2001 AWD 5.7 Swap
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Hi All!!!
Finally gave up on the original 3-times rebuilt transmission and bought a 'built' 4L60E / 4L65E from a local transmission shop. I installed it this last weekend and wow, shifts so much better. Should have done this when I did the swap originally.
Anyway, I'm moving now and won't be able to park a second vehicle at the new place. I commute a lot (or used to and expect to again post-covid) So I'll be keeping my manual 6spd CTS.
With a heavy heart I'm selling my van. Would love to see it go to a good home. It needs NOTHING - except oil changes, fuel and adventure.
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/d/ ... 95677.html
Finally gave up on the original 3-times rebuilt transmission and bought a 'built' 4L60E / 4L65E from a local transmission shop. I installed it this last weekend and wow, shifts so much better. Should have done this when I did the swap originally.
Anyway, I'm moving now and won't be able to park a second vehicle at the new place. I commute a lot (or used to and expect to again post-covid) So I'll be keeping my manual 6spd CTS.
With a heavy heart I'm selling my van. Would love to see it go to a good home. It needs NOTHING - except oil changes, fuel and adventure.
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/d/ ... 95677.html
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A few pics
I have seen somewhere on this forum that raising an engine 2" (with lifted body) would be sufficient.. but I'll leave it someone who has actually done it to reply for certain. Some searching and you may find the answer. This is how I intend to do a V8 in my AWD ..Bigforkg said:
Mmusicman I have seen somewhere on this forum that raising an engine 2" (with lifted body) would be sufficient.. but I'll leave it someone who has actually done it to reply for certain. Some searching and you may find the answer. This is how I intend to do a V8 in my AWD .. [/quote]
The only one I seen and read about had to do with a LS swap.
[/quote]The only one I seen and read about had to do with a LS swap.
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Two inches should be enough, lifting the drivetrain higher over the subframe will help a lot with exhaust manifold - subframe clearance on the passenger side too, It's a good idea. Are you going with custom motor mounts?
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Getting it dirty
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I was going to CNC Plasma cut triangular mounts with a 1" space between the two. A guy (Lumpdog) in build section lifted his red and gold astro did it that way. I looked at pan and wow the $$$ so Im hoping not to have to buy or modify.mervchapman said:
Did you use the astro transmission? Is that why the problems? Im looking at a Donor Engine and trans from a 99 Tahoe.
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I think lifting the motor& trans is a good idea as you have the room w/ your existing lift.
There are some differences between the 4L60E for the V6s and V8s, four vs five pinion planetary is one example. I'd go with a known good 4L60E transmission preferably from a V8 application while you're doing the swap. I've had the trans out post-swap no less than four different times now and it's no longer entertaining LOL.
i tow w/ mine so an additional cooler and fan is installed now. probably worth ordering new cooler lines and a 1" core radiator while you're at it. There an oil-cooler and transmission cooler on the sides of the radiator. Making sure you have no cooler line obstructions is well worth the effort.
There are some differences between the 4L60E for the V6s and V8s, four vs five pinion planetary is one example. I'd go with a known good 4L60E transmission preferably from a V8 application while you're doing the swap. I've had the trans out post-swap no less than four different times now and it's no longer entertaining LOL.
i tow w/ mine so an additional cooler and fan is installed now. probably worth ordering new cooler lines and a 1" core radiator while you're at it. There an oil-cooler and transmission cooler on the sides of the radiator. Making sure you have no cooler line obstructions is well worth the effort.
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341 Posts
Just an update, van passed SMOG again no worries. Transmission is holding up but I noticed my rear axle housing is bent. Springs are not mounted close enough to the wheels. I'm going to try and straighten it out with a 1/2" chan and jack. I must have bottomed out towing and the impulse bent the tubes.
Otherwise, motor is running fine 50k or so miles on the L31 now.
Otherwise, motor is running fine 50k or so miles on the L31 now.
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341 Posts
Camping rig
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@BigForkg I thought I'd share this about the rear end too. I replaced these Rancho 9000's (3rd set in 8 yrs) With Monroe load-assist shocks. There are the shocks I'm sure you've seen with the springs built-in.
As you'll see below I've made 3 main mods to the rear-end.
First is the aftermarket diff cover. Those two bolts under the fill plug apply pressure to the axe bearing shells and spread that load over the cover mounting bolts which is why you see the horizontal brace cast into it.
Second are the air-springs. I installed auto-leveling valves on each side to maintain the desired rear-end height. tank is rear of the spare and the compressor is mounted up-front. It's switched so it's only on when towing or van is loaded.
Here's the caution though. the air springs are awesome but limit wheel travel (compress). Here's the problem that led to the 3rd mod. While having a little too much fin at the 4-wheeling area at a local OHV park I bottomed out hard at the rear which bent the axle housing. Boooo.
Looking at the van from the rear there was obvious negative camber L-R across the axle. Tubes bent between the diff and wheel bearings and the weld failed at the diff on the driver-side tube.
I took it to my welder buddy to scope out a trussing solution and we cut some tube. Inner diameter of tube = outer diameter of axle tube. We cut the tube along its length and welded east section as you see to the axle tubes and diff cover.
Last night I lifted the van up and straightened out the tubes.
How? I hear you ask. I picked up some 1/2" chain and used a 20-ton bottle jack. Wrapped the chain around the axle at the out-board most part and around the opposite side of the diff. Put the bottle jack between the chain and the air-spring mount and nervously applied thousands of pounds of pressure.
There are vids on YT on how wo jig and straighten out the axle but tis worked for me eye-balling the wheels. Looks true now and rear-end howling is sorted.
As you'll see below I've made 3 main mods to the rear-end.
First is the aftermarket diff cover. Those two bolts under the fill plug apply pressure to the axe bearing shells and spread that load over the cover mounting bolts which is why you see the horizontal brace cast into it.
Second are the air-springs. I installed auto-leveling valves on each side to maintain the desired rear-end height. tank is rear of the spare and the compressor is mounted up-front. It's switched so it's only on when towing or van is loaded.
Here's the caution though. the air springs are awesome but limit wheel travel (compress). Here's the problem that led to the 3rd mod. While having a little too much fin at the 4-wheeling area at a local OHV park I bottomed out hard at the rear which bent the axle housing. Boooo.
Looking at the van from the rear there was obvious negative camber L-R across the axle. Tubes bent between the diff and wheel bearings and the weld failed at the diff on the driver-side tube.
I took it to my welder buddy to scope out a trussing solution and we cut some tube. Inner diameter of tube = outer diameter of axle tube. We cut the tube along its length and welded east section as you see to the axle tubes and diff cover.
Last night I lifted the van up and straightened out the tubes.
How? I hear you ask. I picked up some 1/2" chain and used a 20-ton bottle jack. Wrapped the chain around the axle at the out-board most part and around the opposite side of the diff. Put the bottle jack between the chain and the air-spring mount and nervously applied thousands of pounds of pressure.
There are vids on YT on how wo jig and straighten out the axle but tis worked for me eye-balling the wheels. Looks true now and rear-end howling is sorted.
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Have you thought about a Ford 8.8? Like member dit has done? https://www.astrosafari.com/viewtopic.p ... 8&t=143268
I am just because of the aftermarket options. I like that you don't quit.
I am just because of the aftermarket options. I like that you don't quit.
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