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My buddy has a '97 Astro Van. His back doors won't stay open. I figure it's probably relatively easy to fix right? Just buy the part that holds the doors open, unbolt old, bolt on new, done deal? If it is that easy, what is the part or parts that I'd need to do this repair?
 

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When I bought Grumpy the doors wouldn't stay open either. The PO had disconnected the door holder/limiter arms in order to open the doors 180° and the arms wound up being pushed into the door. The arms are held to the body by a pin and spring clip that you have to slide the end of the arm past. Hopefully like Grumpy, it's just a matter of looking into the hole in the door to see if the arms are present, fishing them out, and reconnecting them.
 

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I think this is a weak point on the Astros. Mine won't stay open very well either. The one I used to drive at work actually caught a breeze and nailed me in the back. It got to where I used a bungee cord to hold it open.

If you disconnect the detents to open the doors fully, make sure your hinges still have the little plastic pieces in the holes on the outside. They keep the doors from hitting the tail lights & getting creases.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Perhaps I wasn't clear. The part that is supposed to hold the doors open ARE present, and attached. They just don't work. My buddy uses a 2x4 wedged in there to keep them open. It sucks when the 2x4 falls on your head though.
 

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yeah, ive got barn doors on the back of mine.

same thing w/ the doors, the arms to limit travel past 90º i popped one of em off, and it fell into the door.
i removed both of them from both doors (so i dont loose em while not in use) and ive run into the problem with the doors shutting on me.
hill, a light wind, etc all can cause the doors to close. (one day i lost my eggs!)

ive used old shoes in the past and wedged them between the door and the shell to keep the doors open, above and clear of the tail light.
too bad the hinges are free, and mine are greased up.
 

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l008com said:
Perhaps I wasn't clear. The part that is supposed to hold the doors open ARE present, and attached. They just don't work. My buddy uses a 2x4 wedged in there to keep them open. It sucks when the 2x4 falls on your head though.
Wait, the 2x4 falls on your head? Um, huh? Why would that happen? Sounds like you holding up a dutch door, not holding open a barn door. Pics please...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
ihatemybike said:
l008com said:
Perhaps I wasn't clear. The part that is supposed to hold the doors open ARE present, and attached. They just don't work. My buddy uses a 2x4 wedged in there to keep them open. It sucks when the 2x4 falls on your head though.
Wait, the 2x4 falls on your head? Um, huh? Why would that happen? Sounds like you holding up a dutch door, not holding open a barn door. Pics please...
I have no pics. There are two side by side doors. One opens left, one opens right. Sounds exactly like what you all have been talking about. You wedge a 2x4 between the top of the 2 doors, and you happen to bump one of the doors and the 2x4 falls on your head and then the door closes on you.

So no one makes an aftermarket door stop replacement, one that would hold the doors in place much much firmer than the factory system?
 

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OK, that make more sense. What about shoving a wedge in each door jam instead of overhead between the doors?

I've never known the stock mechanism to wear out. I'll look later and see if there is any way to adjust it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ihatemybike said:
OK, that make more sense. What about shoving a wedge in each door jam instead of overhead between the doors?

I've never known the stock mechanism to wear out. I'll look later and see if there is any way to adjust it.
Any luck?

Anyone know what you call this part? I want to look it up online but I'm not sure what you'd call it.
 

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Hi l008com

Is their any reason why you couldn't pull those locking sliders out of the door and modify those ones? It wouldn't take that much effort to pull them out. It would save some money as well. Just a thought.:)
 

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Alright, here's your answer.

I just swapped the doors off my 90 for some doors I got of an 88. The PO of my van had lost a few parts, and I made sure to retrieve them with the donor doors.

The previous posters are correct about the little arms falling into the inside of the doors, if you already have them, then good.

the part that you haven't heard yet, is that there are two little rollers that go in the mechanism that the arm slides into. You should grab a flashlight, and look into the door side of the mechanism (piece 19 in the above drawing)... do you see a little roller on the top of the arm, and on the bottom? I'll bet not.

I don't know where to get them, I already had an extra 1 1/2 sets. I will say that on the donor doors, the arms had slipped into the door, and those little rollers did too (check all the cracks and corners, those doors are labyrinths)

Hope this helps!
 

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Inside the door mechanism (where the arm slides into the door) there should be two little rollers, about 1/4 or 5/16 in diameter, and the width of the slot. They have a tendency to pop out when the arms are not attatched to the pivots on the chassis. You might cross your fingers, pull off the door skin, and look down in the door for those rollers (there are alot of hidden little nooks in there, so look carefully). Pull the arm out from the inside, re-install the rollers, and re-insert the arm, being careful not to dislodge the rollers. They are nylon (number 6 I believe) you could use a thicker roller (nylon or similar) or possibly, you could use the same size or slightly smaller metal rods to make the door more difficult to accidentally shut. I'll try to measure mine, next time I'm in there (should be tomorrow or next day).

Hope it helps, and good luck.

PS. I'm going to try and fabricate a double stop arm, so I can open the doors straight back (stock/90 degrees) or ~120 degrees.
 

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I know it's been a while since this thread has been replied to, but I wanted to mention that the part that keeps the rear dutch doors (or barn doors as some call them) is called a "Check" or "Door Check."

It's designed to keep the door from opening all the way into the quarter panel and tail lights, and it also holds the door open.

Check or Door Check is what you're looking for...and not that I'm offering a part for sale - they are available on one of the really big online stores (for about $41.00; as of July of 2017)
 

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How-to With Rich said:
I know it's been a while since this thread has been replied to, but I wanted to mention that the part that keeps the rear dutch doors (or barn doors as some call them) is called a "Check" or "Door Check."

It's designed to keep the door from opening all the way into the quarter panel and tail lights, and it also holds the door open.

Check or Door Check is what you're looking for...and not that I'm offering a part for sale - they are available on one of the really big online stores (for about $41.00; as of July of 2017)
If we are going to dig up a thread from 09, might as well at least give a part number:

Chevrolet Part # 15642266 - CHECK, Door Check $10-20 at your friendly local dealer, fits all years.

How-to With Rich said:
...the rear dutch doors (or barn doors as some call them)...
And here I always thought of the dutch doors as the ones with the liftgate and the barn doors as the 2 panel/cargo doors. Now I'm all confused.
 

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AstroWill said:
How-to With Rich said:
...the rear dutch doors (or barn doors as some call them)...
And here I always thought of the dutch doors as the ones with the liftgate and the barn doors as the 2 panel/cargo doors. Now I'm all confused.
Consider the source Will. 3 post in 5 years and even the fragment of info that was given was not complete.
Barn doors: 2 swing open doors
Dutch doors: liftgate wit 2 lower doors.
 

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Well here's very effective, though not very elegant solution:

IMG_0211.JPG


IMG_0213.JPG


The old guy I bought the van from fashioned this and although there is only one for the passenger side barn door, I will make another for the driver side. The rope, unfortunately, allows the dangling piece to swing/flop around and make noise while driving, but I plan to add a little peel & stick bit of velcro to allow it to get stuck to the inside of the pillar for storage. The rope/string is important to keep you from dropping it on a dark night while loading out from a gig. The nice thing is that it is far enough above the hinge to avoid "tweaking" the hinge, as could happen by just jamming in a piece of something right near said hinge. Another benefit, is that once this little "doohickey" is in place, jostling the door from bumping, wind, etc, simply sets it more solidly in place and it won't mar the paint! I suppose if paint marring was really a worry to you, it could get a piece of cloth, felt or carpet glued to each end. FWIW, it's just a chunk of 3/4" plywood, 5 3/4" X2 1/4".
Just My $.02 & Likely Worth Even Less!
Gene
 
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