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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Recently I up graded all of my lights to LEDs. I called Headlight Revolution, what a joke,,, but their suggestions were spot on.

This applies to sealed beam headlights only.

First I'll start with the equipment.
Headlights: 2 Holley Retrobrights classic white pn LFRB120 (DON'T BE CHEAP YOU'LL LOVE THESE!)
Front turn: 2 GTR Lighting GTR.LED571 Carbide2 CANBUS Series 1157 LED Bulb - Red
Front & rear marker: 4 GTR Lighting - GTR.LED534 Low Profile Lighting Series T10/194/168 LED Bulb - White
Rear brake: 2 GTR Lighting GTR.LED582 Carbide2 CANBUS Series 3157 LED Bulb - Switchback
Reverse: 2 GTR Lighting - GTR.LED435 GTR Ultra Reverse Light
Reverse adapter: 2 GTR Lighting - GTR.LED436 GTR Lighting Ultra Series LED Reverse Bulb: 1156 Adapter
Plate and glove compartment: 1 each GTR Lighting - GTR.LED315 T10/194/168 Canbus LED Bulbs - white (remove the door panel and pull the bulb fron inside the door. Glovebox tip box out pull plunger switch out and the bulb is in your hand)
Dome and threshold: 6 Morimoto - XB-2 LED 42mm Festoon (LED610)

3 other parts you'll need is:
1 LED compatible turn signal thingy
2 LUMAWERX H4/ 9003 Switching Ground Polarity Modules

I just completed mine and I love the setup,,, but its not cheap.

My van has "switched grounds" like Japanese cars.
It's an easy test with a lighted tester or finger poker is what I call them.
Remove the driver's side headlight.
There should be three wires colored blue, pink, and yellow. (Passenger side is tan/white instead of yellow)
Hook tool to ground.
Turn on headlights.
Touch the yellow wire (or tan/white on passenger side).
If it stays lit up on both high and low, you have a switched ground. The blue and pink should not light up.
If you have switched ground headlights you'll need the two modules.
Plug one end into the wire socket and the other end into the headlight then attach the black ground wire in a convenient spot.
Test your lights and giggle like a child.

BTW,,, both low and high beams come on when you turn on the high beams with the modules installed, just like the mod everyone does.
 

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Common Sense + Critical Thinking
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Have any pictures of your upgrade?

If you have switched ground headlights you'll need the two modules.
Or just buy the sealed beam LED headlights that are wired properly for negative switched systems, less common but available.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Have any pictures of your upgrade?


Or just buy the sealed beam LED headlights that are wired properly for negative switched systems, less common but available.
Not yet. I'm disabled and do things slowly right now. But I'll get some posted.
I posted what worked for me and everything I put in.
Neither Holley, Revolution, or Chilton wiring diagrams could help me get my lights working.
They want you to use a pigtail that does nothing.
After watching YouTube and poking around I figured it out.
That module is the cats meow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
One more point i forgot to mention.
I bought these headlights that had the right light pattern, from a reputable company, and that had been tested.
There are some funky lights out there. If I blind others, or, I can't see anything, what good would aftermarket lights do other than showing I need manhood replacement therapy.
I'm putting these on so I don't have to worry about cops frivolously pulling me over for something stupid,,, like lights.

Also this is my testbest for ideas before I get fiscally irresponsible with a real Astro project. If something works I'll post it. My theory is, I can treat my drive train like a cartridge. So I'm going to invest in a k member with everything mounted to start an EFI MegaSquirt build.
 
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