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2002 Astro LT RWD
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125 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Please forgive the very original nickname but that's all anyone ever calls it around here. No plans for a new nickname.
Bought this in 2013 with the intention of driving it for a few years and then moving on. It came by way of a car-flipping family member who bought it as a salvage vehicle after a hard hit above the front frame rails. That may have ended up being a blessing in disguise as many of the more corrosion-prone areas (core support, front fenders, etc) were replaced at that time. It has morphed into a vehicle that I plan on keeping indefinitely. So long as SE Michigan is home, it's strictly an April-October rig. Last road salt encounter was in late 2019.
It's currently at 176k and 98% bone stock. Like many of us, I'd eventually like to do a V8 swap and other serious mods but for now it's just a few minor upgrades.
After the "salt no more" decree, I paid a local body shop to weld in a solid junkyard dogleg behind the sliding door. I did the finishing work myself and was 63% happy with it. There are long-term tentative plans to re-address the weld seam. In the mean time, it's a 15 footer (significant improvement over the "before" state visible at nearly any distance).
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Over the past Winter, I decided to make the efan upgrade that has been documented in various pieces around the forum. Went with a j-yard dual fan setup from a 00' Camaro. The radiator coverage area is close to 100%. I wanted to attempt a factory style mounting and made a few brackets that attach to the original shroud mounts.
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I went the easy route and purchased a Dual Fan/Two Speed relay kit from BP Automotive with the LT1-style fan connectors. Had I done a bit more research, I'd probably have gone with a j-yard 05-06 Silverado relay setup (@stent went this route) that appears to be more-or-less the same animal as the BP automotive kit (just used and $100 cheaper).
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Using @WinnieVan's excellent writeup I added a 40A Maxi fused lead for the fans and upgraded the + supply from the battery to 4 awg.
Going into new territory for me, I cracked open the PCM connectors and added leads to the previously unused efan terminals (Low Speed - Con 1 - Pin 42)/(High Speed - Con 2 - Pin 33). Thank you to @AstroWill @CopperFiremist and others for doing the research on this possibility for the 411 PCM. I was able to program the PCM with 2002 Silverado efan parameters using PCM Hammer and TunerPro (both freeware). There really isn't a single how-to source for this process but it's relatively simple albeit a bit nerve wracking for the newbie.
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Looking forward to a bit better freeway mileage (80% of what this rig sees), quieter take-offs and ease of access to the front engine area. Hoping to keep up with this "build" as time and $$ allow.
 

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2002 Astro LT RWD
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125 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That is quite a nice rust repair job on the wheel arch!
Thank you. I appreciate the compliment. The photo I chose was probably more flattering than other angles. The body man did a good job of welding in the patch panel I provided. It was the best dogleg I could source around here. Interestingly, the rust-thru areas were the opposite of my van's.
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99 AWD BadAstro
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281 Posts
If there is that much visible rust, the rest of the van is not far behind. I urge you to please sell this and get a different van; in the long run you will spend SO MUCH LESS money and it'll actually be worth something. That van is gone.
 

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2002 Astro LT RWD
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125 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If there is that much visible rust, the rest of the van is not far behind. I urge you to please sell this and get a different van; in the long run you will spend SO MUCH LESS money and it'll actually be worth something. That van is gone.
The dogleg rust was due to a flawed design leading to debris buildup behind the dogleg. While I would by no means say that the rest of the underbody is clean, I'd call it "not bad" for Michigan. Hoping that without anymore salt and doing small repairs as I go along, improvements can gradually be made.
I'd wholeheartedly agree that starting a with a dry climate van with any number of mechanical flaws is preferable to almost anything with advanced corrosion.
If you found mine alarming, check out @tinworm 1999 AWD Safari corrosion project
 

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99 AWD BadAstro
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281 Posts
That is just insanity. These are not rare or (relatively) expensive vehicles, compared to the cost of labor for paint/body work.
 

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Common Sense + Critical Thinking
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IMO these vans just aren't worth putting a lot of body work time into, unless it's something you want to get practice doing, or enjoy body work as a hobby.
 

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If there is that much visible rust, the rest of the van is not far behind. I urge you to please sell this and get a different van; in the long run you will spend SO MUCH LESS money and it'll actually be worth something. That van is gone.
Wheres the fun in that?
 

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2002 Astro LT RWD
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125 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
IMO these vans just aren't worth putting a lot of body work time into, unless it's something you want to get practice doing, or enjoy body work as a hobby.
FWIW, I spent about $650 (in late 2020 prices) to give the van a rust-free and decent outward appearance. This included the junkyard dogleg and body shop labor, patches on both rockers, about 12 oz of POR-15 and a handful of clear coat touch-ups.
Great investment? No
Reasonable cost and worth it to me? Yes
 

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Common Sense + Critical Thinking
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I think that is completely reasonable, that is about what a good set of tires costs.
 

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2002 Astro LT RWD
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125 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
After a failed attempt to repair the cracked grill with epoxy, I bit the bullet and ordered a new flat black grill from an eBay seller and gave the front bumper a fresh coat of Plasti Dip. The aftermarket grill is noticably more flimsy but installed easily and has gone 7000 miles without failure :D. The Plasti Dip looks like it will need continous recoating (no big deal) due to rock chips etc. Reasonably happy with the outcome. Not too many shots of the original grill setup but managed to find a 3/4 image taken in Arches NP back in 2020 (also before previously mentioned rust mitigation).
Also thankful 🙏 to report a mostly trouble free 5500 mile roundtrip from SE Michigan down to Southern UT these past few weeks. Not sure what happened with the rear brakes I fully R&R'd back in June (WCs, drums, shoes, hardware) but developed a RR overheat/shake/warp condition in Colorado (about 1200 miles in). Managed to resolve the issue in the Fort Morgan, CO O'Reilly's parking lot before heading into the Rockies the next day. After I had taken apart the brakes to diagnose, one the O'Reilly's employees was nice enough to lend his truck to this complete stranger so I could get to the local Autozone for a few parts he did not have in stock. Nice to meet nice people and important to remember to pass this sort of thing along.
No idea if this was installer (me) error or a faulty part but perhaps stay away from the Bosch bonded shoes given the plethora of options available. Part store cheapies have been working fine since replacement (also did the LR side a family member's house in UT after noticing that it was getting a bit hotter than its neighbor).
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2000 Lifted 4x4 Astro 92 V8-350 Shorty
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Not sure what happened with the rear brakes I fully R&R'd back in June (WCs, drums, shoes, hardware) but developed a RR overheat/shake/warp condition in Colorado (about 1200 miles in)...
I have personally found with mine that even the SLIGHTEST engagement of the emergency brake will cause all sorts of grabbing and lockup issues. I'm not talking about a full click of engagement either, I'm talking anything less that 100% fully up position. My brakes and drums are in excellent condition, as I checked them when this started occurring some time back.

I found this out last month when the tire shop had engaged my e-brake and it was not completely released. I drove off fine, but when I touched my brakes.. the rears locked up into a skid until I completely stopped (in the middle of the road), then they freed up. Locked up several times until I got back to shop where I took a close look at things, and discovered pedal was down about an inch. Since then the brakes have been a little grabby, so I made a very minor brake pedal adjustment that remedied the problem.. now my stops are smooth again. My problem is probably amplified by my lift, and the fact the e-brake cable mounts have not been modified, causing my cable to have no slack.

I only suggest this as a consideration since it affected my unusual braking problem, despite no issue with the actual brakes themselves. Maybe your e-brake lines are rusty or corroded and sticking a little. At the very least, pull e-brake release and physically pull up on pedal as far as it will go. Maybe go underneath for a visual and try tugging on the line to see if it moves freely.

All this assuming brake adjusters are set correctly. Mine were, but problem still persisted.

It's worth a try if you can't find any other possible explanation.
It happened to me

PS: Sounds like it was a nice trip otherwise!
 

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2002 Astro LT RWD
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125 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Pulled the Van off the road in late October for it's annual Winter Rehab/Salt-Free-Slumber. One of the frame supports used by the front fuel tank strap was severely corroded (likely due to the 17 years this van spent as a year-round daily) and in danger of complete failure. In addition to that, portions of my tank shield have been held up for several years with zip ties and wire. I had picked up a solid shield at the Las Vegas Pic-A-Part during the July roadtrip. I'm continually shocked/jealous and maybe even a bit misguidedly angry at how clean a desert underbody can be.
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Seeing as I was dropping the tank anyway, I decided to go ahead and install the fuel pump access hatch I've wanted for some time. Since some of the interior was coming out for that, I thought taking all the carpet out and doing some minor floor pan rust clean-up with POR-15 and perhaps installing a layer of soundmat might not be a bad idea.
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As expected - the rust situation was significantly worse than expected........:LOL:
I went to work with a hammer to see what was still solid and what was wasted.
In short, the scope of work increased 3x beyond the original plan.
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There were a few other small (1-3") rust-thru spots around the seam areas in the front, but the floor pan around both wheel wells was gone. After cutting, it appears that the issue might have been water/salt/etc build-up in the frame rail corroding the metal above. Not surprisingly, the interior of the frame rails themselves were also significantly corroded. I'm now relatively sure this is a common rust-thru area on these vans. The other inner portions of my frame do not appear to have much beyond light surface rust. They are solid. I'd be curious what others might find beneath their floor coverings.
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The worst rust in the frame rail was in the "dip" just forward of the rear axle. It appears that a drain hole should have been present in this area. I've since drilled a small hole in both of mine.
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These photos are about a month old. Significant progress and significant scope increases have occurred since. Hoping to document this as I go along.
 

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2002 Astro LT RWD
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125 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The fuel tank, exhaust, and spare tire tire have been removed. Here's a nice compare of Michigan vs Nevada tank shields. Looks like the padding tends to hold in moisture, salt etc. Surprisingly, my tank straps were still in solid condition.
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Decided to descale and clean all reasonably accessible rust from the front subframe back. Hoping to tackle the front areas during a future engine swap. After removing the rusted-thru metal on the compromised cross-brace, I was left with pocket fitting a 30" 14ga 2x2 tube that has been cut and drilled to fit. The white substance is an acid etch that preps the surface for POR-15.
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During a recent cold spell, the interior of the van made for a handy heated paint booth. For now, waiting on humidity levels to drop so the POR-15 application can continue.
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