99 SAFARI 2WD DRIVER BUILD

chucksurette said:

Nice Safari!
I've got a 2wd 98 that got AF in the oil. Bearings didn't last long after that...

I'm interested to hear about the mods that you've done - (rear sway bar, vette servo etc...) as mine will be coming apart this spring for a new engine/tranny. Maybe the heater core, now that I read your post...

Good luck with the manifold. Are those bolts 1 time stretch like the head bolts?

Click to expand...

Regarding the intake manifold. I am reading the vortecs have had gasket issues at times. This may have been what led up to coolant issues, whilst combined with the issues of the RED "extended life coolant" they stopped making. I noticed upon removal that I have rust colored stains in my fairly new radiator hoses already.

Once my coolant issues started they didn't stop until this intake gasket popped.

Here's a post on a Vortec Head thread I found about gaskets. It's from 2006...
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from:
http://nastyz28.com/threads/vortec-cyli ... ost-551372
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I think it's interesting that the GM intake bolts come with thread sealer on them already. Do you think that stuff should be adequate by itself?

From what I have found I would have to agree that the MS98000T and GM bolts (12550027) are the way to go. I have seen a lot of people that have complained about intake leaks on their trucks that use vortec heads.

Apparently there was a GM service bulletin and GM has new gaskets that help seal better (GM# 89017465).

Technical Note: This gasket requires the use of GM attachment bolt P/N 12550027 because the bolt has a ball design on the end that seats in the head so it will not crush the intake manifold gasket.

I think the MS98000T is Fel-Pro's vesion of this gasket.

Fel-Pro PermaDryPlus Valve Cover Gaskets feature:

* Aluminized steel carrier
* Fluoroelastomeric coating
* Edge-molded seals
* Sealing beads
* Self-centering torque-limiters

FEL-PRO HAS INTRODUCED AN ADVANCED PERMADRYPLUS
REPLACEMENT INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKET DESIGNED TO SOLVE CHRONIC COOLANT LEAKAGE ISSUES FACING SOME FOURTEEN MILLION GM LIGHT TRUCKS AND SUV'S WITH 5.0L AND 5.7L ENGINES MANUFACTURED FROM 1996 THROUGH 2002. THIS TIME SAVING NEW SET CONTAINS ALL THE PREMIUM TECHNOLOGIES NEEDED TO COMPLETE AN INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKET REPAIR, INCLUDING PERMADRYPLUS LOWER MANIFOLD GASKETS, UPPER MANIFOLD GASKETS AND AN ADVANCED PERMADRY VALVE COVER GASKET.

IT APPEARS THAT ON MANY OF THESE ENGINES, THE USE OF CONVENTIONAL PLASTIC-AND-RUBBER GASKETS IN COMBINATION WITH THE MORE AGGRESSIVE 'OAT' (ORGANIC ACID TECHNOLOGY) ENGINE COOLANTS HAS CAUSED A SIGNIFICANT NUMER OF SEALING- RELATED ISSUES.

Glorious original motor that still runs ok. Minor "chevy ticking" ... probably needs a distributor that thing is squeaking... I changed the oil religiously and always used AC Delco PF52 filters...usually Castrol 10/40...Yes I am thinking of pulling the whole thing and rebuilding it. I will see how it goes tearing this stuff off and getting the intake off.

Hopefully this RV cooler kept the trans cool. 150k on trans heavy duty rebuild.


Taking stuff off the front. Need to remove the AC condenser


Then make some plates before cutting the upper core support out. I think I will drill the holes in the plates and then do the cutting. The cuts will probably be as wide as the edges of the condenser.

If you can locate a 1st gen van in a salvage yard you can take the to core support off it and use it in place of the section you cut off as it is a bolt on item. see the picture of a 1st gen where it unbolts and you can see how you could modify yours to accept the earlier version to make it easier.

JD_GM said:

Then make some plates before cutting the upper core support out. I think I will drill the holes in the plates and then do the cutting..

Click to expand...

Perfect! It's pretty basic, and even better when done right!

Even on my Gen 1.. I still permanently removed these tabs..
(this was actually done for a radiator upgrade.. but good for V8 swaps too)

JD_GM said:

I think I will drill the holes in the plates and then do the cutting..

Click to expand...

Good plan! Fit the brace first.. then cut!

Thanks for the info guys looks good. Here's the plates but I am also going to add a front piece which will be like a U-cup and I will weld it all to the center so it pushes onto the side pieces and then bolts only on the sides.
I'll post pics when I get to that but I think you know what I mean.

My cut lines for the plasma cutter


fiber blanket to protect stuff

cut out and easier to reach engine!

some more hoses off, broke the heater valve, the plastic was brittle

More stuff off.

I can remove the EGR hose going down to the manifold header and also plate off the EGR valve, correct?

I will have it turned off in the tune. I may replace the lower intake with a 2002(?) and newer...

Now it looks like a motor! hmmmmm....350?

I'd love to... but I need to get a solid van again as soon as I can. I will do the CPI cam in this, open the bowls up in the heads and maybe do headers. Was thinking of the Pacesetter set.

I am definitely going to have the exhaust crossover redone that thing looks restrictive as all heck.

Lets do some pics updates!

Motor coming out (a few months ago)

The mounting plate for the engine stand. The stand was given to me by my friend Rick who passed away years ago, his dad home built it and he had a mopar 440 on it with a blower so I think it will hold this engine. The stand has had a few engines on it including a mopar 318 I built with swirl port heads, also a Toyota 22RE






The middle cylinder here had some water in the cylinder and mild rust, the intake gasket had leaked. Good thing I decided to tear it down instead of just do the intake gasket.

Block bored .030 over


I have to look up which part # these are, we chose them from a 350 they have the one sided valve reliefs and are a little higher compression than stock, they are cast with the coated skirts




The stock rods with pressed pins were resized with ARP rod bolts

The exhaust was more important to get more flow from what I researched so I asked Ken to cut the seats open to 1.60 inch (stock 1.50) and unshroud the seats with a nice multi angle valve job. He cut way down into the openings and I plan on running a nice big long Y pipe 2.25" or maybe 2.5" into the 3" exhaust.


The intake is stock 1.94 but also similar work on the valve seats and also a new set of valves.

We considered going to 2.02 intakes but they were really close in the middle between them and decided to leave them stock.


The tops of the guides and spring seats were cut down to allow the right valve height and HD Erson springs were used with the original retainers.

The guides themselves were sleeved with iron sleeves and then new PC seals.

The rocker arm studs will be new screw in adjustable studs that will work with the stamped and self aligning 1.6 rocker arms to get some more lift from the '92-'95 CPI cam.

Old stock cam on right is stock '99 Vortec

You can see the obvious difference in duration and lift!

New stock cam on left is Sealed Power CS1537 for 92-95 "CPI"

specs as follows:
1992-'95 VIN "W" WITH BALANCE SHAFT: The premium high output engine came with central fuel injection, a balance shaft and a better cam starting in '92. They are comparable grinds so most rebuilders are interchanging them.

10144047
10241693

Opens : -17 BTC/39 BBC
Closes : 45 ABC/-11 ATC
Duration : 208/208
Opens : 13 BTC/70 BBC
Closes : 84 ABC/24 ATC
Duration : 277/274
Cam Lift : .288/.293
Gross Valve Lift : .432/.439 (w/ 1.6 rockers----.460/.468)
Center Line C/L : 121/115
Rocker Arm Ratio : 1.5/1.5
Valve Lash Clearance : HYD/ROLLER

(Cross referenced from Mellings OE equipment guide)

A E CLEVITE 1668
DANA/CLEVITE 229-2286
ENGINE POWER COMPONENT EPC-4613A
GENERAL MOTORS 10144047
SEALED POWER/FEDERAL MOG CS-1537

data here:
http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.ph ... tes.95401/