Elec cooling fan - MPGs UP!

[Jasen]

It was some years ago, so memory has failed me. It was a full kit from either Summit or Jegs. That's back from when we built hot rods by driving to the speed shop and or using the land line to order from a catalog

[fivegoulds]

lol! getting old does have its disadvantages! I had to "remind" myself how to wire a relay in general

[DOcean]

Which year Dodge Durango fan assembly is recommended?

[chevymaher]

Which year Dodge Durango fan assembly is recommended?

I used a 98 360 ci durango fan. 318's don't have one. It is exact width of the radiator. I made my mounting points by encasing a nut in fiberglass. And JB Welded them to the radiator. That held the best.

Cost me 130 bucks at advanced auto new with lifetime warentee. They have a hard time finding it in the computer. Say they don't carry it, so have the part number ready.

[Lumpy]

... how did you get the a/c to turn the fans on? I needed to use another relay to turn the fans on with the a/c on.

My fan controller module has a lead that goes to the compressor. Turning on the A/C causes the elec radiator fan to come on, regardless of what the temp sensor reads.


Lump

[DOcean]

I used a 98 360 ci durango fan. 318's don't have one. It is exact width of the radiator. I made my mounting points by encasing a nut in fiberglass. And JB Welded them to the radiator. That hold the best.

Cost me 130 bucks at advanced auto new with lifetime warentee. They have a hard time finding it in the computer. Say they don't carry it, so have the part number ready.

Did you retain the stock fan shroud? Do you have a write-up of the swap so I don't continue to bug you with questions?

[redfury]

My V8 stays just fine and cool with a stock 5/8ths inch radiator and the 94 lincoln\thunderbird electric cooling fan. The important part was biasing the fan towards the inlet so that it would cool off the hottest coolant and then the small gap on the passenger side could finish off any extra heat with normal driving if it even required it. I haven't got the A/C hooked up and running yet, but we've had our muggy hot 95F days here and it hasn't even hinted at getting hot...it runs the same as it did in the winter.

[chevymaher]

I used a 98 360 ci durango fan. 318's don't have one. It is exact width of the radiator. I made my mounting points by encasing a nut in fiberglass. And JB Welded them to the radiator. That hold the best.

Cost me 130 bucks at advanced auto new with lifetime warentee. They have a hard time finding it in the computer. Say they don't carry it, so have the part number ready.

Did you retain the stock fan shroud? Do you have a write-up of the swap so I don't continue to bug you with questions?

No I don't use a fan shroud. It ran a point cooler on the freeway because of it to. Underhood temps dropped as well.
I never did use a temp control, just a relay. Key on it runs, I had no problem last winter stayed warm as toast. The mounting points were originally fiberglassed to the radiator. They would work loose after a year. JB Weld is what I use now. It stays tight now. It stayed alot cooler with the electric fan than the stock one. But adding the dual core radiator solved everything. Temp never gets to 200 unless you get off the freeway and sit in stopped traffic in over 100 degree temps. Below 95 degrees it never moves off of a quarter on the gauge.

viewtopic.php?f=34&t=11968

[Lumpy]

Electric fans typically have a shroud built around them as part of the assembly that holds the fan. It may not cover 100% of the radiator. Mine is maybe 3/4 of an inch short on one side. But they pull a gazillion CFMs of air through the remaining 99% of the radiator.

Maher, do you have a way to turn your fan off if you're doing some kind of work on the van that requires key on?


Lump

[chevymaher]

Maher, do you have a way to turn your fan off if you're doing some kind of work on the van that requires key on?


Lump

It is only on with the key on, not acc. My relay is on the brake propotioning valve. I just unplug the low voltage wire if I need to while I working.

[Bread Van]

Lumpy

Can you point me in the direction of those zip tie thingies you were talking about. I'm guessing its different than standard zip ties. I'm thinking about doing this when I decide to install front pucks. Cooling system needs a flush anyway so the timing should be good.

Thanks

[Lumpy]

Lumpy

Can you point me in the direction of those zip tie thingies you were talking about...

Here's some -
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMM-80278/

Yes, they're different than regular wire ties. Heavier material. They have flat ends tht sit against the radiator and the fan pieces.


Lump

[jrsride2002]

It's a CompressorWorks TorqueFlo 733647, about 35 bucks from AutoZone -
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/ ... 61_9583_0_

Comes with everything you need including fuses, mounting hardware, install diagrams and instructions etc.

The fan is a two speed Dorman 620-101, about 100 bucks from RockAuto. I'm using the low speed only. If I find I want to use the high speed, I can simply pull the spade connector off the low speed terminal and reconnect it to the high speed term.

Lump

Hey Lump.

What wire did you hook the ignition up to??? Sounds like you didnt hook the high speed up to the AC wire, reason?
My current set up works but, it needs to be redone. This looks like this would be the right way. Currently I have my batt going to the fuse, the fuse going to relay, the relay to thermostatic switch, thermo switch to fan(low speed only no high speed at all). I dont use my AC often so could/should I just wire the High speed to the thermo switch and change the settings on the switch?? Ive been told to wire it different ways, go back to stock clutch(oh hell no), just keep replacing the fuse holder... I just want to do it right. Electrical is my bane, I have never really understood how to read a diagram nor how things work(like the relay). A little coaching would be much appreciated.

I have obviously got something wrong when my fuses catch fire... Not just blowing the fuse holder or fuse but it catches on fire. Still have the flame scorch mark/stain for the last one.

Thanks dude!
~Junior

[Lumpy]

It's a single pole controller. ie it turns ONE switch on or off as the thermostat crosses the appropriate temp. So either the cooling system temp OR the A/C being turned on, tells the controller to "turn on the fan". If I have it plugged into the LOW speed part of the fan, that's what it will turn on. If I have it plugged into the HIGH speed side, that's what it will turn on.

If your fuses catch on fire they may be oversized for the load. ie you've got a 30A fuse where you need a 10A fuse. Then, of course, something is causing that fuse to blow. Reducing the size of the fuse won't cure the problem, but it will blow the fuse earlier, as it's supposed to do.

The wiring diagram that comes with the controller is pretty straightforward. Identify a constant 12v+ source, identify a good ground, identify a HOT IN RUN source that turns on 12v+ when the ignition is on. You can find that in your fuse housing(s). Buy a $3 voltage tester at harb freight or any LAP or hardware store. It looks like a screwdriver with a pointed probe. There's a light bulb in the clear handle and a wire lead with an alligator clip on the back. Clip that lead onto some good ground metal in the van, then stick the pointed probe into various spots in the fuse box. When you hit a spot that is 12v+ the light will come on in the tester. To find one that comes on only with ignition, do the same thing while you have the key turned to ON. Once you find a spot where the light glows, turn OFF the ignition to verify that it's switched with the key and not just on constant. Sometimes you'll find a fuse labeled IGN or similar. You'll probably want to verify that the spot comes on with IGN only and not with ACC. Test that by turning the key backwards to the ACC spot. If the light comes on, that's not the right place to draw power for the fan. You want it to come on only when the
IGN is on.

If you're not comfortable with wiring automobile stuff, it would probably be a wonderful idea to find a buddy that was. The skills aren't difficult in the least. Crimp some connectors, strip some wire, in some cases you don't even need to learn to solder. About the only tools you'll need to buy might be that voltage tester and a crimper/stripper. Anything else you might need is probably normal stuff like screwdrivers and pliers. You could buy a multimeter tester for very little (free right now at HFreight w/coupon in their flyer). But really, for testing stuff like this, I think a simpler light bulb type voltage tester is easier and more convenient to use.


Lump

[Ragenme]

Thats good reporting! I know what my next project will be! Plus Im always looking for more MPG'S Thanks Lumpy

[Lumpy]

Here's the schematic of my install. It might be much more elaborate than a basic install since I added gauges, shut off switch, extra relays etc. But should anyone be interested here it is. It's pretty high res if you click on it and allow it to expand -




Lump

[jrsride2002]

Thanks Lump for the schematic, but im not going to look at it. It far more complex then stock setup, not to be rude or anything.

One other question. What gauge of wires are on the Torqflo??
Currently I rockin 12gauge wires to all my thingys to make sure the wires done melt.

Sounds like I can use the my thermo switch for the high setting and use the new unit for the low setting. I dont plan on hooking it up to the AC. If I do find a good key source for the power, how would I "tap" into a fuse, in the fuse box? Also would the the source wiring be able to handle a 40amp draw?? When I pulled the fans from my local PnP, they used a 30amp fuse, and the new unit comes with a 40amp fuse/relay thingy. Can that fuse/relay be changed to a smaller size so I can avoid fires??

With my current setup, I did switch the fuse to a 10 but still popped the fuse, I going to have to buy some different sized to play around with it(I only have 10's and 30's in my collection). Im kinda thinking a 15 will work for ONE speed, and the 30 was designed for both... Maybe??

So, red wire to the batt.
Black to the body ground.
Green is the AC, being left unplugged.
Orange to low/high speed.
Yellow to ignition.

I went through my FSM. What if I Dasie chained off the wire that feeds the three fuses(the key allows power to three fuses only before the engine starts), and not a specific fuse?? Would that work or would that melt the wire? Been thinking on that and just havent found the courage to just do it without some real knowledge.

Thanks for helping me out guys!!!
~Junior

[chevymaher]

Thanks Lump for the schematic, but im not going to look at it. It far more complex then stock setup, not to be rude or anything.

One other question. What gauge of wires are on the Torqflo??
Currently I rockin 12gauge wires to all my thingys to make sure the wires done melt.

Sounds like I can use the my thermo switch for the high setting and use the new unit for the low setting. I dont plan on hooking it up to the AC. If I do find a good key source for the power, how would I "tap" into a fuse, in the fuse box? Also would the the source wiring be able to handle a 40amp draw?? When I pulled the fans from my local PnP, they used a 30amp fuse, and the new unit comes with a 40amp fuse/relay thingy. Can that fuse/relay be changed to a smaller size so I can avoid fires??

With my current setup, I did switch the fuse to a 10 but still popped the fuse, I going to have to buy some different sized to play around with it(I only have 10's and 30's in my collection). Im kinda thinking a 15 will work for ONE speed, and the 30 was designed for both... Maybe??

So, red wire to the batt.
Black to the body ground.
Green is the AC, being left unplugged.
Orange to low/high speed.
Yellow to ignition.

I went through my FSM. What if I Dasie chained off the wire that feeds the three fuses(the key allows power to three fuses only before the engine starts), and not a specific fuse?? Would that work or would that melt the wire? Been thinking on that and just havent found the courage to just do it without some real knowledge.

Thanks for helping me out guys!!!
~Junior

High and low speed are controlled by the relay system you use. At say 175 degrees one contact or wire becomes hot. It is connected to the low speed wire on the fan. At 190 a second contact/wire becomes hot it is connected to the fans high speed wire. Now some relays only have one contact. So you choose the speed you use.
On the fuse box there is a flat blade labeled IGN. It is hot with the key on and not when the key is on acc. Run a small wire(speaker wire sized) from it To the field coil side of the relay. Marked by the curley que pigs tail deal on the relay, and my crude Fred Flintstone drawing. Other side same sized wire to a ground on the core support.
The other side come from common power behind the battery, with a large gauge wire. Some one will fill in that blank for size gauge wise in a later post. To the relay. From the relay to the fan. Grounding the fan to the common ground with another big gauge wire to the common ground on the core support. Same size wire the fan using. Same thing for the fans high speed. Sorting the high and low speed at the fan and the relay the trickiest parts. The 40 amp fuses are for the high voltage side of the relay leave them alone.
I hope this helped and didn't confuse the heck out of you. I know it confused me trying to think that long.

relay.jpg (62.82 KiB) Viewed 345 times

[jrsride2002]

High and low speed are controlled by the relay system you use. At say 175 degrees one contact or wire becomes hot. It is connected to the low speed wire on the fan. At 190 a second contact/wire becomes hot it is connected to the fans high speed wire. Now some relays only have one contact. So you choose the speed you use.
On the fuse box there is a flat blade labeled IGN. It is hot with the key on and not when the key is on acc. Run a small wire(speaker wire sized) from it To the field coil side of the relay. Marked by the curley que pigs tail deal on the relay, and my crude Fred Flintstone drawing. Other side same sized wire to a ground on the core support.
The other side come from common power behind the battery, with a large gauge wire. Some one will fill in that blank for size gauge wise in a later post. To the relay. From the relay to the fan. Grounding the fan to the common ground with another big gauge wire to the common ground on the core support. Same size wire the fan using. Same thing for the fans high speed. Sorting the high and low speed at the fan and the relay the trickiest parts. The 40 amp fuses are for the high voltage side of the relay leave them alone.
I hope this helped and didn't confuse the heck out of you. I know it confused me trying to think that long.

Hey Maher!
Thank you also for helping me figure this out. OK, so I currently have one 4 pronged relay, which wired correctly will only serve for one speed. Got it! Thanks.

For the IGN to relay wire, is it better to run from behind like the rest of the fuse wiring, or run it up over the rest of the fuses?

So powering the relay, and grounding the relay should be a heavy gauge wire(my 12 gauge). The ING wire will be lighter gauge. Fan power and ground will also be the heavier wire(my 12 gauge).

Here is what I got right now(Brace yourselves for this one):


Here is what ive been thinking about doing:


Keep in mind, I have only been planning on the one speed, just because thats all this relay can handle... Maybe a 5 prong relay?? Also, would I be keeping the fuse between the batt and the relay/switch?? Thats how I have it, batt to fuse, to relay...

Really, thanks again guys. I have a lot of electrical gremlins to chance down, and this is just one of them...
~Junior

[zeke7237]

Don't ask me how I know this .. but make sure you don't take excessive load from the alternator without adding additional cooling! The engine fan does a much better job of cooling the alternator than an electric will ..