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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys and gals! Maybe you can help me with this one, cuz it has me stumped!

Our van is a 91, 2WD, with the stock V-6 (217K miles on engine, 4K on rebuilt transmission), and TBI.

When we first got the van, it was running very rough, but it had 6 year old gas in the tank and a blocked cat. It would take 20-30 seconds to start, and would only start with the gas pedal depressed about half way. You would have to hold the gas pedal in for a few minutes while it warmed up, and then it would run, roughly, with hesitations and lag, and a cloud of white water smoke coming out of the exhaust, even though it doesn't loose any coolant...probably from the old gas, since it smelled so bad!

The first thing I did was put all new plugs and wires in it, a new cap and rotor, and found a fried water temp sender wire (the one that goes to the guage on the dash)...and I siphoned out all the old gas and filled the tank with fresh hightest fuel. The dash gauge started working fine, but there was no change in the way it ran or started!

Next I went to the timing. Checking it with the brown wire disconnected, I noticed it was advanced about 3 degrees. I brought the timing back to 0 degrees, and the van would barely run! No power at all, VERY serious lag, and wanted to stall on the test drive every time we stopped at a light or stopsign. So I brought it back to 3 degrees and it ran like it did before.

With the doghouse off and the aircleaner removed, watching the fuel injectors when it would start, it would take about 20 seconds for fuel to even start to dribble from the injectors, and that is exactly what it was doing at idle, just dripping into the TBI, although the fan/cone pattern seemed ok when you gassed it. And the fuel pump was VERY loud, so that was the next thing I did:

I dropped the fuel tank and replaced the pump...and the pickup sock, which was no longer see-through, but varnished dark brown from sitting in that old gas. Back the tank went in, and then a new fuel filter.

The results then? The fuel would still take about 20 seconds to start flowing from the injectors, but this time it actually flowed in a nice cone, and then with the pedal depressed, a nice even strong cone on both sides. It still took 15-20 seconds to start, you had to push the pedal down about half way to get it to start, and let it warm up so it would idle without stalling. There was still some lag driving it, but not nearly as much.

It would still smoke at startup, water vapor smoke for the most part, although the old gas smell was gone. So, I'm thinking the cat must be blocked.

Next I eliminated the cat with a 2 1/4" straight pipe flared to 2 1/2 inches to fit over the head pipe, with a new cylindrical muffler with 2 1/4 inch inlet and outlet, and reused the stock tail pipe, although I had the muffler shop repair the end of it where it plugs into the muffler, and used universal hangers in the stock locations...the result? No more smoke at startup (except a puff of oil smoke when you first start it up...hey, it has 217K miles on it, so its just a little puff from the valve guides), no more lag at all, more power than I thought these things could have, and runs great! EXCEPT....it still starts hard! 15-20 seconds! At least now it will almost start after about 15 seconds without pushing down the pedal, put to actually start it, you have to push the pedal half way down...and you still have to hold it at a higher idle for a minute or so before it will idle without stalling. Once it warms up a little bit, the idle is smooth, and the van runs great. Observing the injectors again, it doesn't get any gas spraying out for that whole 15-20 seconds that it won't start, and then once the gas starts spraying, it starts right up (with the pedal held down a bit)!

So, in summary:

No more cat, a new muffler, fresh gas after flushing the tank, new fuel pump and pickup screen, new fuel filter, new plugs and wires, new cap and rotor, new air filter, and a burnt temp sender wire repaired...

The results?:

It runs awesome now...except it still takes 15-20 seconds to start! And it will only start if you depress the gas pedal about half way! If you turn the key, it will catch and want to fire up after 15-20 seconds, but it won't start without pushing the gas pedal down. And then you have to hold the pedal down for a minute or so to keep the idle higher until it warms up a little, or it will stall. After about a minute or so, you can take your foot off the pedal, and she idles smooth. And it has all sorts of power now! No more lag in acceleration, no more skipping...and I think I have to bring the timing back down to 0 degrees, because now it seems to be idling a bit too high...if you are in gear at a stopsign or light, she wants to keep going! The transmission wants to keep on keeping on, so you have to shift it to neutral at a light or else the whole van vibrates.

That said, any ideas on why she is starting so hard?

The fuel pattern from the injectors on the TBI look great and even on both sides...although again, I did notice that when I start it without the doghouse or air cleaner in place, fuel doesn't shoot out of the injectors right away...it takes 15-20 seconds for the injectors to start spraying, and when they start spraying is when the engine finally starts.

It almost seems to me that something is telling the computer not to supply fuel right away for some reason...does it sound like any sensors you know about? Maybe the computer is getting a false code, telling it that the engine is already warmed up? By the way, she starts right up when the engine is at full warm-up...if you drive it for a while and then shut it down, she'll start right back up...once it cools down again, its hard start time again!

Oh yeah, the fuel pump runs constantly, although the new pump is quiet...is it supposed to run constant, or is it supposed to reach a certain pressure and shut itself off?

My next step is to remove the TBI, take it apart and clean it up, and then reinstall it...but I don't really thing this is the problem, since it looks spotless inside down the throats. I'm still thinking that since the fuel isn't getting delivered for that 10-15 seconds, it has to be one of the sensors...any idea which one/ones would do this?

Help me troubleshoot this please...lol!

Kev
 

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The coolant temp. sensor has a lot to do with the cold start .It is possible that it could be faulty .It should have high resistance when cold and low when warm.You have to check resistance across the terminals .Approx 3500 ohms at 68 degrees and 240 ohms at 194 degrees , or maybe you could try to run a fuel system cleaner ,add seafoam to the gas tank.Another thought is maybe a bad fuel pressure regulator
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Dave! I will test the temp sender after the weekend. I'm also going to check the ignition control module, since someone else said it may be that, since it also controls activation of the fuel injectors.

Any idea if the fuel pump is supposed to run constant, or is it supposed to reach a certain pressure and shut itself down?

And I am in Florida, where the ambient air temps right now are between 60 degrees and 80 degrees. I know a lot of you are up north right now where temps are freezing, so I wanted to make sure you knew it wasn't as cold here so you can help me troubleshoot this beastie!

Thanks again, and please everyone, keep the replies rolling so I can get Wart the Astro running reliably!

Kev
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I found another possibilty, although it seems too painfully obvious, and I have no idea if it this could be it: On the starter itself, there is a skinny wire that looks like it is supposed to go to one of the starter terminals, but it is broken off and hanging right near the starter. Could it be some sort of sensor wire that tells the computer to start the injectors when the starter is turning over? I'm only thinking it a possibility because of my symptoms, and because the starter still turns on with no problem when you turn the key, even with that wire disconnected. Any ideas on that one?

Kev
 

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According to a wiring diagram there are two wires . The large one from the battery and smaller one from the ignition switch. Maybe the wire is from something else ? You should hear the pump prime for a couple seconds when you first turn the key to on and should hear it at the tank with engine running and thats it as far as I know.
 

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Is it a red wire? If so, that's a fusible link that has burned through. It means your alternator is not charging the battery. If it's big and black it's the main starter power, if it's purple it's the starter wire. Have you still got dripping on your injectors? If you go to exactly half throttle and it starts, I don't know what to tell you hwoever if you go past half throttle and it starts you're getting too much fuel, which may be an atomization issue. To make a long story short past about half throttle is flood clear mode, which shuts your fuel off entirely.

ED:you may try another fuel pump relay, if you have a bad one it will still start because it will go through the oil pressure safety switch after oil pressure builds up. Just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I changed the oil today to Castrol 10-W40, put in Slick 50, changed the filter (Fram), and changed the oil pressure sending unit...and voila! It ALMOST starts right up!...lol

If I turn the key to ON without trying to start it until the seatbelt light goes off (the pump runs in the background) and then turn it to start for 3 seconds, turn it back to on, and then back to start, it fires right up, without giving it any gas, and idles smoothly.

If I skip the double key turning, it takes about 5-7 seconds of holding the key on start, and then she'll fire right up without giving it any gas.

Hey, its a major improvement! Still not perfect, but getting better!

Kev
 

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The next time you change the oil I wouldn't use 10w40.It's not really recommended anymore .I would use a 10 w30.Personally I would never use slick 50 in my engine .It will do absolutely nothing for the engine. Fram is actually one of the worst oil filters out there.The way it is constructed and the amount of filter media is not as good as other filters .Even the super tech filters from wal mart are better which I sometimes use .
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
All of the work I did so far didn't entirely solve the problem: The Astro starts now in 5-10 seconds instead of 30...So my guess is the fuel pressure regulator...it doesn't seem to be holding fuel pressure when you shut it down, and acts like you are repriming the lines when starting it up. Guess I'll have to pull the TBI, clean and rebuild it, replace the fuel pressure regulator, and then replace all the electronics like the TPS before putting back in the TBI...I'll let you know how it goes!

Kev
 

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OK heres my :2: ... I have a 87 with a 305 TBI and it starts the same way...takes about 20-30 seconds to start it and i can see its not pumping any fuel for the first 10-15 seconds of cranking... but it only starts like this if it sits like overnight...I bought one of those code readers on e-bay for $6 and its telling me that im getting codes 15 &23 which is problems with the coolant temp sensor (low) and also the intake air temp is excessively low...I would like to get this problem resolved just to save on the life of my starter and not to mention its reeaaalllyyy annoying :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: ...It does sorta make sense because my engine didnt run like that in the donor car and when i put it in the van i accidentaly broke the H2O sensor so i used the one from the v-6...Its probably bad because the v-6 ran like crap also. It sounds like alot of owners have had similar problems like yours and mine hopefully between the 2 of us we can eliminate this starter melting ordeal...good luck :confused:
 

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Thats exactly what happens with low fuel pressure. Either the regulator isn't letting the pump build enough pressure, the fuel pump is weak, or the hose from the pump to the top of the tank is leaking inside the tank. Put a gauge on it and see what the fuel pressure is doing.
 
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