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Echo said:
Ok so... lets say I used two layers of raammat in my astro.

In areas with ridges like the floor... do I put down some sort of filler first to make it flat, or follow the floor contours?

Next layer on the floor, wood or something between like jute mat?

What about those "sound deadening tiles" ? Do I need those or just the mat and foam for the nooks and crannies?

Now... the walls amd cieling. After the mat is hung, can I put a layer of 1/8 ply for rigidity then carpet?

Im talking about a cargo with bare steel walls here.
In the 80's I used Floor Leveler, it's a concrete based mud that pours on a floor seeking its own level, usually used for small dips or gouges. Thing is it cracks when applied too thick and you need to use it in layers.

I took care of most of the cracking issues (still had some hair line cracks, but that doesn't matter with any floor covering over it) by cutting strips of an old cotton sheet and laying it with each application between the ribs. I'm sure you could use jute, plain canvas or cheese cloth as well. It gets as hard as a rock.

My opinion is that this helped a lot with noise and insulation, but I have no idea of any R value or db reduction as it was done to level the floor in a Dodge cargo van that was customized, and it worked well. Plywood went over that, then carpet pad and carpet. All I can say is that I drove the van as I did the layers, used it and I could tell a big difference after a couple layers, I think I did 4 layers and it was quiet. When done it was quieter than a Caddy.

Just say'n :)
 

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No, that doesn't work well at all. It doesn't have enough mass to stop panels from resonating, unless you put it on like 1/2" thick.

Sound deadening is a lot of work if you want to do it right. Check out the link to my build thread in my signature, mine sounded like a bank vault when I was done with it! :D
 

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I have been debating where to put this post and adding it here might work. I removed the fiberglass insert from an engine cover at a pic and pull ($6) and put it on top of my current one. I used an oscillating saw to trim it down at the top corners near the bolts that secure the dog house. I reshaped the clips with pliers from flat to accommodate the added thickness and in one pic I have reshaped one side of a clip. I used aluminum tape to cover the edges and I am happy with the sound reduction. I also cut up a rubber floor mat and placed some 4" wide pieces under the carpet and up along the seam where the doghouse meets the floor. Overall it was worth the time and money. I used to have pretty loud engine noise when I downshifted to second gear going over mountain passes and now it is much quieter, I think I need to add tach now.
If an admistrator wants to move this to a different sub forum that is fine with me.
 

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I added a second fiberglass insert to my current doghouse. I used only the insert which then made the heat/sound reducing layer twice the thickness. It didn't remove all the engine noise but it did reduce it. The insert aren't glued in place, they are held by four clips and since the clips now had to hold two layers I had to bend the ends to accommodate the additional thickness of the second layer. I'm not sure if this helps explain it and it may not be worth the work to most owners.
 

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Correct. Wasn't too hard and the clips just pull off. I was looking over a trashed Astro and decided on a whim to pull the insulation off the doghouse and see how it would work. It was an improvement but I also think the rubber floor mat I cut into strips and placed under the carpet did a lot for sound reduction and was cheap and easy.
 

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So my 2 cents on deadening is I just did peel n seal on my front doors. I did the outer skin as well as the inner skin.
Van is WAY quieter with just the doors done. I want to do the floor & other areas but haven't yet. It is very worth the effort to do the doors.
 
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