No idea on why, but you could just knock that stud out and put a longer stud or a bolt in it with a spacer.
Are rubbers really necessary? 22-1195hd dilemma…
So, I bought the 22-1195HD spring pack last week. (What did you think this was about?)
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The SD Springs site, and a couple others say “reuse rubber” in their write up…. The stock spring pack is about 1 9/16” (>2” with the rubbers)…. The 22-1195HD is 1 15/6”.
(almost 2” with rubbers, here is 2 1/4” with just one)….
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Here is how it fits in the factory clam shell without the rubbers…. Barely closes without any “protection”…. No way would it close with both isolators stacked in there…
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The handling is much improved… the original spring pack was so worn that shackles on the highest setting just leveled the van.. i know most vans / trucks don’t use isolators, and can add spacers to make the clamshells close more evenly….
Clearly I have too much ‘girth’ to use the two rubbers (isolators) with the new springs…. I could remove the overload spring, but what is the point of that?
Can anyone figure out why they say “reuse rubbers”? Any really good arguments for putting them back on?
The SD Springs site, and a couple others say “reuse rubber” in their write up…. The stock spring pack is about 1 9/16” (>2” with the rubbers)…. The 22-1195HD is 1 15/6”.
(almost 2” with rubbers, here is 2 1/4” with just one)….
Here is how it fits in the factory clam shell without the rubbers…. Barely closes without any “protection”…. No way would it close with both isolators stacked in there…
The handling is much improved… the original spring pack was so worn that shackles on the highest setting just leveled the van.. i know most vans / trucks don’t use isolators, and can add spacers to make the clamshells close more evenly….
Clearly I have too much ‘girth’ to use the two rubbers (isolators) with the new springs…. I could remove the overload spring, but what is the point of that?
Can anyone figure out why they say “reuse rubbers”? Any really good arguments for putting them back on?
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Took the clamshells back apart, and messed around with different combinations.
With both rubber isolators in, there was just about an inch of gap…. The isolators are not that thick, but they were compressed by the old springs in slightly different places…. Drawing them together with a clamp I was able to get the gap to close… but it was still too wide for my liking. It is important to note that the fit of the clamshells is tapered…. They clamp down and lock the springs in to prevent lateral movement as they close.
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Removing the top isolator and experimenting with different combinations of washers I found I could get 3 M15 washers in with the one isolator, the clam shell centered (not pulling to one side of the other) and ~150# of torque.
![Automotive tire Wood Gear Motor vehicle Coil spring]()
It is all tied together nicely now, I am happy with the fit and after driving for a couple hundred miles (including some trail work) nothing shifted.
With both rubber isolators in, there was just about an inch of gap…. The isolators are not that thick, but they were compressed by the old springs in slightly different places…. Drawing them together with a clamp I was able to get the gap to close… but it was still too wide for my liking. It is important to note that the fit of the clamshells is tapered…. They clamp down and lock the springs in to prevent lateral movement as they close.
Removing the top isolator and experimenting with different combinations of washers I found I could get 3 M15 washers in with the one isolator, the clam shell centered (not pulling to one side of the other) and ~150# of torque.
It is all tied together nicely now, I am happy with the fit and after driving for a couple hundred miles (including some trail work) nothing shifted.
One other thing…. There is a fair amount of “adjustment” in the leaf spring bolt to the perch and the opening in the top of the clamshell…. Maybe 3/8”.
The isolators have a centering effect on this, and axle alignment is an important part of doing this job.
the bottom isolator has a pocket for the nut…. (Note also, the bolt in the 22-1195hd is too long, and has to be cut to fit in the bottom of the pocket in the spring perch).
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the top isolator has a bigger ‘hump’ for the top of the spring bolt;
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The isolators have a centering effect on this, and axle alignment is an important part of doing this job.
the bottom isolator has a pocket for the nut…. (Note also, the bolt in the 22-1195hd is too long, and has to be cut to fit in the bottom of the pocket in the spring perch).
the top isolator has a bigger ‘hump’ for the top of the spring bolt;
As noted, the bolt that these springs come with is too long to seat in the spring perch on our axle. It needs to be trimmed down.. you can see the difference between them in this picture;
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