[Huxley]

Hi,

New member here, hello everyone! I'm from Syracuse NY and recently purchased a 1995 Chevy Astro for $500. It was for many purposes-hauling the dogs around, hauling non working motorcycles around, hauling other assorted crap, etc. My mechanical background is limited and is based off of older Japanese motorcycles.

Anyway, here is my laundry list of issues and I'm not sure what is what-I do not have a manual as of yet and haven't been lucky enough to find a PDF copy anywhere.

The van will not currently start. Battery seems like it's ok but I just put my booster pack on it to see if it might have been too weak to turn the starter. Didn't make any difference at all. Nothing. I turn the key, hear the fuel pump turn on and build pressure, and then when I try to start it, I hear one single click from below the front area and that's it. It does not turn over at all. I just tried it again after writing this and now I hear multiple clicks and a strange sound from inside the car...a high pitched sound that almost "speeds up" as I hold the key in the start position longer. I assume this is a bad starter.

Before this occurred, the steering wheel was nearly impossible to turn and I heard a loud whirring sound when I attempted to. Checked the power steering fluid reservoir and it was almost empty and smoking (didn't drive it anywhere, just tried backing up in the driveway). I filled it to the appropriate level, same deal and then the fluid leaks out underneath the van. Haven't been able to pinpoint the source of leaking. I assume this is a bad power steering pump.

As if this wasn't enough, when the power steering thing happened the brakes started to go too. I know there was a bad brake line going to the rear brakes upon purchase. Now, before the van stopped starting completely, the brake makes this horrible moaning sound when applied and vibrates once you apply any pressure to it.

The only other problem that I've noticed is the gas pedal. Suddenly the gas pedal is almost on the floor. The cable seems to be out much farther than it should be. There is still some ability to press the gas pedal and have the cable respond, but not as much as there was when it was driveable.

I know this is quite a bit to ask for help on for a new member. If anyone here has the time and inclination to help me figure this out and some possible suggestions on how to get inexpensive parts I would be very appreciative. If anyone here would be willing to barter for parts I would also be very appreciative.

Thanks for any and all help and I, of course, am willing to take this one step at a time starting with getting the van running again.

-Nate

 

[Huxley]

By the way-it's RWD, not 2WD. I mean, I guess by default it's two wheels but yeah. Engine has 224k on it.

 

[Matrixx]

Hi Huxley
Welcome to the forum and wow, that's a lot to under take in a new purchase. The first thing to do is to check and see what motor you have in it, 95 was an odd ball year with odd ball parts. The production date of your van will be important as well as your vehicle identification plate that's mounted on your dash (drivers side) which you read through your windshield, this is very important to know as it tells people that are looking up parts for you, what options were installed in your van as well as motor type paint type etc. Have you checked the fluid levels first before firing it up? All fluid levels? What does the motor oil smell like on the dip stick? Is it clean or black?

If it doesn't start and just clicks then might I suggest you not "force" it. If you have checked the battery connections and they are in clean condition and each post is securely fastened to the battery, then it is more than likely the starter or starter solenoid. on "rare" occasions, it could be a part failure in the motor causing this lock up as well, but like I said it's "rare" but you need to be aware of it being a possibility as well. An auto wrecker would be a cheap place to look for parts (starter) in your area or get a rebuilt one that isn't to expensive (recommended). Just a side note here is, it is very important to have the healthy and proper battery installed with these vans (at least 650 CC (Cold Cranking) amps). The rest will be trouble shooting on your part to find the problems. Here is a link that may help,
it's helped me a great deal and hopefully it will help you. Here:
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroke ... Crumbs=YES

Again welcome to the forum, and I'm sure others will chime in when they get a chance.

 

['cudapaul]

First, your van has Hydroboost; that means it uses the power steering pump to provide power assist boost for the brakes. No power steering, no brakes. Find the power steering leak and fix it, chances are your brakes will now work.

These particular model years had a problem with the firewall connector that connects the four fusible links to the vehicle's electrical system. The connector is behind the battery; remove the battery to get to the connector. Unbolt the single nut that holds it in place and check the four connectors inside the plastic body for burning or discoloration. If you see anything discolored, don't bother cleaning them, the problem will come back. Instead, just cut the wire that goes to that bad connector and crimp a ring lug on the wire and place it under the bolt just above the connector. That bolt has 12 volts on it coming directly for the battery.

Hope that helps!

 

[Gary]

Hi,

New member here, hello everyone! I'm from Syracuse NY and recently purchased a 1995 Chevy Astro for $500. It was for many purposes-hauling the dogs around, hauling non working motorcycles around, hauling other assorted crap, etc. My mechanical background is limited and is based off of older Japanese motorcycles.

Anyway, here is my laundry list of issues and I'm not sure what is what-I do not have a manual as of yet and haven't been lucky enough to find a PDF copy anywhere.

The van will not currently start. Battery seems like it's ok but I just put my booster pack on it to see if it might have been too weak to turn the starter. Didn't make any difference at all. Nothing. I turn the key, hear the fuel pump turn on and build pressure, and then when I try to start it, I hear one single click from below the front area and that's it. It does not turn over at all. I just tried it again after writing this and now I hear multiple clicks and a strange sound from inside the car...a high pitched sound that almost "speeds up" as I hold the key in the start position longer. I assume this is a bad starter.

Before this occurred, the steering wheel was nearly impossible to turn and I heard a loud whirring sound when I attempted to. Checked the power steering fluid reservoir and it was almost empty and smoking (didn't drive it anywhere, just tried backing up in the driveway). I filled it to the appropriate level, same deal and then the fluid leaks out underneath the van. Haven't been able to pinpoint the source of leaking. I assume this is a bad power steering pump.

As if this wasn't enough, when the power steering thing happened the brakes started to go too. I know there was a bad brake line going to the rear brakes upon purchase. Now, before the van stopped starting completely, the brake makes this horrible moaning sound when applied and vibrates once you apply any pressure to it.

The only other problem that I've noticed is the gas pedal. Suddenly the gas pedal is almost on the floor. The cable seems to be out much farther than it should be. There is still some ability to press the gas pedal and have the cable respond, but not as much as there was when it was driveable.

I know this is quite a bit to ask for help on for a new member. If anyone here has the time and inclination to help me figure this out and some possible suggestions on how to get inexpensive parts I would be very appreciative. If anyone here would be willing to barter for parts I would also be very appreciative.

Thanks for any and all help and I, of course, am willing to take this one step at a time starting with getting the van running again.

-Nate

First off,
New member or not-it is never too much to ask for help.That's what we are all about-common interests in Astro/Safari vans.So lets try to see what I can do to help out and maybe others will chime in too.

1) I think your on the right path about the starter.Just disconnect the battery before you remove the starter,

2) The power steering leak-well I would get a spray can of carb clearner and clean up the pump,lines,and see where it is leaking once you get the engine running again.

3)These vans run off a hydro-boost system on the brakes and not a vac boost.So brake line aside-the power steering leak would effect your power brakes too.

4)The gas peddle issue-if it where me,I would take off the dog house to see if once the peddle was pushed down, it went back to the ilde position.Has the van been sitting for awhile??.Could it be the throttle plate is stuck??.Might have to shoot that with carb clearner to free it up.

To take off the dog house-you need to remove the center pc which has the ash tray /glove box.There is two latches on the floor and two screws toward the top of the dog house on the side.(Yeah one of the things I hate about these vans.)

Autozone web site has breakdown on alot of these parts-check that out.

The best way to get help for anything else is to post to the sections on the forum that are related to the question you might need help with.N/P-to post this on the first howie.

Hope this helps you out some-ask any question you want here and welcome.

 

[Huxley]

Hey again everyone!

Thanks so much for the fast and helpful replies! I am certainly happy to see that this board is very active and helpful-I get really stressed out regarding car issues and it's great to know there is a place I can turn to ask for help if needed.

Unfortunately due to weather as of late and me not having a garage to work in, I haven't been able to do much with the Astro BUT I did find out the following...

The wiring behind the battery that was mentioned looks ok. Next obvious step was checking the battery just to make sure it was good...nope! First of all, it was only 550 CA or something like that and I know someone mentioned I need 650 CA at least. Second, and more importantly, when I brought it down to Advance autoparts to get it checked out it came back as a "replace battery". This could explain why the jumper pack I hooked up to it had no effect, right? Maybe? Sorta?

So now my new question at the moment is this-where is the absolutely most inexpensive place to get a battery with 650 CCA? I was looking at the one they wanted to sell me at advanced but I don't feel like shelling out $80 for a crappy no name battery when I'm not sure whether or not I'm going to keep this thing yet. If anyone has any suggestions that would get me going in the right direction in regards to starting this thing up, I'd greatly appreciate it.

-Nate

 

[Gary]

Hey Nate-at some point given the needed part,you got to go belly up against the parts counter and pay the going rate for that part.

 

[johnny-77]

Some part stores can get from the manufactures blemished batteries. Thy perform as well as all the others but have defects like discolored plastic.
Me if I'm strapped for cash I hit up the interstate dealer for one, however their isn't usually a warranty on them. You get what you pay for.
If you cant find them in you area then as Gary said you'll have to belly up. :2:

 

[Huxley]

Oh I'm all too familiar with bellying up for needed parts. Remember those old Japanese motorcycles I mentioned? I wouldn't be as strapped for cash if it wasn't for those damn things. I'll check into the interstate dealer thing and go from there-appreciate the suggestions and I'll let you know how I make out.

-Nate

 

[Huxley]

Well that was easy-found an econo at an Interstate Battery distribution center that's apparently 7 minutes from my house for 28 bucks. I'll be picking it up tomorrow. Even has a 6 month warranty. Not great, but hey, 28 bucks. I'll post if and when I get her started tomorrow.

Thanks again folks!
Nate

 

[Matrixx]

Hi Huxley
I'm glad to see you got the battery issue sorted out. Hopefully it will be 650 CCA or more, anything less I found will put a lot of strain on things like the starter and it won't last as long as it should. I found out early on with my van, the higher the CCA's the the better and longer things perform and last.

I have owned my van since new and it still has the original starter in it at this point, that's 12 years and 500,000 kilometers on the clock. Inter-State Batteries I found (personally) to be the best in being a long lasting battery, I had an Inter-State over 7 years in my van and it was still going strong when I replaced it with the Optima. I still have it (Inter-State) kicking around and it was holding a charge when I last checked it, it's just sitting around now, I don't want to get rid of it because it's still good, I guess I'm a bit of a Pack Rat hehe. Take Care,

 

[Huxley]

Hey again all!

Been a little bit since my last post. I had to let the van sit for a while unfortunately thanks to financial issues and the fact that I was focusing more on my Honda Nighthawk these last weeks.

An update of events thus far:

Got a econo battery with 650CCA just to see if I could start the van. It DID start up and for sitting outside for 3 weeks I was pretty impressed. Now my most immediate problem is that issue I mentioned before with the pedal being on the floor. The van is just revving out of control as soon as I try to start it and I can't stop it simply by pulling the pedal back up. I think the throttle cable spring is missing but I'm not familiar with the set up here. I was looking at the Haynes service manual for this van at an auto parts store-the picture and description were not very helpful to me in figuring out how to rectify this issue. Could someone here walk me through on sorting this out? I know where the throttle valve body is, I just don't know what might be missing or where I need to go from there. Once this is done, it's on to the power steering lines! YAY!

Thanks again folks and I'll be a bit better about posting to the site when I do something new. I lost my password for a bit too so I finally was able to reset that.

Take care,
Huxley

 

[Huxley]

Hey again-I'm not sure how clear I was in my last post-I could use the help of someone with more knowledge than I have on fixing this throttle cable/body issue. I don't know if that came across in the post above.

Thanks anyone and everyone,
Huxley

 

[Matrixx]

Hi Huxley
Yes I saw the first post. I had a look at the diagrams and their are 2 different styles for that year. Both have the throttle return spring located at the throttle body itself. That's the only one I can see myself. If you can get a closer look at that throttle body where the return spring is hooked up, I'm sure you can figure the rest out. Make sure the cable isn't binding on something at either end.

It' also states to keep everything 2" away from the cable as well. If you have to disconnect or replace the cable, then start at the throttle body first, disconnect everything thing their, then work your way back to the gas peddle and disconnect that last. Install is the reverse. If you need more help, please let us know, i sure others will chime in if they can.

 

[Huxley]

Hey all,

Ok back to work on the Astro. Just took the motorcycle down to Florida and back-now I need this bugger working before winter. First up is the throttle...can't do anything with the throttle doing what it's doing right now. I took a pic-sorry for the quality or lack thereof. Any advice here? I don't quite understand how that throttle body is supposed to look.

Thanks,
Huxley

 

[Matrixx]

Hi Huxley
Well that would explain things, You don't have a throttle cable hooked up at all. Notice the Black bracket, That's where the throttle cable is suppose to be hooked into (Locked into place). Their does seem to be reminence of a cable still hooked up at the throttle body (Wire part). The throttle return spring looks loaded (tension) and appears fine. Is this a Z or W motor? (8th Digit on VIN Plate)?

PS:Might I suggest you spray everything down with WD40, It looks very rusty in their where rust shouldn't be. Please keep us updated, Thanks.

 

[Huxley]

Ha-alright then, that does certainly help out. As you can probably tell, the only throttle cables I've ever dealt with typically end at a set of 4 carbs and they're always connected to just two wheels. Do I just hook this back up then? I'll find out tomorrow I'm sure when I can actually see what I'm doing. Also, it's a W engine. Any big differences between the two? Thanks for the reply and for catching that so quick. Hopefully I'll be able to figure this out without too much of an issue. Then, it's on to steering pumps or lines-any insight on how to diagnose a faulty steering pump versus a line? Right now, everytime I fill the fluid reservoir, almost all of it ends up on the driveway.

Thanks again,
Huxley

 

[Huxley]

Alright I'm trying to loop that throttle cable back around the correct way but I'm still having issues. I don't quite understand how it's supposed to go. Does anyone have a PDF of the service manual?

 

[Matrixx]

Hi Huxley
The first thing to do is to make sure it's hooked up to the gas pedal first and locked into place at the fire wall. After checking that and it's hooked up and secured, then you hook and lock into place the cable to the black bracket. After doing that, then you gently reach over to the throttle body and open it full throttle. At the end of the cable, you have a round cylinder shaped pin that goes through the opening at the throttle body and the cylinder hooks into to place their.

The important thing here is to not bend the cable in anyway while doing this. Once the cable is hooked into place at the throttle body, then just slowly release it to let it return to idle position and everything should be fine. Odd that the cable would be unhooked to start with though. Make sure you test it for free movement in and out of the cable to make sure. I don't have any PDF's myself sorry, maybe someone can help out their, it is a straight forward job though. Please keep us updated, Thanks.

PS: It's just like a throttle cable on a motorcycle, same concept.

PPS: No it doesn't matter in this "particular" case no, but it's good to know the engine type. It's just positioned differently than mine but it's the same type that's why I asked, Thanks.

 

[Huxley]

Hey Matrixx,

Thanks for the reply here.

The issue I'm struggling with is this-I don't have enough slack to get it around that bracket. The picture I took should be rotated 90 degrees to the left. I'm sure most who saw that know this already. Also, I unhooked the cable myself today to try and get it to go around everything correctly. Weird thing is that it's almost like the throttle valve body is at full speed and I can't turn it with my hand to get it to whatever idle position would be. I wish I had some sort of image that shows what a normal hook up looks like. I'll take a peek tomorrow again and see if it starts to make any more sense with your description. I'll let you know how I do and I'll make sure to begin at the gas pedal and check to see if everything is right there first.

Thanks again,
Huxley