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OBD1 Code 32 on 1995 Chevy Astro Van

30K views 19 replies 10 participants last post by  cseanard 
#1 ·
I have a 1995 Chevy Astro CL Passenger Van. I keep getting a Code 32 from the OBD 1 computer. I have a replaced the EGR valve, the EGR Vacuum Solenoid, made sure the EGR passages in the intake manifold are clear, check to make sure all of these lines are clear, and fixed any of the leaking connections. I have not yet replaced the Electonic Control Module. I keep resetting these OBD 1 computer, but the Code 32 keeps coming back. Should I replace the ECM? Please help! Thank you very much for your time. Sincerely, Brian Merk
 
#2 ·
A defective Coolant temperature sensor will cause a code 32 , as it will cause the ECM to think the engine temps are not where they should be ,

Make sure there is a good clean solid connection for the EGR valve-to-ECM connection, if faulty will set the code

Make sure all vacuum lines are good and not leaking
 
#3 ·
Phantom: Thank you for the help. I greatly appreciate it. I am really trying to get the OBD 1 Code 32 cleared up. I have a Haynes manual that describes where the Engine Coolant Temperature (ETC) sensor is at on the engine. It is on page 6-11 of the manual. This sensor is suppose to be on the outlet side of the left cylinder head, about two-thirds of the way back on the engine. I have called O Reilly's Auto Parts for the sensor availability and pricing. I am going to try to change it this weekend. I hope that will eleminate the Code 32. I have replaced every other part, checked for power, and checked and repaire the vacuum lines. I hope this will do it. If anyone else can provide some additional information before I try this next fix, I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you very much, Brian
 
#4 ·
Item 1 is the location of this temp sensor that communicates with the ECM

here are the GM part numbers ,,you will have one of these two , you will have to inspect what you have to know which one you have ,,

15326386 SENSOR ENG COOL TEMP,(2-WAY MALE),(03.682),(@8153263860 )
19187357 SENSOR ENG COOL TEMP,(*ALL MAKES)

if you find one on the side it will likely be for the
dash temp gauge

item 2 is knock sensor
 

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#5 ·
I'm interested in figuring this error code out as well. Mine comes on after about 15 minutes of driving and I can feel my engine performance decreases significantly. I notice the throttle response is VERY delayed as well and my mileage goes out the window. Do you have these same symptoms?!
 
#6 ·
Good day all! Thank you very much for the information. I greatly appreciate the help. To the individual who wanted to know about my van problems, which are similar to his or her. Yes, my vans Code 32 comes up after about 10 to 15 minutes of driving. I have also noticed that the engine performance changes. I lose gas mileage, speed and so on. I am going to install the new ECT sensor this morning. I also have to install a new water pump. The pump started leaking this weekend. I am getting ready to sell this 1995 Chevy Astro CL Passenger van. I have completed a bunch of work on the car. I am going to ask only the Kelly Blue Book Value for it of $ 4,141.00. If anyone is interested in purchasing it then please let me know. I can be contacted at 214-605-4755. The van has 28,800 original miles on it. Please provide any more advise if appropriate. Thank you for the help. Sincerely, Brian Merk
 
#7 ·
Good evening all. So, I changed the ETC sensor. I was hoping that the Code 32 would go away. The code has not gone away. I also have to change the water pump because the back seal started leaking. I have become very frustrated with this van. If its not one thing its the next. Can anyone please provide some more advise on what may be causing this Code 32. Thank you very much, Brian Merk
 
#10 ·
Phantom:
Good morning. Thank you for the information. I greatly appreciate it. I will replace the ECM next. This replacement is the only thing that I have not done yet. I have confirmed that I have all of the signals to all of the sensors and controls. The ECM must has an internal fault. The ECM is not that expensive. I have been pulling my hair out because of this problem. Thank you, Brian Merk
 
#12 ·
So you got the problem fixed? please be specific in what fixed it? I''m working on the same problem tonight. My van just started idling very rough/killing all of a sudden with code 32. Tested fuel pressure to verify no leakdown or possible leaking fuel regulator or injectors.
 
#13 ·
@MobileCustoms - Error code 32 comes from the EGR. If your van is stalling, I'm guessing that the EGR is stuck open. They get filled with carbon and aren't able to move which makes the valve get stuck open. I have the same problem on my van. I went ahead and bought a new EGR, but it didn't solve my problem. I had my car scanned and it says my intake manifold is really clogged up. I was told to use some chemicals to eat away all the carbon. You may have the same problem as this. I was told that seafoam breaks down carbon buildup so I am going to remove my EGR and super slowly pour some seafoam into the inlet and outlet to clean it out. I will let you know how well it works for me!

I also heard from a friend that you can buy a performance chip that will eliminate the EGR and give you better performance and gas mileage. He referred me to this site: http://www.fastchip.com/ I'm not 100% sure on any of the info that I heard so you should do some research of your own :lol:
 
#16 ·
Unfortunately, from time to time, the egr must be cleaned of carbon, then I use penetrating oil on the center , so that it move freely up and down by hand. The coolant tempterature sensor for the computer is a must. I reccomend repalcing it with the pigtail(solder of course), as just wrapping thw wire and taping it, will cause higher resistance values, pissn off the ecm
 
#17 ·
Help please!

1995 astro with 122,000 miles.

I have had a rough idle, hard start condition for about a year now. Tried standard stuff, plugs, wires when problem started. I have lived with it but recently it got to point I could not live with.

During the winter I tested the fuel pressure with gauge...right on the money.

This month I replaced the fuel regulator after watching a you tube video describing my situation and saying that was issue. It got rid of hard starts altogether and the smell of fuel which is what pushed me to acted. It also ran like new...for about a day. But rough idle has returned. When I had intake off in order to replace fuel regulator, I found EGR passage totally blocked with carbon. I removed and vac out so it would not fall down into EGR. Today I pulled EGR and its clean. Racking brain and thought hey "why was EGR blocked? is EGR bad? what would cause EGR passages to carbon over to point passages are 100% blocked? EGR bad?

I have replaced cap / rotor, plugs, wires, fuel filter, O2 sensor (carboned over ), MAP. also cat was replaced about year half ago. Vac lines seem to be ok.

Anyway sound off if you have ideas.
 
#18 ·
EGR's were a bad idea.
So bad they discontinued them.
It is pumping exhaust gas back into the intake. Yes rocket science at its finest. Well burnt exhaust contains carbon, oil, Burnt gas in a vapor state. Now it is entering a relatively cooler intake and condensing back into a solid. Blocking the EGR passage. Gumming up the intake runners cursed with their use by stuff the engine has already used and saw as burnt exhaust.
Your intake is clogged with deposits and the valves are probably covered with a thick layer like the picture of woodbutchers valve was. This layer glows red hot and causes pre-ignition in the cylinder.
Which first causes the engine to feel like it is missing.
Second side effect is the easier and better computer which is only as smart as the person who programmed it. This person was probably as smart as a turkey standing in the rain looking up drowning in the rain. Because they could not see a engine doing what it had been doing for a hundred years before they designed the computer.
Anyway the basic box of rocks useless for anything but a boat anchor computer has no clue what is going on and changing settings for fuel and timing trying to eliminate the detonation and actually making it worse.
Try a bottle or 2 of intake medic to eat the deposits away. Run lucas Injector cleaner for a few tanks of gas after that. See if that cleans things out.
Now cleaning the EGR passage out if you need a emissions test is a little tougher. Remember the state needs that EGR to work so this can happen again. You got to be getting better emissions when their pollution control equipment fouls your engine like this.
If you need help clearing that passage say so and we can discuss a couple possibilities. A easier way then a last resort way.

This concludes this episode of Randy's Rants. :angry-soapbox: :angry-nono: :angry-tappingfoot:
 
#19 ·
Your EGR passage was blocked with carbon due to your fuel pressure regulator failure. Happens all the time, including on my '93 Bravada (same motor).

I install the EGR, after cleaning and lubricating, with a Dorman/HELP! Clean screen gasket, part 47007. It has a screen on the inlet passage to the EGR pintle that keeps carbon out. After I did that on my '93, I never had to remove it and clean it. Still runs great despite the truck rotting out around it.

Next up is to pull the IAC, clean it and the passage behind it, put a little oil on the o-ring and reinstall it. Clean the throttle plate, front and back, and all around it. These would have gotten dirty/gummy during your FPR issue.
 
#20 ·
Code 32 fixed
failed emissions test and the light would always come on after about 15 minutes of driving, also rough idle.
1. replaced plugs, distributor cap and rotor, replaced vacuum lines, changed oil and filter, used injector cleaner, reset code. -not fixed
2. Replaced coolant temp sensor (2 wire in front of engine) - reset computer. - not fixed
3. Replaced EGR control solenoid and EGR valve, reset computer - problem fixed no more code.

I had cleaned the EGR valve about 1 year ago (10,000 miles) and when I took the old one off it was really gummy and sticky. I replaced it because when I bench tested it with a vacuum pump, the valve did not move. When I got the new one, there were instructions that said you could not bench test them because they need the exhaust pressure to move the valve.

Everything ended up being around $220

Hope this helps if you have the same code.
 
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