[MarkZ28]

Ok, just got a 99 Safari van(same as Astro) and got it home. Tried to start it later and it would run for a bit right after the key was turned to start and die after the key is released. Thought maybe it had a bad cap and rotor, went ahead and put new ones on which I always do a tune up on any used car I get anyway. Still does the same thing. Checked for spark, gets a good hot spark while cranking. Tried spraying carb cleaner in the intake, doesnt make a difference. Also wont start at all with the pedal moved off idle when cranking. Checked codes, no codes stored. Fuel pressure is at 60 psi at turning on key and while cranking , recomended pressure is 55-60 so thats ok. Has a new pump in it now also. It ran fine driving it home but did take a bit to start and did stall a couple times but did crank back up.
I know they have a problem with fuel pressure regulators leaking but the pressure stays up with the pump off. Dont see any obvious vacuum leaks, plus it wouldnt start at idle either if there was a big one. I hate computer controlled crap.
:screaming:
What can I be missing? Got spark, have fuel pressure, no obvious leaks, no codes set.

 

[Mr_Bowtie]

First off WELCOME to the site! :rockon:

Does the Van start nice when its bone cold?
Could it be moisture its that time of the year for moisture to cause problems(well at least around here with the rain).

 

[sfeaver]

Is the Security light flashing?

 

[MarkZ28]

No lights flashing, dont think it even has a security system on it, at least not aftermarket. I didnt get the remotes with the van if it had them stock. It ran and started fine at first though. It had rained a lot the day it died but the distributor was dry(replaced it anyway along with rotor) so that cant be it. Plug wires are dry to, I do have new ones and plugs to put in but not looking forward to that job yet, lol. Temp doesnt make a difference, but its still in the mid 80's here and about the same as when I got it last week.

 

[astro355]

The next time it does it, try spray some starter fluid/propane in the intake ductwork and post results.

 

[MarkZ28]

I did spray carb cleaner in the intake, even took the MAF opff and sprayed a bunch into the throttle body, made no difference. Do the ignition switches go bad and cause a no start condition, like if theres a lose connection that is dead in the "on" position?

 

[Big_kid]

Is your exhaust kinked/blocked/damaged? Catalytic converter plugged up(did you drive it home)? If you have fuel/air mix, compression, and properly timed spark it should run.

What has me stumped is that it has spark and fuel, and will run while the key is turned, but it won't run on carb cleaner. To me, that practically rules out a fuel delivery problem.

Have you checked or replaced the spark plugs that are currently IN the engine? (I've had people test for spark with a good plug, then switch the wire back to an installed plug that was fouled) I've fouled out a set of new plugs in the driveway before, getting 0 miles before they were trash.

Keep us up to date on your progress, and welcome aboard!
:chevy:

 

[MarkZ28]

Its not the cat or exhaust, it ran fine with good power the day i got it. When it does start it runs smooth with no black smoke so its not flooded out or has fouled plugs. I am going to replace them and the wires to complete the tune up anyway though. Its like the key is turned off, in start position it runs but as soon as I let the key go to "run" position it dies. Im geussing ignition switch or wiring somewhere. May swap in anoither distributor from a known running Vortec 4.3 to rule out the igniton module/pick up coil. Also have extra sensors that I may swap around. Cant do it today due to the rain though.

 

[webcat]

check your fuses
you could try to bypass the ignition switch
Get you a thick guage long wire , mount one end to positive side of the battery and touch the other end to the big pink wire by the ignition , if ign power does'nt come on just keep moving along the big pink wire touching it in different places until it powers up!!!

heres a link that will show you how to bypass passlock II
viewtopic.php?f=76&t=1861&p=10643&hilit=remote+start#p10601

You could do a compression check to see if its worth giving a tuneup!
screw the tester in the spark plug hole and then follow directions

 

[Big_kid]

... in start position it runs but as soon as I let the key go to "run" position it dies. Im geussing ignition switch or wiring somewhere...

That said, I'd look at the switch, or a failsafe device- do these vans have a cutoff at low/no oil pressure(like the old Vegas did)?

 

[astro355]

Yes they do. But it would affect the fuel pressure and the OP already said that fuel pressure is good.

 

[Mr_Bowtie]

So, how does it run once it is running?
EGR valve can cause stalling issues and hard starts especially once warmed up. Might be worth taking off and cleaning out and re-installing with a "Clean Screan GM Universal EGR Gasket" that can be found in the "HELP" section at Autozone for $5. Its a wild shot, but you never know til you inspect it.

 

[MarkZ28]

I will check out the wire bypass thing, havent had time to even look at it for the last week and wont get to until Monday at the earliest. I will check out the EGR valve once I get it running, but the engine will still start with a bad one just not run very well, or at least start and run with the throttle opened up some. If the bypass wire trick works I will run a relay to bypass the stupid computer chip thing instead of paying a lot to make it work.

 

[$uperJoe]

im not sure of the year difference in vans but someone will help me here. on the older style bodies(pre96 i believe) the ignition key in the column actually turns a rod that pushes the switch slides up and down farther down the column by the brake switch. this slide switch has an adjustment with oblong holes. if its not exactly right some of the features of the key will not work. usually over the years it will slide a bit down, from being pushed by the key every time you start it, and then the accessories will not work(turn key backward from off) yours may have slipped up and the key is not holding the correct place on the switch anymore. when i switched columns i moved mine less than 1/8th inch and the van was dead. took forever to find the culprit. since you say it will die after the key is released maybe your switch is just out of line. also i dont know the switch style on the 99 but this happened on my 93 and 89 silverado as well. just a thought

 

[MarkZ28]

I am familiar with the switch, had to replace on on a car before. The weird thing is that normally if you crank an engine over with the throttle opened it would start but at a higher rpm of course. My van only starts(and then dies) when the throttle is closed but wont even try to start at anything above closed throttle. Its not flooding out and theres no other reason I can find or think of to make it do that other than a sensor or similar that doesnt set a code, yet.

 

[astro355]

Did you check for codes? I thought this was already asked but didn't see it. And sometimes it will store a code without turning on the SES so you would have to use a code reader.

And this isn't an issue with the alignment of the ignition switch. If it was out of alignment, the van would not turn over at all. The OP has stated that the engine turns over, just doesn't start.

 

[MarkZ28]

No codes at all. Even put another better battery in the van, no difference. Ran a hot wire to the positive side of the coil to bypass the ignition switch, still does the same thing. Also, correction on my previous post, it does start with the throttle above idle. Would an ignition module do this? I know its getting fuel ok, when it runs for the short time it does, it runs smooth.

 

[MarkZ28]

Follow up. Still not running. Even put on another ignition module and it does the same thing. Only thing else would be the sensor in the distributor and its probably not cheap to get. If I do get it running its for sale.