Can anyone post a picture of the stock composit leaf spring?

[Creepervan]

Im looking to see if I can get a picture of the stock composite leaf spring for my 94 astro van. Im looking to see the middle of thr spring where the axle and u bolts are. Im looking to build my own flip kit but I need to see if there is a hole in the leaf spring so I can make a way to center it on my custom perches. Most leaf springs have a bolt that holds all the leafs together and also acts as a centering bolt for the perch. If the mono fiberglass one has this hole, I will be able to buld a cheap yet structual flip kit

[chevymaher]

I think thats them.

[Creepervan]

Thabks for the pic, but is there a hole in the center where that rubber is?

[chevymaher]

I could not tell you that.I found the pic in a for sale ad.it was quoted as being to your year van.

[Creepervan]

Yes, those do look the same as mine. Anyone have a pic of the spring without rubber?

[Dirk]

The rubber is glued to the spring thus non removable.
However there is a center tab on the rubber (seen in the picture) which is used to center the spring on the perches.

[Creepervan]

Hmm, I didnt realize it was glued on.

[Dirk]

I think that I can say without any doubt that there is no hole in the leaf spring underneath the rubber.
Think about it for a second, a hole in that place would be a major weakness in the leaf spring.

[Creepervan]

I didnt know, almost every metal leaf in the world has a centering hole, wasnt sure about thes composie ones. Has anyone ever flipped the leafs upsiddown, making the arch accually lower the rear end? Is this not doable?

[Dirk]

You were on the right track but now you're straying into the dangerous..
Never ever flip the springs upside down or back to front, they'll snap!

It's dead-easy.
Disassemble the spring from the rear axle, take a really good look at the spring, the perch and the top plate.
When you look at the spring you'll notice that the rubber block has 2 ridges on top that correspond with the top plate.
When you look at the perch you'll notice a hole that corresponds with a lump that is on the bottom end of the rubber block.

What do you have to do to be able to mount the axle on top of the leaf springs?
Simple..
You'll need the top parts of the original top plates, the part with the 2 ridges in it.
This will become the new spring perch on the underside of the axle.
All that is left to do is fabricate a top/bottom plate out of the original perches to mount and center the spring on the axle.

If you were a bit closer I would help you with the modification of the axle, I'd probably have it done in half a day.
My suggestion to you is: get your hands on a flip kit and take some pictures and measurements before starting on this project.

[Dirk]

Ok, I shot some pictures to clear things up for you.

This is what the "centerbolt" on composite leaf springs looks like.


This is a view from the top. Note the two ridges on the rubber block these are also used to center the leaf on the axle.


This is what the spring perch on the axle looks like. Note the indentation in the middle which fits the center hump on the rubber blocks.


And this is the top plate which holds the spring to the axle.


With a little imagination you can visualize just what you need to modify to be able to mount the axle on top of the springs.

[gtkane]

When you remove the rear diff and the mounting brackets, you'll have to use a putty knife and a hammer to remove the rubber insulators.
With that removed, you will see a round "dot" on the top of the leaf. That is center.
If you use a grinder to remove the rubber, you will remove the dot and you are SOL.
I had drilled a 5/16 hole at the dot, and installed a 5/16"x1 1/4" bolt through the hole for centering.
Next, I removed all the original brackets from the diff with a grinder and cutoff wheel.
Pick up a pair of spring perches from the trailer store. I think the tube diameter is 2 3/4", and 4 U-bolts for the same.
Set the perches and the diff in place, doing a thousand measurements for center and pinion height, then weld perches in place.
Using a peice of 1/4" plate steel that measures about 7"x7", drill a 1/2" hole in the center to locate it, and place it under the leaf. Now mark and drill holes for the U-bolts, and tighten her up.

Two things to note are...
1. the rear diff assembly will not fit between the leaf and the frame rail. You have to either unbolt one end of the leaf to let it hang down, or remove the axles and backing plates for clearance. I did the latter because I found it more conveinent.

2. Prepare to make C-notches if you are not using longer shackles. The diff WILL hit the frame.

Hope this helps!

[Dirk]

And these springs still survive normal every day driving and an occasional beating?
I feel a little hesitant towards drilling holes in composite springs.

[gtkane]

4 years of SERIOUS abuse(drag strip, gravel roads, major potholes, not to mention catching air and bottoming out!) and not a hint of failure.
It's a small hole...don't worry about it!

[Dirk]

If it'll stand up to 4 years of abuse it shouldn't be too much of a problem I guess.
Have you used rubber between the mounts and the spring?

[gtkane]

No I didn't use rubber, but I did smear some silicone on the brackets to help eliminate any slippage. I should have mentioned that.

[Creepervan]

When you remove the rear diff and the mounting brackets, you'll have to use a putty knife and a hammer to remove the rubber insulators.
With that removed, you will see a round "dot" on the top of the leaf. That is center.
If you use a grinder to remove the rubber, you will remove the dot and you are SOL.
I had drilled a 5/16 hole at the dot, and installed a 5/16"x1 1/4" bolt through the hole for centering.
Next, I removed all the original brackets from the diff with a grinder and cutoff wheel.
Pick up a pair of spring perches from the trailer store. I think the tube diameter is 2 3/4", and 4 U-bolts for the same.
Set the perches and the diff in place, doing a thousand measurements for center and pinion height, then weld perches in place.
Using a peice of 1/4" plate steel that measures about 7"x7", drill a 1/2" hole in the center to locate it, and place it under the leaf. Now mark and drill holes for the U-bolts, and tighten her up.

Two things to note are...
1. the rear diff assembly will not fit between the leaf and the frame rail. You have to either unbolt one end of the leaf to let it hang down, or remove the axles and backing plates for clearance. I did the latter because I found it more conveinent.

2. Prepare to make C-notches if you are not using longer shackles. The diff WILL hit the frame.

Hope this helps!

That was excatly what I was trying to build, im glad someone showed it worked! How much drop did you get with this?

[gtkane]

Can't remember the exact drop, but I think it was between 6 and 7 inches..

[bbauerle]

Liteflex LLC is the manufacturer of the Astro OE springs. There is not a hole through the spring but the button on top of the cushion is used to located the spring. The cushion is bonded to the spring within a very tight tolerance so that the spring is assembled in the specified location of General Motors. E-mail me at bbauerle@liteflex.net if you have any additional questions.

Bob

[bbauerle]

The fiberglass leaf spring does not have a hole through the center for a bolt. The location to the axle seat is achieved using the raised nub in the center of the cushion.