[$uperJoe]

so the threads have been noted to suggest the 2 inch body lift is a preferred method to level the truck. i understand the concept but dont quite grasp the idea of where the body will sit. most of the trucks that have a body lift have a large area of frame exposed. does anyone have any pics of this lift from a side profile view? also how much of the motor can be seen through the wheel wells?

 

[lockdoc]

This is a pic of the full subrame with 4" blocks I welded in.

These pics are of the 2" blocks you described. I personally think 1" would be better if trying to level a van. These pics show the van with 2" front and rear.

 

[$uperJoe]

lockdoc i really like how that looks. the first pic looks alot more sturdy than the plastic blocks in the later pictures. is there any more pics of that setup. how did you do that? it looks like tube cut to length and then welded to the sub frame. do you cut the original mount out and move it up? or maybe make a new one on top and use a long bolt instead. i like this alot and think i will go this route. maybe 3 inches though. this way my body will be higher to clear larger tires but most of my mass will still be lower for center of gravity reasons

 

[lockdoc]

4" X 1/4" tube. 4 X 4 X 1\4" flat stock with 2" hole in center welded to the top of the tube. Then trimmed to fit tube. Tube layed over original mount locations on frame and traced out. Cut out original 2" frame holes to 4". Welded lift tubes to frame. I then used the orignal frame bushings and bolts. Very strong and you don't have oversized bolts. Here are some thoughts thoug when going over 2". You will need an electric fan(s). The steering shaft and shifter linkage will need to be lengthened by welding in extensions. Brake lines as well but you are already changing that. Some wires will need to be longer as well. The front bumper will need new mounts and you will need a creative way to clean up the front after it is raised. I forget if it was you asking about headers before. If it was, you need to cut a notch or modify the pass side shock tower for the header.

 

[Mr_Bowtie]

More pics of that VAN^^^^^^^^^^^ please!

 

[$uperJoe]

that is way cool. thanks so much. its good to know about the fan on things over 2 inches. i want to keep the stock clutch fan. i know about the power it consumes from the engine but it will never short out in a mud puddle and leave you waiting for it to dry or worse friends to bring tools and parts

 

[lockdoc]

You need the electric fan due to the body being higher and the stock fan being low in comparison to the radiator. I have two 4 X 4 vans here with electric fans. Trust me, they have been used and abused off road. Water has never been an issue other than the mess it makes. You just have an overide switch to shut the fans off while crossing a river. Splashing through puddles was never an issue.

 

[$uperJoe]

never thought about a fan shut off switch. i usually run the two speed taurus fan when space is concerned. in my blazer its pretty close with the v8 and narrowed front end. brought the radiator back about 2 inches. actually had to notch the fan shroud to clear the water pump bolts. i have always put them on low in run and then another relay to high with a switch or when ac is on. maybe a annoying light on the dash when the fan is turned off.

is there any more pics of that green van? like a profile. i like the front view

 

[lockdoc]

I use the Taurus fan in the red van. It has an electronic controller that is variable. That means I don't need relays and it is wired to high only. I did not have to modify anything to fit.

http://www.dccontrol.com/0820.htm

 

[flybruce]

If you want to lift the front just 2 inches, can't you just dial up the tosion bar fromt suspension 2 inches? I'm told there's a 2 inch lift key for the tortion bars available from GM dealers.