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2002 chevy express 5.7L vortec, L31 swap help

121K views 698 replies 41 participants last post by  Rinny 
#1 ·
I was wondering if you guys could help me out with my 2002 L31 swap out of a chevy express
It has 100,000 miles on it.
I am putting it in a 2003 awd astro van 2" lift, that I use for surf fishing up here in rhode island (putting that motor in is quite a feat in itself for me, but within my capabilities!!)
I want to do the smart things before I install it,I am going to go with electric fans, http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHEVY-ASTRO-SAF ... 5w&vxp=mtr
thinking about an EFI intake upgrade
Radiator http://www.jegs.com/i/Champion-Cooling- ... 6/10002/-1
oil cooler not sourced yet
can the fuel injection be improved upon, I would like to keep it.. Not racing it just want responsive driving on the high way and sand.
any input is welcome.
I don't mind spending some money but don't want to do things that are not nesc for my application
cold air intake also?
water pump
timing chain
oil pump?
Cam ( mild and which one?)
what head work is required on the vortec heads if I do a cam?
valve covers?
I have the motor Mounts and I have cast iron exhaust manifolds that work for this application, courtesy of Captin Crunch
Should I put new pistons in and should I do any head work on the vortec heads if I leave the cam that is in it now?
crank polish and bearings?
Hone cylinders or bore 30 over? (is that a good number to bore over?)
I am going to have the machine work done and probably lower end, pistons, heads, EFI intake assembled by the same shop if I go that far into it.
I can wrench but have limited abilities.
Thanks
 
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#102 ·
Moved the ball joints today on the new Moog upper control arms. Milled off the top of the rivets ball joint came out of the arm and I was able to punch the rivets out of the ball joint seat!! Easy peasz!! :rockon:
 

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#103 ·
Had to degrease it before the zinc oxide. Good thing the wife was working today, lol
 

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#104 ·
Was going to paint them but they came out so nice gunna clear them.
 
#108 ·
Inner rockers pretty much done. Few spots to touch up. Both read inner lower fender corners in the front done, had to be fabricated.
 

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#110 ·
So how did you clean the trans? Sandblast? wire wheels? a combination of both?
I wanted to clear only at first but something told me I wanted color. I went with the red anodized look because of the transparency, I wanted anyone that looked to see it wasn't just paint.

A lot of work on those rockers. When the metal is done that will be a perfect place for the internal frame coating.

I see more drips and polka dots in your future.
:poke:

:rockon:
 
#111 ·
WoodButcher said:
So how did you clean the trans? Sandblast? wire wheels? a combination of both?
I wanted to clear only at first but something told me I wanted color. I went with the red anodized look because of the transparency, I wanted anyone that looked to see it wasn't just paint.

A lot of work on those rockers. When the metal is done that will be a perfect place for the internal frame coating.

I see more drips and polka dots in your future.
:poke:

:rockon:
Fine wire cup brushes from ACE Hardware and a 3/4" fine wire brush. Driven by a straight air gun. You will need the 2 3/4", 1 3/4" and the 3/4" ,several of each. They conform to what you are brushing with a decent amount of pressure, (from you, not as in air pressure which I ran about 120 psi).

Rockers are a huge PITA but it will be solid when I am done. Totally unexpected time and $$ but that's the way it goes sometimes.
 
#112 ·
I am going to get the inside of the rockers painted up pretty good before he welds the outters in place, then I will get the 360 wand in there to give them a good final coat. There will be no holes to drip out of, just the access holes with the plastic pucks, everything else is getting welded shut!! Everything under the van is down to bare metal to just past the trans tail. The rockers are bare metal up to the floor from front to back. Everything else will get sand blasted once I can get the van back on my lift. Just going to take my time and do it in sections that I can complete in one day. Drop the muffler and the fuel tank and get that buttoned up tight, another day drop the rear by unbolting the hangers and shackles and button that up, (that might take 2 or 3 days cause I will do the rear and springs and all the hardware also.) Going to be so much easier sand blasting it standing up, it will be like I am in heaven!!
 
#114 ·
Thanks!!
 
#115 ·
So 5 weeks ago I said to a buddy of mine why don't you come over and help me do some assembly. 5 &^%$#@# weeks ago. All I have been doing for 5 weeks is prepping, grinding , wire brushing, sand blasting, degreasing, zinc oxide prep, ect, ect, ect, and painting, stuff that isn't getting moisture cure is getting 3 coats of primer and 3 coats of finish. Down to the last 4 pcs, lower control arms with that cheap *** factory paint,( that had to go) Tranny mount same paint, If you get a front stabilizer bar from rock auto leave the paint it is like iron ( UM found out the hard way and once I started I had to strip it all with a 40 grit flap disc and touch it up in the cabinet, 80 grit in the sand blaster only took off the top coat!!!!), if its chipped just touch it up. So finally 2 coats left on 4 pcs and I can assemble the subframe. :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:
 
#117 ·
WoodButcher said:
If you weld up the drain holes you'll trap the water in. Condensation, splashing from the back of the filler neck, a couple other places too. If you do get the biggies sealed up you still have the first you cant get away from, condensation.
Good point, new rockers have no holes, what do you recommend?
fuel filler cavity has drain holes into the rocker? it is above the top of the rocker, the bottom of it is even with the floor I am 99% sure.
 
#118 ·
Rinny said:
WoodButcher said:
So how did you clean the trans? Sandblast? wire wheels? a combination of both?
I wanted to clear only at first but something told me I wanted color. I went with the red anodized look because of the transparency, I wanted anyone that looked to see it wasn't just paint.

A lot of work on those rockers. When the metal is done that will be a perfect place for the internal frame coating.

I see more drips and polka dots in your future.
:poke:

:rockon:
Fine wire cup brushes from ACE Hardware and a 3/4" fine wire brush. Driven by a straight air gun. You will need the 2 3/4", 1 3/4" and the 3/4" ,several of each. They conform to what you are brushing with a decent amount of pressure, (from you, not as in air pressure which I ran about 120 psi).

Rockers are a huge PITA but it will be solid when I am done. Totally unexpected time and $$ but that's the way it goes sometimes.
The 2 3/4" fine cup brush works the best, just cant get into every place with it.
 
#119 ·
Rinny said:
Good point, new rockers have no holes, what do you recommend?
fuel filler cavity has drain holes into the rocker? it is above the top of the rocker, the bottom of it is even with the floor I am 99% sure.
Could be, been awhile since I looked at my '97 but IIRC the floor is notched around on the '93.

I'd drill holes at the lowest bend of the rockers, my '93 that point is just outboard and a little lower than the seam. Drill a 3/4' or 1" hole in the rear wheel wells so they can be cleaned / hosed out and cover with a plastic plug.

I've got to clean mine this year. I drove it in the slop a few times this winter and even if the snow is gone that freaking salt is still there.
 
#120 ·
WoodButcher said:
Rinny said:
Good point, new rockers have no holes, what do you recommend?
fuel filler cavity has drain holes into the rocker? it is above the top of the rocker, the bottom of it is even with the floor I am 99% sure.
Could be, been awhile since I looked at my '97 but IIRC the floor is notched around on the '93.

I'd drill holes at the lowest bend of the rockers, my '93 that point is just outboard and a little lower than the seam. Drill a 3/4' or 1" hole in the rear wheel wells so they can be cleaned / hosed out and cover with a plastic plug.

I've got to clean mine this year. I drove it in the slop a few times this winter and even if the snow is gone that freaking salt is still there.
I believe the pucks are already there, didn't have to go up that far, thank God!! So just some weep holes prob about 4 @3/8" along the bottom of the rockers. Never thought about rinsing them out :rockon:
 
#122 ·
So started the sub frame assembly tonight. Lower control arms. Drivers side went in no problem. Passenger side was a different story, ( I have heard about people having problems getting new moog lower control arms to go into place) Had to grind the steel insets in the bushings down on the far front and the far rear to get the arm in, took a heavy 1/16" off each side and it went in with a little persuasion. Rather disappointed in the quality control from moog!!! Its done and I will install the torsion bars next, then do the uppers tomorrow along with the front diff, then knuckles at the same time the 1/2 shafts of course perhaps a little more if it all goes well.
 
#123 ·
Guess it didn't post. Here we go.
 

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#124 ·
upper balljoints are just snugged to the control arm for now
 
#125 ·
It's starting to look like something.
 

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