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remove the rivets and clean the entire metal "lip" really well. after cleaning, do any bending to be sure it is as straight as possible. IMO, Steele's replacement is BETTER than original, because it has a groove molded into it that slips completely onto the 90 degree lip.

it doesn't take much adhesive to hold it in place on the lip, but it's very important you use enough to make a good seal under the top leading edge and around the hinge cutouts.
Thanks Augiedog.
I'm trying to decide how to remove the 7 rivets, Dremel cutoff wheel or drill?
I expect that the rivet holes will need to be filled in before installing the seal.
Doing this today so I'll post the results here when it's done.
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'95 Astro AWD Hi-Top Conversion
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Thanks Augiedog.
I'm trying to decide how to remove the 7 rivets, Dremel cutoff wheel or drill?
I expect that the rivet holes will need to be filled in before installing the seal.
Doing this today so I'll post the results here when it's done.
View attachment 287728
just drill them out (there's an air-gap behind it, and matching dimples in the body, so just be careful with the bit and you're fine) and make sure the surface is smooth. no need for filler. the new rubber drip rail will COMPLETELY cover that lip. this is a super easy job, except for clean-up. don't make it more difficult than it has to be, like GM engineers did with the original :rolleyes:
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this was my dry-run test-fit, the extrusion fits like a glove. this was the first version from SRP, the final version is longer with an angle cut at each end, and the large roll is much less prominent. the drip rail is NOT a seal, but a gutter that sheds the water to each end, where it drips down and around the liftgate & door seals, and out under the doors at the bottom.
 
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