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Removing torsion bar from lower control arm?

7K views 4 replies 3 participants last post by  Brent C Stevens 
#1 ·
Hello,

I'm currently doing a few jobs on the front right suspension on my GMC Safari AWD (91).

So far, I'm pretty pleased with myself having dismantled the brakes (need to replace pads anyway), driveshaft (gaiter replacement), and I'm left with a lower control arm that is only held on by the torsion bar, here's a pic showing that...

pic1.jpg


How do I disconnect the torsion bar so I can take the lower control arm out? I can't figure out how its put together properly, and this is unchartered territory for me. :confused:

I was unscrewing the torsion bar adjustment bolt the other end, but didn't finish this, not realising what it did, but have since found out thanks to the interweb, so when I re-assemble everything, I'll need to re-adjust this to match the other side I suppose.

pic2.jpg


Also, are there any pointers I should know? None of this is covered in my Haynes manual. All help appreciated.
 
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#2 ·
Well, unfortunately, it took too long for a moderator to approve my topic, being a noob on here, as I already figured it out...

Anyone looking for this information, the torsion bar can 'easily' be removed from the lower control arm by placing a socket over the end of the torsion bar (between the control arm forks) and giving a few thwacks with a club hammer. As soon as you see it move, tap the control arm next to where the torsion bar enters, tapping it off the torsion bar. Its simply a friction fit, took a couple fo minutes if that once I started with the hammer.

Panic over.

I'm now changing the balljoint - Not that easy to drill out the old steel rivets, and they certainly don't want to know about being hammered out.
 
#3 ·
Good thinking. You got'er done.
Regarding drilling out rivets, I have found that using a sharp drill bit that is about the same diameter as the shank of the rivet is the quickest way. Use a punch to bang a depression in the center of each rivet so the drill doesn't walk, then keep squirting some kind of spray lube on the bit while drilling. Once the rivet loosens up enough that it starts to turn with the drill bit, cock the drill about 15 degrees and continue drilling. With the drill cocked, it chews its way through the rivet in short order.
 
#4 ·
I don't know jack about tortion bars. But I agree with JayDub about the rivet situation.

I just did my ball joints and after grinding for a long time, I still ended up drilling to get the
rivet free. When I went to the other side, I just plain started with the drill and it took less time,
less worry about the grinder walking around etc.

Lump
 
#5 ·
One of the problems with the rivets was that they were tapered both ends, so I found the solution that actually worked best for me was to drill them out, and then use my air-hammer to chew away the remainder of the heads, which was easier than grinding off. They were a really tight fit, obviously not intended for easy removal.
 
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