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However if you do jack the motor up from the oil pan, make sure to put enough padding material between the jack and the pan so the pan will not cave in. I use a floorjack and a short piece of 2x10, and have had no problems.

Only do 1 side at a time, inserting a fresh mount in and getting it bolted up, before going to the other side. Port side is somewhat easier than starboard. Some say take the starter off first, but I have found that it is doable with the starter in place, if you have the right tools.

Get an assortment of short 3/8" extensions, a 15mm flex socket, 15mm short and deep sockets, a long handled flex ratchet, a short handled ratchet and a 15mm wrench. These will keep you from using some of the words your mother said you shouldn't say out loud.

Give yourself at least 6 to 12 inches of lift off the ground for more comfort while working under the truck. Ladies and gentlemen our captain would like to take this opportunity to welcome you aboard and to remind you to never work under your truck unless it is level and on jackstands.

Stay away from parts made in China, they do not last. Napa may still have mounts that are made in India in the $10/ea range. They seem somewhat better, stealership is likely to have Chinese at a premium price.

While you are under the truck, it may be worth your while to replace the tranny mount, because it is made of the same material as the other mounts. At least when I do the mounts, I do all three.

Good luck

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
RECox286 said:
However if you do jack the motor up from the oil pan, make sure to put enough padding material between the jack and the pan so the pan will not cave in. I use a floorjack and a short piece of 2x10, and have had no problems.

Only do 1 side at a time, inserting a fresh mount in and getting it bolted up, before going to the other side. Port side is somewhat easier than starboard. Some say take the starter off first, but I have found that it is doable with the starter in place, if you have the right tools.

Get an assortment of short 3/8" extensions, a 15mm flex socket, 15mm short and deep sockets, a long handled flex ratchet, a short handled ratchet and a 15mm wrench. These will keep you from using some of the words your mother said you shouldn't say out loud.

Give yourself at least 6 to 12 inches of lift off the ground for more comfort while working under the truck. Ladies and gentlemen our captain would like to take this opportunity to welcome you aboard and to remind you to never work under your truck unless it is level and on jackstands.

Stay away from parts made in China, they do not last. Napa may still have mounts that are made in India in the $10/ea range. They seem somewhat better, stealership is likely to have Chinese at a premium price.

While you are under the truck, it may be worth your while to replace the tranny mount, because it is made of the same material as the other mounts. At least when I do the mounts, I do all three.

Good luck

Bob
Bob,
Thanks so much! I'm lucky enough to have the van on a lift so I can stand up under it. The mounts I bought at O'Reillys were made in KOREA? Hmmm... The clerk, whom I've known for years, says they're very good ones. We'll see!
 

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I have the Korean ones on mine, they seem ok so far. No need to remove starter, but taking the passenger tire off to get it out of the way helps. The driver's side mount is easy, and like Bob stated, do the transmission mount as well.
 

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When I did my three trucks, I found I only had to jack the engine enough so that the mount would slide downward and out towards the center of the truck, so maybe 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch. (guessing) Just jack enough so that the mount slides free.

For the tranny mount, the tailshaft has to be pegged against the truck as far up as it will go.

Bob
 

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RECox286 said:
When I did my three trucks, I found I only had to jack the engine enough so that the mount would slide downward and out towards the center of the truck, so maybe 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch. (guessing) Just jack enough so that the mount slides free.

For the tranny mount, the tailshaft has to be pegged against the truck as far up as it will go.

Bob
So for the tranny you actually jack it up? I just figured it would be easy enough to remove the cross member with a couple of bolts and just support the trans. I imagine those bolts are pretty rusted though.
 

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I suppose you could remove the crossmember, but I'm just too lazy to go thru all that work. Undo all the fasteners at the tranny mount, lift the tranny and change out the mount. (Be alert to the way the parts are placed so you can keep all the tranny mount pieces in proper order.)

Bob
 

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RECox286 said:
However if you do jack the motor up from the oil pan, make sure to put enough padding material between the jack and the pan so the pan will not cave in. I use a floorjack and a short piece of 2x10, and have had no problems.

Only do 1 side at a time, inserting a fresh mount in and getting it bolted up, before going to the other side. Port side is somewhat easier than starboard. Some say take the starter off first, but I have found that it is doable with the starter in place, if you have the right tools.

Get an assortment of short 3/8" extensions, a 15mm flex socket, 15mm short and deep sockets, a long handled flex ratchet, a short handled ratchet and a 15mm wrench. These will keep you from using some of the words your mother said you shouldn't say out loud.

Give yourself at least 6 to 12 inches of lift off the ground for more comfort while working under the truck. Ladies and gentlemen our captain would like to take this opportunity to welcome you aboard and to remind you to never work under your truck unless it is level and on jackstands.

Stay away from parts made in China, they do not last. Napa may still have mounts that are made in India in the $10/ea range. They seem somewhat better, stealership is likely to have Chinese at a premium price.

While you are under the truck, it may be worth your while to replace the tranny mount, because it is made of the same material as the other mounts. At least when I do the mounts, I do all three.

Good luck

Bob
Thanks Bob :thumbup:

I'll be doing the same thing shortly and was wondering about the best way to tackle the job.
If I have to unbolt an engine mount at work I use the lift a small axle stand and a rubber block but that's on small VW 4 cylinder engines, these weigh about half of what the V6 engines in our Vans weigh.
 

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The oil pan may or may not leak after you jack it up from under it. Mine leaked- it leaked a lot. As was still leaking a lot when I got rid of it.
 

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Never said it was easy. If it was, by gum, I wouldn't be doing it myself to save all the big labor bucks. All it takes is to be smarter than the

screwdriver... IOW, get under there and get it done.

Uncle Bob
 

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Good deal. Now you are a white belt Astro mechanic, Grasshopper. Ha.

Uncle Bob
 
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