[randyngayle]

Hello just found this site a couple weeks ago. Was looking for a little info on replacing the torsion bars. iu been a mechanic in the military for 12 yrs so this wasnt a new undertaking however the lack of info on the subject was frustrating. In searching for actual images of the torsion bar and related parts i found this site. So in short broke bar and how to remove it. Mine was welded by an idiot and required cutting weld around the adapter. Second finding a used bar and not doing the modified short bars. Well my problem was my adapter wouldnt come off the adjuster and so i improvised bar replacement by removing the tabs on the rear of the adapter and driving the bar through the adapter from front to back. Then i placed the front back into the control arm and drove it into place and then braded the end of the adapter to replace the tabs that held it at the rear. If it helps anyone in a similar position get their bar back in ur welcome.

 

[grandamle91]

Hello There

I Have A 97 and im trying to get the bars off so i can get the cat off and replaced, but i can't seem to get the bar to move, i've takin the bolt out took the presssure off of it.

And ideas, hints.

thank you
Evan

 

[1iwilly]

i found this info hope it helps

here is the removal and install for thr torsion bars

REMOVAL&INSTALLATION

Certain procedures in this guide, including torsion bar removal and installation require that you first UNLOAD the torsion bar. This is accomplished using a special unloading tool such as J-36202 or equivalent. If you are performing service on another part of the vehicle, that first requires the torsion bars to be unloaded, refer to that portion of the torsion bar removal and installation procedure in this section and perform the necessary steps as outlined.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

See Figures 1, 2 and 3
Fig. 1: Torsion bar unloading tool

Fig. 2: Exploded view of the torsion bar mounting-1990-92

Fig. 3: Exploded view of the torsion bar mounting-1993-96

Disconnect the negative battery cable for safety.
Raise and support the front of the vehicle safely using jackstands.
Mark and unload the torsion bars:
Mark the adjustment bolt setting on the bolt adjusters.
Increase tension on the adjustment arm using the unloader tool J-36202, or equivalent.
Remove the adjusting bolt and retainer plate.
Move the tool aside.
For 1990-92 vehicles:
Slide the torsion bar forward and remove the adjustment arm.
Remove the nuts and bolts from the torsion bar support-to-crossmember. Slide the crossmember rearward.
Mark the location of the front and rear ends. Mark either left or right because the bars are different.
Remove the support crossmember, retainer, spacer and insulator from the crossmember.
For 1993-96 vehicles:
Remove the torsion bar anchor adaptor by sliding the adapter out toward the rear, then removing the adjustment arm.
Note the location of the tape or painted stripe at the rear ends of the torsion bar (since there are different bars for the right and left sides), then remove the torsion bar from the vehicle.

To install:
For 1993-96 vehicles:
Note the location of the tape or painted stripe at the rear ends of the torsion bar and position the bar to the vehicle. Remember that there are different bars for different sides of the vehicle and the tape or paint should be located to the rear.
Install the bar anchor adaptor, by positioning the adjustment arm, then sliding the adapter tube over the torsion bar and adjustment arm.
Make sure the adapter tube is properly seated into the front face of the crossmember. Make sure the torsion bar is properly seated into the rear of the adapter tube against the stop tabs.
For 1990-92 vehicles:
Install the insulator, spacer and retainer onto the support crossmember.
Install the crossmember onto the frame, rearward of the mounting holes.
Make sure the bars are on their respective sides. Slide the crossmember forward until the bars are supported.
Install the adjustment arms, crossmember bolts and nuts. Torque the center nut to 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm) and the edge nuts to 46 ft. lbs. (62 Nm).
Properly tension and adjust (as necessary) the torsion bar:
Increase the tension on the torsion bar using the unloader tool.
Install the adjustment retainer plates and bolt.
Set the adjuster to the position marked during removal.
Release the tension on the bar until the load is taken up by the adjustment bolt, then remove the unloader tool.
Remove the jackstands and carefully lower the vehicle.
Check and adjust the "Z'' height as outlined in the alignment information later in this section.

 

[GaryZ]

I replaced my AWD cat last year and ran into the same problem . . . Torsion bar is in the way. After finally deciding it had to come out, it actually came out pretty easy. Raise the front end until the right front wheel is hanging off the ground and support the frame with adequate jack stands. Mark or measure the tension adjustment bolt in order to put it back in the same place later. Remove the tension adjustment bolt. Use appropriate pry bar and lift the tension adjust bracket enough to remove the small bracket under it. When you release the pry bar, all tension will be off the torsion bar. Use a hammer and drive the torsion bar forward out of its sockets. Reverse to install.

 

[Matrixx]

Outstanding write up here folks. I vote for a sticky on this one.

 

[ghostrider1061]

all this info is good. however don't make a preidental decion and try to o the job with a c-clamp. if you do it wih a c-clamp you are headin for BIG trouble. :2:

 

[howiez]

Anyone know what that 'Z height" is? it says 'later in this section, but i'm guessing that is in the manual that is quoted here. I have a clunk in the drivers side front suspension, and i'm guessin teh torsion bar is either broken, or loose. So i guess i'm asking how do i know the correct setting? On my S-10 blazer, i cranked them tighter after a v8 swap to adjust ride height and account for a bit more weight. BUT in this 2000 AWD Astro, i have not touched it, factory 100k on it and the clunk developed. any ideas?

 

[decypher]

Hi all

New to here and it was a great find. I found this forum looking for info on repairing my broken torsion bar. I have a 95 Safari AWD with a popped right torsion bar. It appears that the left hand side had already been replaced with a 36" newer bar and the right hand side has the 42" with the adapter. I got the bar out of the front A arm by liquid wrenching the death out of it, hitting the rear of the broken bar forward as I found it hard to get a good swing on the front ..even with a piece of bar on the front end, then tapping it back.
I went off to my local scrap yard to pick up another 36" torsion bar they said they had for $75. When I got there, I discovered that the right hand bar was actually a left hand bar based on the rotation arrows I saw on the front end of the bar (a bit of info I believe I picked up from your forum so thanks)
I notice quite a few of you have raised your vans up which is something I was interested in doing. I figure now is the time to try something . I don`t think I have ever seen a jacked up astro/safari here in TO. I was looking at overland vans site and was hoping for an opinion from you guys. I`m thinking of picking up the high lift adjusters and new bars. I have composite springs on the rear so i`m not sure what to do there…will blocks work? Shackles? Air shocks? I don't want much of a lift at this point ..1-2" is good enough right now. Is it possible to install the high lift adjusters and not raise the front? I expect my suspension would be too soft.
I keep seeing bars (Dorman)advertised for around $ 100-140 but they don`t ship to Canada. Don`t know if you have suggestions here..besides moving to the US.
Another thing, thanks for all the info and pics you people posted. However I`m a little cloudy on understanding this assembly .I don`t see what is keeping the bars from working forward or back. There doesn`t appear to be any retainer… did I break something off? Is it just the pressure of the spring that keeps it from moving forward or back? I also am not sure why the crossmember needs to removed (yet) .seems like the bars should pass right through and back into the adjusters..
I noticed the cat is right above this bar so I intend on anti seizing the crap out of it in case I have to remove it again.
I look forward to hearing from you and I intend to be here often

Thanks
Decypher

 

[Hotrod1451]

I have a 94 AWD safari and it broke the drivers side torsion bar.
Friend of mine owns a repair shop and did some research and told me he found that the early bars should have been recalled as they were on the short side and known to fail.
the newer parts to replace them are longer and will not break as the originals did.
So we replaced both sides and its great now.

 

[safari_drummer]

Hey, I'm in the middle of this job on a 92. My driver's side torsion bar broke, so getting it out wasn't an issue. But I'm having an issue getting the other torsion bar out of the torsion bar anchor (as shown in the 90-92 diagram). I've been at it with a small sledge trying to get the torsion bar to slide forward out of the anchor with no luck. To the point where the anchor is free, and the entire assembly can slide all the way back, but front hex on the torsion bar is too big to fit through the hole for the rear hex. So it's back to the sledge. Any ideas on how I can get this anchor off the old torsion bar?

 

[thomaso24]

Hi!

My first post here.

I have an small issue with my recently installed torsion bars. These are the new version, 35" long.
How are them supposed to stay in place since there is no anchor holding it all together? Is it just the
tension keeping it all together? I would imagine they could slide forward and drop off eventually.

 

[safari_drummer]

Ok, I am trying to get this van back on the road, again. I managed to remove the old torsion bar. Now I'm having an issue getting the new bar in. Once I get the rod slid into place, the adjusting arm seems all wrong. It has room to fit on the torsion rod in 2 positions, one of which is far too loose, letting the van completely fall to the ground. In the other position, the adjusting arm protrudes out of the frame far too low, and no amount of force will raise it high enough to get the retaining plate in under it. I even tried using a jack and a socket extension in the indent, to try to raise the adjuster arm, but the torsion rod is so tight that it just jacked the whole van up. I was worried that I have the wrong torsion bar, maybe for the other side of the van, but the marks on it are right, and it came as a pair with the drivers side torsion bar, which went in perfectly without an issue.

I have really got to get this van back on the road. Does anyone know what I may be doing wrong, or how I might go about getting this torsion bar in?

 

[Leeann_93]

Hope this helps:

 

[safari_drummer]

Thanks, Leeann, the diagrams do help, however I am still doing something wrong.

I've got the pass side torsion bar in the only way it would slide in without pressure. The adjuster bolt is screwed all the way in. The driver side is sitting perfectly, with about 1/2" of room to tighten left on the adjuster bolt. The pass side front and rear is sitting extremely low, about 2" from the wheel wells.

I have no idea what to do to get this van to sit right.