Well gang the '99 Astro I bought has basically named itself Money Pit. Only 130k on it when purchased for 750$, and it only had one leak and the rust is not bad at all for Missouri. "How bad could it be?", I thought. :laughing-rolling: I need it for work, I install Elfa shelving systems mostly, so I would like to get/keep it shipshape.
So far:
New windshield for inspection
4 tires
battery
MAF
Front rotors/bearings/pads
Skip White Distributor, smartest move I've made yet what a difference and how are these things only $50?
Ebay aluminum radiator that someone on here recommended
a rear brake line that I paid a shop to quarter-*** for me (never again!)
multiple oil changes, AT filter/fluid
Blower motor and resistor changed on lunch break Wednesday because I was COLD. Some dremeling of airbox assembly req'd to fit new resistor :/
This week took over the parent's garage and replaced the original? shocks with some KYB monomax. Truck rides better, still needs front end work, but there is now bad clunk coming from the rear shocks so I suppose I need to check the mounting bolts for tightness? Not that I have a torque wrench (it's on the list) but what are the specs on these? Anything else I should be checking, and does everything look right to you fine people? No bushings on the side of the KYB's like other shocks, am I supposed to supply my own?
Also there appears to be some hillbilly engineering going on under the driver's side leaf spring here, a piece of rubber has been used as a shim. I suppose this will cost me more money/time :banghead: , what's the prognosis for correcting this?
Notes on the front: tried the 15mm deep well socket on the top nuts and rocked to break, but both of them snapped off just above the nut for me
Before I put the sawzall to the pistons I thought I might try finesse one more time so got out my vise grips and managed to get a good enough hold on both sides to remove the nuts :banana: One side I used the needlenose VG's and the other side needed 10WR's so just FYI it works at least sometimes, and sure is easy actually less work than busting the threaded shaft was for me.
Happy weekends, and may all your nuts bust easily :icon-wink:
So far:
New windshield for inspection
4 tires
battery
MAF
Front rotors/bearings/pads
Skip White Distributor, smartest move I've made yet what a difference and how are these things only $50?
Ebay aluminum radiator that someone on here recommended
a rear brake line that I paid a shop to quarter-*** for me (never again!)
multiple oil changes, AT filter/fluid
Blower motor and resistor changed on lunch break Wednesday because I was COLD. Some dremeling of airbox assembly req'd to fit new resistor :/
This week took over the parent's garage and replaced the original? shocks with some KYB monomax. Truck rides better, still needs front end work, but there is now bad clunk coming from the rear shocks so I suppose I need to check the mounting bolts for tightness? Not that I have a torque wrench (it's on the list) but what are the specs on these? Anything else I should be checking, and does everything look right to you fine people? No bushings on the side of the KYB's like other shocks, am I supposed to supply my own?
Also there appears to be some hillbilly engineering going on under the driver's side leaf spring here, a piece of rubber has been used as a shim. I suppose this will cost me more money/time :banghead: , what's the prognosis for correcting this?
Notes on the front: tried the 15mm deep well socket on the top nuts and rocked to break, but both of them snapped off just above the nut for me
Before I put the sawzall to the pistons I thought I might try finesse one more time so got out my vise grips and managed to get a good enough hold on both sides to remove the nuts :banana: One side I used the needlenose VG's and the other side needed 10WR's so just FYI it works at least sometimes, and sure is easy actually less work than busting the threaded shaft was for me.Happy weekends, and may all your nuts bust easily :icon-wink:
