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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
would anybody here like to share some information/diagrams about the pin out on the '87 astro ECM, and maybe the color coded wires?
i am in the process of installing a '95 LT1 in an 87 astro sport shorty.

there is no need for any info on the LT1, just schematics or diagrams of stuff like what i will need to keep my gauges working like the factory.
just wanted to sound and look professional about this swap. would it not be amazing that after initial start it runs till i turn the key off, maybe somewhere in the florida panhandle?
 

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WDMICKJR said:
keep my gauges working like the factory.
Another option would be that you could use a 1995 instrument gauge cluster , most of the time the newer clusters look nicer!

If you do wire your factory gauges up it should be pretty easy .
oil psi sending unit has a single wire!
coolant temp sending unit has a single wire!
Voltmeter ( how hard could it be to hook up that? just find which wire goes to ground and which is the positive
fuel gauge i believe is the purple wire from your fuel pump
I dont know how to hook up the speedometer , would have to look at the back of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i want to thank all you guys for the help.
i am using the '87's 700r4. a 95 4L60e came available during the time i got the power tune done from LT1pcmtuning.com and it has yet to arrive from there; holidays i suppose is the delay. yet the pcm is still ready for a 95 4L60e.

can i hook up (hard wire) the 95 pcm, blue connector, cavity 11, tan-blk wire to control the 700r4 TCC/tourque converter lock up? or do i use both cavity 6, brn wire and cavity 11?

VSS trouble codes are taken out/not valid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
again thanks.
CASEY, the '87 700r4 is cable speedo. 4 bolt tail shaft. I will keep it cable driven. even when the 4L60e comes avail. and thanks for the links. i intend to machine the 6 bolt tail shaft to accept the cable driven gears.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
cavity 11; it is a pin out location on the blue connector '95 pcm. just a thought for the 95 pcm to control 700r4 lockup.
no deal tho.
i will have to get an aftermarket converter lock up. it was just a thought. akin to i really dunno..
*****there is NO way the '95 pcm can control converter lock up on a '87 700r4 with out using VSS.****
am i correct?
 

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WDMICKJR said:
i will have to get an aftermarket converter lock up. it was just a thought. akin to i really dunno..
*****there is NO way the '95 pcm can control converter lock up on a '87 700r4 with out using VSS.****
am i correct?
The VSS does not control coverter clutch lock-up on a '954 4L60E.

On a '95 4L60E the TCC solenoid receives a power from the PCM only when the trans fluid is at or above the minimum temp (120*F, IIRC). The temp sensor bolted to the valve body (which is part of the pressure switch) 'tells' the PCM when the correct temp has been reached.

I'm not very familiar with the 700R4, but you could mount the '94 4L60E's temp sensor/pressure switch to the bottom of the 700R4's valve body, and provided you have a way to run the sensor wires, you'd be able to use the '95 PCM to activate the TCC solenoid. :think:

If you need some extra '94 or '95 4L60E parts to play around with, PM me. I picked up a '94 parts trans out of a G-van and now have my '95 4L60E stripped. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
VSS: i am using the dual output speedo. the ones used in the caprice cop cars that had 700r4 and cable radar. one output is cable driven for the radar. and the other output is for 4K pulse VSS that my PCM needs. (4,000 pulses per mile). ACDelco part number 231-201. GM 10456131. napa VSS-231.
the PCM will need the VSS for things like it could die coming off the freeway onto the off ramp, or simply die at a red light. PCM needs to know if the car is moving or stopped...even with a non electrical transmission. all my error codes for not using the 4L60e are made not valid in the programming/flash.

TCC: i installed a TCI 376600 lock up kit. the 700r4 also got a corvette servo and a B&M shift improver kit (B&M 70239). the servo i got did not include piston housing gasket nor a servo cover gasket. 2 o-ring type gaskets cost more than the servo. be specific and check. i am hard wiring my TCC control to lock up in 2-3-4 and normal operation and with out any lock up; simple single pole double throw toggle will fix that. also have a 12V small led light that shines when TCC is locked. the trans oil smelled burnt, yet i was pleased when i pulled the trans pan..it was clean <-- with all things considered.

i have had a set back and it took me days to figure this one out. the LT1 needs to be grounded. the PCM needs its own grounds too. good grounds. i went thru 2 new starters till i found the problem. i still have yet to call dbelectrical.com back and tell them it was my oversight.

i am near placing the wiring harness in the astro. i customized my own LT1 harness from the not so complete originals. i have gotten an education. there are some differences in the b-Body LT1 and the F-body's wiring harness. all the connections go to the same placement on sensors and all, but the wiring is different, in one of my observations. ladder diagrams at LT1swap.com (using the B-body) and shbox.com (using the F-body) you will see.

b-body LT1 will not fit in a astro with OUT relocating the A/C compressor, but the corvette (Y-body) will fit perfect for the corvette A/C and engine's accersories are on the drivers side and located up a little higher on the engine.

new world alternator.
new wal mart battery.. costs me 85 dollars and now they have the same battery for 75 dollars. go figure. i relocated that battery with a box next to the right rear wheel weel inside. and used 4/0 gauge wire. (welding cables, not 4 gauge). PCM is mounted vertical with a fab'd bracket where the original placement of the battery.
new delphi opti park. (insurance, akin to 20/20 hindsight)
professionally cleaned and rebuilt injectors..found 3 bad injectors and have had them replaced. $80 for 3.
jegs off road 2 1/2" to 3" of road Y-pipe..still needs to be fabed up cause it is not a direct fit, and comes with only one O2 bung. but i have lift and MIG for that.
27 gallon astro fuel tank. originally had a 17 gallon full of rust
new 94 roadmaster fuel pump fit directly in place of the 87 astro fuel pump sender.
new 16" super elec fan.
new LT1 injector pig tails.
new 255/70-15 cooper cobras GT. $100 ea w/ services traded.
new front brakes and rotors turned.
NAPA has connectors for your LT1 fuel line connections there at the fuel rails..napa #s 730-4926 (5/16") and 730-4927 (3/8')

engine oil cooler is not thru radiator on the 87 but was on the 94 B-body radiator, so i mounted one behind the grille. i opted for the stacked type oil cooler. i got hydodyne hydrualics to build me some engine oil lines. i am using the b-body oil cooler sandwich type thing that includes the little filter, that wil change tho to a true cooler oil line configuration. the 700r4 oil cooler does not go thru the radiator any longer even tho the astro radiator has provisions, i got a 6 tube and fin that mounts directly onto the 87 radiator.

i am now at plumbing the engine, heater hoses, water pump and radiator, power steering, and dropping the home made wiring harness in .. i believe i can use the original hi press side pwr steering hose and i will have problems mounting the LT1 type P/S container/resevoir- finding a place in the engine compartent that does look like 'deliverance'.

i got the van for $100. with title
i got the 90k LT1 for $800
still have spent nearly $2000 and plenty of questions and plenty of trips to the store.

me thinks it should, after fuel pressure comes to 42.5lbs, that it should crank right up. THIS WEEK. things i will let slide till it starts; O2 sensors, knock sensors
(b-body has 2), and i may have a problem with a TPS or some other sensor but it should start.

and i want to install mechanical oil pressure sender and guage and a mechanical heat/coolant sensor and guage.

still cant find all my wires going to the aldl for OBD1, cluster's volt, and oil and temperture circuits coming out the firewall, there near the brake booster and where a battery should be. but them items are last on my list.

take this in mind on the shift kit and TCC lockup.. a transmission with the pan off will drip ATF for days. even with mister bubble you will smell of burnt ATF for days...

PM me if you have any questions. it can be done cause i have nearly completed my project. i have found that it is not good (for me) to think i can do this or that in 10-15 minutes...nope if i am going to work on my project it has to be all day. my 10-15 minutes always found another trip to the parts store. i helped a friend put a LT1 in a s10 and it only took 3 days. this project has taken right at a year. money and social obligations have kept me away from doing what i want and can. but if you want to change your vavle body configuration in the transmission no one will want you around for a couple of days.

and of course of all things!!!..dont forget..everyting on the internet is true! NOT!!
billy
 
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