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2002 chevy express 5.7L vortec, L31 swap help

121K views 698 replies 41 participants last post by  Rinny 
#1 ·
I was wondering if you guys could help me out with my 2002 L31 swap out of a chevy express
It has 100,000 miles on it.
I am putting it in a 2003 awd astro van 2" lift, that I use for surf fishing up here in rhode island (putting that motor in is quite a feat in itself for me, but within my capabilities!!)
I want to do the smart things before I install it,I am going to go with electric fans, http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHEVY-ASTRO-SAF ... 5w&vxp=mtr
thinking about an EFI intake upgrade
Radiator http://www.jegs.com/i/Champion-Cooling- ... 6/10002/-1
oil cooler not sourced yet
can the fuel injection be improved upon, I would like to keep it.. Not racing it just want responsive driving on the high way and sand.
any input is welcome.
I don't mind spending some money but don't want to do things that are not nesc for my application
cold air intake also?
water pump
timing chain
oil pump?
Cam ( mild and which one?)
what head work is required on the vortec heads if I do a cam?
valve covers?
I have the motor Mounts and I have cast iron exhaust manifolds that work for this application, courtesy of Captin Crunch
Should I put new pistons in and should I do any head work on the vortec heads if I leave the cam that is in it now?
crank polish and bearings?
Hone cylinders or bore 30 over? (is that a good number to bore over?)
I am going to have the machine work done and probably lower end, pistons, heads, EFI intake assembled by the same shop if I go that far into it.
I can wrench but have limited abilities.
Thanks
 
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#152 ·
short day today only 10 hours...........................
 
#154 ·
WoodButcher said:
Slacker,,,

:lol:

IDid you remember to eat or is that why you quit?
I was beat just went to sleep and I don't remember because the day be for I put in 16 hours, I was at my buddies shop till 11 PM painting the inside of the rockers. Like 2 hours between coats so it was between there and the paint booth most of the time accept for cabinet blasting at my house.
 
#156 ·
Rockridge said:
nice work on the skins. I need to bring you my truck for rockers and corners!
This job is no fun. Outters being welded in place now, total surprise. Started with a dime size hole in the top of the drivers rocker rite where the door closes. That turned into a nightmare that I am just wakening up from. Should be back to normal Monday morning.........................
 
#157 ·
Engine pushed back till end of next week. I really needed the extra week to complete all the engine parts and the rockers/ bottom of the van. The timing should work out good now :banana:
 
#158 ·
New cunnifer brake lines 2 down 2 to go, couple to the master cylinder and a splice in for the back and a splice in (for now ) for the back.
 

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#159 ·
Oil cooler line fitment solved for everyone. You can use the 4.3L oil cooler lines with the 5.7L oil filter housing. You can get the Hayden # 293 oil cooler line kit (you will need to cut the line fittings off one of the lines) or source the (2) 1/2" flare x 1/2" NPT? fittings and the (2) fittings that go on the oil lines. Cut off the mounting block end that connects to the 4.3L oil filter housing. You will need the double flare tool that goes to 1/2" line from Auto Zone. After cutting off the mounting block put the line fittings on and double flare the lines. Screw in the fittings into the 5.7L filter housing (I would use high temp thread sealant) and connect the oil cooler lines. They hold to at least 120 PSI as tested.
 

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#160 ·
So 3 major hurdles overcome for doing this swap.
Buddy from Maximum Performance in Bristol can bench tune the donor computer and repin and rewire your harness (you will need parts from the donor harness). Expensive but worth it. 1200.00 plus or minus.
I have not installed it yet but he guarantees no codes and the elect fan is turned on with EDGR delete and rear 02 sensors deleted, tuned for my tires and a mild cam. I have the pinouts and harness changes if you want to do it yourself.

Oil cooler lines solved

Oil pan is going to need fabrication but I have a guy that will do it
The pan and pick up is in the neighborhood of 275 and prob 125 to fab it
He also has the pattern for the motor mounts and will make them for I am guessing 200

I am having the exhaust done professionally in stainless.

Motor/computer/harness 1000
tune and harness wire 1200
Cooler lines/fittings/tool 75
Oil pan 400
motor mounts 125
hedman Headers 686008 400
I was already lifted 2" body pucks/ HD read springs/ journey hangers and shackles.
add 1800 for aux equipment and misc

I think you can do it down and dirty for 5K fixing stuff you see as you go.

I will post about the harness and computer when I am up and running
 
#161 ·
More pretty parts
 

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#162 ·
Rockers done just the grinding and body work now!!
Starter waiting on a new solenoid.
 

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#163 ·
would you mind going into some details about the drivers side rocker repair? i have that coming up and have been thinking about it a lot. looks like you made your own panel? did you have to cut so high or did you do that because of the natural body line?
 
#164 ·
Coaster said:
would you mind going into some details about the drivers side rocker repair? i have that coming up and have been thinking about it a lot. looks like you made your own panel? did you have to cut so high or did you do that because of the natural body line?
That panel s available from CARID and rockauto I think, along with the inner and outter rocker for the drivers door. I cut that high because it seemed to be a good spot, the trim covers it, and it allowed me to get into the entire rocker area to get rid of any rust or bubbling paint. It is not an easy job and you need good welding skills or need someone that has them. I stripped the inside of the rocker area as nesc, washed it with a marine wash then metal prepped it and coated it with 3 coats of KDS Silver. The rockers will get sprayed with a 360 wand as soon as I have the van on the lift to paint the bottom up to the back of where the clip sits. One additional note where ever you are going to weld a seam make sure there is no glue, seamsealer or paint in the area or it will pop the weld as you are doing it, Especially that foam crap and glue.
 
#165 ·
So with everything else going on and a couple of obstacles finally back to it. One coat of white left on the bottom and inner rockers. Motor is where it lives with some custom motor mounts, waiting on some flotecc headers (keeping my fingers crossed on those).
 

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#166 ·
Inner rockers complete down to the front of the rear wheel wells. Bottom done to rite past the back of the clip. I will drop the fuel tank on the next round and do those sections . Then drop the rear and do that along with the rest of the bottom, but for now its on to last coat of white and start putting everything back in the engine compartment as I am dressing the 5.7 on the clip in the garage!!!!!
 
#169 ·
Thanks guys. Now I just have to see if I can put it all together. :banana: :confused:
 
#170 ·
Modified and installed oil cooler lined and got the trans ready to be bolted in permanent.
 

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#172 ·
Clip almost fully dressed. couple of tranny oil cooler fittings, starter, spark plugs, bolt up the headers, install the distributor, modify the spark plug wire clips, and wire heat shields. Finish wiring the NP236 so it disconnects as the 136 did rite below the floor. That's about it. The van itself has about 3 or 4 days worth of installing everything I took out and rear heat lines/ valves, then drop it on the clip!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
#174 ·
I am getting a little excited about it going together. This is the longest swap in history though.
 
#175 ·
If given a choice, I would prefer the manual driven fan with a good quality fan clutch,tough dependable and proven, I would mount an additional electric out front of the condenser, it gives you the best of both and the option of additional airflow if needed. The power loss due to the House.P. draw of a mechanical fan will be minimal, if you are building the V-8 to produce the H.P. that you need or want the manual fan will not make much difference , but it will give you the dependability for insurance of protecting your investment in building the engine,the manual fan does not need a switch,a relay, athhermal electric switch or a computer to turn it on or off, the addition of an electric is a win win
 
#176 ·
Truckintom said:
If given a choice, I would prefer the manual driven fan with a good quality fan clutch,tough dependable and proven, I would mount an additional electric out front of the condenser, it gives you the best of both and the option of additional airflow if needed. The power loss due to the House.P. draw of a mechanical fan will be minimal, if you are building the V-8 to produce the H.P. that you need or want the manual fan will not make much difference , but it will give you the dependability for insurance of protecting your investment in building the engine,the manual fan does not need a switch,a relay, athhermal electric switch or a computer to turn it on or off, the addition of an electric is a win win
Already have the harness wired for an electric fan, new 1996 Taurus, these fans have rave reviews. The efan in the computer has been turned on and the computer has been bench tuned it should operate the fan just like it was factory. I have the Volvo relay wired into the harness also.
 
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