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Climate control cluster

8K views 37 replies 8 participants last post by  gordo999 
#1 ·
Has anyone had one of these apart and is the rear defrost button salvageable to take out of a unit and add to another unit . I want to use the switch or tap into it for a heated mirror mod.
 
#4 ·
OK I will go slowwwwwww,lol. I have another unit :D , I wanted to know if anyone knows what they look like inside? is the button removable? It seems almost sealed.
 
#6 ·
just opened one up. sealed unit and the switch appears to be part of the circuit board. So I will try to find what 2 wires go to the rear window defrost and tap into them for the mirrors? Anyone have a schematic on it?
 
#8 ·
AstroWill said:
The Techline eSI probably has it, check the link in my sig.

I would look it up for you but I'm currently fixing that computer.
Well I found the links but have NO IDEA where to look. If you get a chance and can put it up at some point it would be much appreciated.
 
#10 ·
Rinny said:
AstroWill said:
The Techline eSI probably has it, check the link in my sig.

I would look it up for you but I'm currently fixing that computer.
Well I found the links but have NO IDEA where to look. If you get a chance and can put it up at some point it would be much appreciated.
Well, first you need a bittorrent client, I like https://transmissionbt.com/
Then when you follow the first result from those links and you click on the magnet link to get the GM Techline eSI, it will open in your bittorrent client and start downloading.
Then you import that file into any virtual machine software that supports OVA(open virtualization appliance), I like https://www.virtualbox.org/ but you can use VMware as well.
What is nice is that there is no setup that way, and it works with all versions of Windows/Mac/Linux.
It's a few steps, but it's completely worth it, includes FSM from ~96 to 2005(for GM, not just A/S vans), and a lot of the TSBs and such as well.
 
#12 ·
1lowcab said:
I could never get it to install, downloaded it and followed all the directions and nothing. I finally broke down and bought one off ebay for $9.99, it was packaged to install right off the dvd. It is an awesome program and well worth getting...even if you have to buy it lol!
That is a common issue(have to follow the instructions to the letter, and even then it can be picky). Fortunately, that problem is non existent with the virtual machine, because it's already setup. ;)
The only thing that it's missing is a PDF printer, but that is easy enough to install yourself if you want that functionality(PDFcreator or CutePDF are good options).
https://goo.gl/n8dJkS

There was a medifire link floating around as well, but I don't have the complete link, I only have the following in my notes: zapy96kidk1yjbp

EDIT: The rest of the link might be, but I'm not sure: http://www.mediafire.com/file/
 
#15 ·
I am going to trace them back from the rear window in my parts van. See how that goes.
 
#16 ·
2 wires coming off the rear window defroster. A purple one on the drivers side and a black one on the passenger side. The blue one is easy enough to find on the cluster but the black one is not on the cluster, appears to be a common ground?
 
#17 ·
You mention purple then blue, same?
Is it perhaps routing through the inner fuse/relay panel before going to the cluster?
Or is the wire from the window going straight to the cluster?

Found this on older post:
You have 3 fuses to check on that circuit. 2 are under the dash and the other is under the hood
1-Fuse block #5 is the RR defog which is 30 amps and has a Purple wire leading into it.
2-Fuse block #12 is the HTR-AC fuse which is 20 amps and has a Brown wire leading into it.
3-The Under Hood Fuse Block is a 40 amp fuse for the HTD MIR-RR Defog and has a red wire leading into it.


It almost sounds like we could tap into the purple/blue on DRIV side and black on PASS side (assuming it gets all the way back to the front), just making the mirrors inline with the circuit.
 
#18 ·
So looking at the schematic, it looks like the Purple wire is what we should inline with and I think doing it AFTER the fuse would be wise.
:D
PPL goes from cluster down to fuse #5 then continues to the rear defogger.
I'm curious to see if we start popping that 30amp fuse.

I drew up the schematic a bit for reference and discussion:
HMP Tiff Hotspot Viewer 1.png
 
#19 ·
nosxjeep said:
So looking at the schematic, it looks like the Purple wire is what we should inline with and I think doing it AFTER the fuse would be wise.
:D
PPL goes from cluster down to fuse #5 then continues to the rear defogger.
I'm curious to see if we start popping that 30amp fuse.

I drew up the schematic a bit for reference and discussion:
Found this on older post:
You have 3 fuses to check on that circuit. 2 are under the dash and the other is under the hood
1-Fuse block #5 is the RR defog which is 30 amps and has a Purple wire leading into it.
2-Fuse block #12 is the HTR-AC fuse which is 20 amps and has a Brown wire leading into it.
3-The Under Hood Fuse Block is a 40 amp fuse for the HTD MIR-RR Defog and has a red wire leading into it.
I think I am coming out of the Purple (not blue, I am colored blind so sometimes things get fried, lol) wire into a 40 amp inline with 2 leads one for each mirror, coming out of the ground with 2 leads one for each. might push pin it together. Might change the 30 amp to a 40 seeing there is a 40 under the hood it should be ok?
 
#20 ·
Ordered these today, hopefully I can mod them to fit.
2014-2017 Chevy Silverado GMC Sierra Towing Mirrors Power Heated LED Signal Pair
I am sure I will need some type of voltage regulator for the LED
 
#25 ·
Ya, i was thinking of his previous post on the first page. But i realized ​that was a forum generated link.

So i just pulled the panels and traced the purple thicker wire. On my 2005 it runs from the rear window down the passenger side and up the A pillar, which is where I'll splice in. The ground doesn't run all the way forward so I'll run the ground elsewhere.

I'm going to try it with the 30 amp fuse and see if it pops.
 
#26 ·
Why not run rite out of the back of the climate control, that way you have equal distance to both mirrors?
 
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