I used clear silicone. Probably not a good way to go. Maybe wipe it with acetone first. I had to smear it thin and wide. The first bead I ran was laser thin and perfect, It did not stick . The thin and wide bead stopped the leak and that made me happy. It lasted for years that way. Looked like a child had chalked it, but as I get older things like that bother me less and less.
I used clear silicone. Probably not a good way to go. Maybe wipe it with acetone first. I had to smear it thin and wide. The first bead I ran was laser thin and perfect, It did not stick . The thin and wide bead stopped the leak and that made me happy. It lasted for years that way. Looked like a child had chalked it, but as I get older things like that bother me less and less.
Humid rain, to the touch, maybe a few hours. You could drive it around town after maybe 8 hours. A full day and maybe you could take it on the highway. You do nt want the force of the wind tearing the seal. If there is no flex in your joint you should be good by morning. I know the label always says 24 hours to full cure, but the humidity thing makes it tricky.
Humid rain, to the touch, maybe a few hours. You could drive it around town after maybe 8 hours. A full day and maybe you could take it on the highway. You do nt want the force of the wind tearing the seal. If there is no flex in your joint you should be good by morning. I know the label always says 24 hours to full cure, but the humidity thing makes it tricky.
one thing I fail to mention is you will not see the caulking for awhile, then dirt will cling to it, reveling itself as a dirt seal instead of the invisible chalk you first put on.
one thing I fail to mention is you will not see the caulking for awhile, then dirt will cling to it, reveling itself as a dirt seal instead of the invisible chalk you first put on.
Just get tube with a small pointed end. Jam it under the rubber trim on the outside. Run a bead around the windsheild on both sides of the rubber trim. Whipe the excess that squirts out off. Just keep rubbing as it hardens and it peels off easily and leaves no visible trace.
It you let it harden and then try to clean it off it wont come off and leaves a messy looking seal.
EDIT; aquarium sealer really works good to. It is clear.
I tried some black silicone and it worked in some spots, but didn't complete the job... Could be partially my fault, too. I got some 3M weatherstrip sealer which did the job again and it worked much better. :mrgreen:
I tried some black silicone and it worked in some spots, but didn't complete the job... Could be partially my fault, too. I got some 3M weatherstrip sealer which did the job again and it worked much better. :mrgreen:
I tried some black silicone and it worked in some spots, but didn't complete the job... Could be partially my fault, too. I got some 3M weatherstrip sealer which did the job again and it worked much better. :mrgreen:
Hey Lump - I peeled back the the weatherstrip to get the nozzle underneath it; then I squirted enough in so that it was overflowing out of the entire length of the weatherstrip. I also made sure to squirt some in the corners where the door overlaps. Once it dried I detailed it a bit by hand so it didn't look messy. The silicone was thinner and although I did it the same way it didn't seal it completely. Again, though, it would probably work had I put in more time and effort. In sum, though, the 3M product was a 5 minute process and there is no more leaking.
Now that I know the right sealer to use, maybe it'll be even frickiner awesome.
tnx
Lump
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Chevy Astro and GMC Safari Forum
438.3K posts
23.2K members
Since 2008
A forum community dedicated to Chevy Astro and GMC Safari owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!