal and look when it happens.

I found a set of large adjustable wrenches is better than a wrench. The metal is soft and will strip easily. A adjustable wrench used in the correct direction actually increases the clamping/gripping force on the surface as pressure is applied to it. Helps keep from rounding the edges. Bigger the wrench the easier to control. And more surface area on the part your cranking on.

And yes you shot yourself in the foot cutting it apart before taking it apart. Nothing to stabilize it as your applying superhuman force on it.
 
#4 ·
chevymaher said:
I found a set of large adjustable wrenches is better than a wrench.
Agreed. That's what I use.
But if you REALLY need to get a "bite" on it... a pipe wrench will also do the trick!
Yes, work one wrench against the other. Works every time.
+1 on the PB Blaster as well.... forget the "home remedies"
 
#6 ·
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Ahhhhh!

Success!

A couple of days to let PB Blaster work. I slipped a large easy out into the tube and set it in the tube

Then some heat from my propane torch. Get a firm grip with the wrenches...and the nut moved with a little screech. I knew it was mine then

The nut slid back revealing the dust of oxidation

While it cooled I changed out the filter tube. The screen was blackened but I didn't see any chunks. I took it to the workbench and laid it on a clean rag. A spray off brake cleaner didn't leave any residue on the rag. Simple to install the new filter and button that.

Next a buffing of the tube with some emery cloth. After the tube was clean I spun the nut on the tube to scour out the oxidation.

download/file.php?mode=view&id=132745

A question???

I'm thinking that a very light coat of copper antiseaze grease outboard of the flare ridge under the nut might reduce oxidation. Yes or no?!
 
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