[Meterpig]

So this is odd..why is there an aux button on cd player if there is no real aux? On the older radios, the cd player used a pin on the harness going into the head unit. Is that not appliable here?

Looking good everyone, next I'm going to add bluetooth so music and navigation sounds from my phone will be through the factory radio.

Fyi...I hav a bluetooth adapter and it works great except for one thing. When not in use, it puts a high pitched hiss through the system even if the adapter isn't being used. It modulated with the led on the adapter. It probably isn't quite shielded like it should be. For 12 dollars I can shut it off. Point is, I would keep the adapter where it can be shut off or disconnected.

 

[Leeann_93]

So this is odd..why is there an aux button on cd player if there is no real aux? On the older radios, the cd player used a pin on the harness going into the head unit. Is that not appliable here?

In other vehicles with other headunits it's used. I would guess it was economy of materials - same faceplate regardless of internals, apparently. I tested my aux input and it does indeed NOT work with the CD unit but does work with the cassette unit.

 

[Meterpig]

Bastards

 

[Lumpy]

Bastards

Auxillary Bastards.

Lump

 

[AstroWill]

Looking good everyone, next I'm going to add bluetooth so music and navigation sounds from my phone will be through the factory radio.

Fyi...I hav a bluetooth adapter and it works great except for one thing. When not in use, it puts a high pitched hiss through the system even if the adapter isn't being used. It modulated with the led on the adapter. It probably isn't quite shielded like it should be. For 12 dollars I can shut it off. Point is, I would keep the adapter where it can be shut off or disconnected.

Which one did you purchase, I will try a different model.

 

[AstroWill]

Fyi...I hav a bluetooth adapter and it works great except for one thing. When not in use, it puts a high pitched hiss through the system even if the adapter isn't being used. It modulated with the led on the adapter. It probably isn't quite shielded like it should be. For 12 dollars I can shut it off. Point is, I would keep the adapter where it can be shut off or disconnected.

Which one did you purchase, I will try a different model.

MP replied by PM(TY) that this was the one that was causing a high pitched hiss ---removed dead link---

So I ordered ---removed dead link---

 

[AstroWill]

So I ordered ---removed dead link---

I received my bluetooth audio adapter today and just tested it in my van. I bought the white one because they had it for $1 cheaper and I plan to mount it where it will never be seen.
The package included the white adapter, usb cap, 3.5mm audio cable, and the 110vac 1a USB power adapter.

I first connected it using the 12vdc adapter on the left, it had a horrible hiss and crappy sound. I thought to myself, great this thing is a POS, I'm going to have the same problem as MP mentioned above. Then I grabbed an extension cord and the supplied 110vac adapter. After it paired with my phone again it had ZERO hiss, great sound, perfect volume, no bass problems, with the 110vac adapter. Then I tried the next two 12vdc adapters. They were better than the first, with the one on the far right being the best but still has a slight background noise to it, really noticeable when it's a quiet part of the song.

So I need a better source for the 5vdc that is required, ideally directly from the radio itself but I would be willing to get a dc/dc adapter and connect it behind the radio to the acc power. I guess it's time to tear into the radio in search of a clean 5vdc supply.

If anyone knows of a cheap plug in adapter that has clean power, let me know.

MP- Maybe try a different power supply with yours, might be able to get rid of that hissing.

See the next post for the fix!

 

[AstroWill]

I tried it in my Tiger as that has a USB supply built into the radio, and no noise issues at all. Ok, so I figured I would buy some adapters to try and here they are.

Most of these were worse then the ones I already had on hand, so I did some research and found that it was a ground loop problem. What is a electrical ground loop, it is an unwanted current in a conductor connecting two points that are supposed to be at the same potential but are actually at different potentials. Well damn, so THAT is the problem, a widespread problem as well. So what is the solution you may ask yourself, use transformers to remove the electrical connection between the output of the bluetooth adapter and the input jack on the radio. You could make your own, just have to go shopping at Mouser or another parts warehouse but they are readily available already made for you as well.

I bought this ground loop isolator from Radioshack as it was local and on sale.

However to reduce wiring connections here is one that already has a 3.5mm plug and jack on it to simplify the wiring.

https://amzn.to/2Ilsfat

Of course my other plan was to pull the radio again and see if there is a usable 5v supply directly from the radio, I'm pretty sure that would eliminate the need for the isolator.

With the isolator installed all of my original 12vdc to USB adapters are working perfectly.

 

[rolo]

I have a Delco cassette head unit with remote CD player built March 18 2003 that does not have the 14 pin CD connector depicted in this tutorial. I was able to follow Tim Muckey's YouTube video and cut into the FM circuit for my Aux input. I used a Philmore chassis mount switching 3 conductor 3.5mm jack (part # 502J from Fry's instead of the Radio Shack jack since they aren't available locally anymore) which I was able to fit between the faceplate and faceplate circuit board without having to modify the board. I did cut the plastic screw post as shown in the OP and drill through the faceplate for access to the jack. No hot glue necessary since the circuit board keeps the jack in place. The major difference is that this ends up being a three wire installation instead of five since it's a mono source. I'm not an audiophile and primarily listen to podcasts so it suits my purposes.

Sorry for no pics, this was a chore given that I don't have a 'scope or a bench test rig set up and I just wanted to get it done. If I can find another radio of the same vintage at the junkyard I'll do another post documenting the mod since there doesn't seem to be anything out there and I have extra jacks. Here's Tim's video:

 

[ssbf1]

Great video... Nice change not to have a CD or cassette always running while using the new Aux port.

 

[AstroWill]

That would be a good option for mono, however I always have a cd in the player anyway.

 

[AstroWill]

I haven't been driving this van in a while, but I started it up today to let it fully warm up and move it around a bit. Plugged in my bluetooth adapter and connected to my phone to listen to some music while waiting and reading my email, still working great!

 

[SportsBoy]

Ok, I am hoping to do this but know almost nothing about electrical stuff - so I have some super basic questions.

Is 20 awg wire like this ok to use for the connections, and I can just use electrical tape to tidy the bundle up afterwards? https://www.amazon.com/Electronics-diff ... way&sr=8-7

Is there any way to not buy 10 of these? http://amzn.to/2q8LLhS

https://www.astrosafari.com/download/file.php?id=25169&t=1

So, basically the little 5 pin switch thingy needs the black and white IN on pins 1&3, the black and white OUT to where they were going originally (pins ?&?), and one wire for ground, making 5 wires total? Pins 1&3 are referring to where to put them on the 5 pin thingy, right?

What exactly is the ground to connect to that is shown in that photo? The end of the screw? Or just solder it to anything on there and it should be fine?

Thanks for the help! Really appreciate the writeup

 

[SportsBoy]

Any thoughts from those not as dumb as I?

 

[AstroWill]

Yes 20gauge wire will work.

You can buy the jacks individually from some places but often they sell the small stuff in packs. Could sell/give away the rest to the community.

Pins 1 and 3 in that picture are referring to the pins of the connector on the circuit board.

I posted the picture of the wiring for the jack because each of those could be different depending on what you buy. Once you get your jack, post an image of the jack and the diagram if you run into any issues.

I just grounded to the chassis of the radio.

 

[SportsBoy]

Ok, thank you!

I guess there will probably be a bit of explanation with the 5 pin connector that will help a bit too

 

[AstroWill]

NP. It's pretty simple, just goes inline with the left and right channels. Breaks the connection from the CD player when the plug connection is made (inserting plug into jack).

Good luck!

 

[AstroMonkey]

The board on my aux delco 09375905 looks different than yours. My 14 pin cd plug is flipped 180*
Will, may you please confirm if my wires to be cut would be the yellow arrow side 1 & 3?

p.s.Just curious, what is that block I labeled "different" on the left?

 

[AstroWill]

Should be easy to test, can pull the pin from the connector.

 

[AstroMonkey]

Me and anything wiring are like oil and water but TOOL made me do it!!!!

On my delco 09375905 w/CD board: E-8276A-1
Don't know how to test except by trial and error so i cut the black just like Will's radio - fail on mine.

I did more GOOGLING and someone suggested to check the CD player board to see it if mine was labeled.

Since my wires were both white im glad I went painfully slow and thought to mark up my L.CH wire BEFORE cutting and did one channel at a time.